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By mga
I just saw a video on TikTok where some guy took the rear end off an ATV and bolted on a roto tiller in place of rear wheels. I wish i saved that video to post here....good thing it was 4 wheel drive...lol but, it seemed to work.
I'm not sure how he made it bolt on to the drive....
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By psychodad
Have a carb off an '07 Big Bear 400 that sat a couple of years, probably more. Friend asked me to clean it, which I did, soaking the jets and spraying out all of the ports with carb cleaner as best I could. Replaced o-rings, needle valve & seat, tweeked float level. Bike starts and idles well but doesn't want to pick up above 1/4 throttle. That would appear to be in the slide needle range. Main jet is clean, needle is clean and straight, diaphragm good. It seems I saw (in a diagram) a port that comes into the slide needle area from the side. This would be in the carb body between the main jet and the throat of the carb. I would like to soak the carb in Gunk Carb Cleaner, the gallon paint can with a little basket. Curious what Mikuni uses for bearings and seals in the throttle shaft. I'm guessing HDPE or Delrin, or maybe brass; not sure what effect Gunk would have on the polymers. Has anyone actually soaked a carb in Gunk?? First hand knowledge, please, and what effect, if any, on the carb. Pulling the throttle shaft out would be a last resort. Getting the butterfly screws out and staked back in would seem to be a nightmare.
Thanks
Jim
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By Mech
I was wondering if anyone thought it would be useful, and whether it is possible, that each post in a thread gets numbered.
I find myself in cross thread conversations, and it would be real handy to be able to refer someone to another thread, and a specific post in that thread, by number.
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