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I have a Polaris Xplorer 250 4x4. It's a great quad, ran without issue until I noticed the fuel valve was slowly dripping gas. Ordered a new one, easy enough to replace, but now it won't start! I put the old one back on to see if it was an issue with the new petcock, and it still wouldn't start (it was running fine 15 minutes earlier). Engine just cranks and cranks. Any insight would be helpful.
By Jeff Cotter
I recently purchased a 2000 polaris xplorer 400 4x4. When I bought it the starter was bad, speedometer didn't work, and it had been sitting for 5 years. I replaced the battery, and starter. Changed all fluids, and got it running correctly. Then replaced the speedometer in an attempt to make sure the awd would be available when needed. And took it out for a couple hour ride with a buddy.
It ran great that ride with no serious problems just a little carb issues which I was able to take care of on the trails. Then a couple days later I decided to take it out for a ride by myself, again ran great no issues other than a couple times it seemed to cough and then take off again. That day when I was loading it I noticed coolant dripping onto the trailer and the overflow bottle was empty.
Got home and decided to drain the counter balancer, when I did that I got about 3 cups of coolant. Im guessing that it needs new seals and all for the water pump.
My question is how difficult is it to do the water pump and should I attempt it or should I send it down the road to the polaris dealership to get it done?
By Kyle Meadows
I am 17 and I don't have lots of money but I know my way around older 2 stroke dirtbikes but my grandpa gave me this four-wheeler and I have had nothing but issues with it. I went through gas tank/lines and the oil injection has been bypassed, I have mixed gas in the tank and it is for sure getting to the carb. I have cleaned the carb to the best of my ability. I can get it to try and start for a few seconds but won't run any longer than 5 seconds with or without ether. Please help
By Micah Gafford
I'm Micah I live in southern Indiana in the Hoosier national forest. Just picked up my first ATV for extra cheap and I've gotta get it up and running from sitting in a friend's shed for a few years. It's a '95 Polaris Xplorer 400. I've had a little bit of experience with simple ATV stuff from the cheap chinese atv my in-laws bought for our kids. I don't expect nearly as many headaches but would love suggestions on what things to go through before putting in a battery, gas, and oil and trying to fire it up.
Just got over the weekend and can't even get a sputter from it starter clutch missing the top idler so it's pull rope only. Seems to have plenty of compression and it has spark when checked with plug out
I've spray starting fluid directly in carburetor and while manually opening up the choke still nothing not even trying to start. Changed the plug as well. I'm going to order the starter clutch idler and anything else bad or missing but I want to at least hear it stumble or something but I tear apart. Carburetor was nasty and I'm getting cleaned up nice. I have fuel, spark, and compression. Even tried to spray in cylinder then stick the plug back in.
With all that in mind what else can stop it from even trying
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
Just wanting to see if any one has dealt with this before. I belive its losing spark after its been shut down from running for awhile ive got to wait about an hr an it will fire back up. I'm in the process of trouble shooting now.
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