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Retainer plate behind sprocket on 1987 and prior (Model H) LT230E


Hagbard

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Looking for a DRIVE SPROCKET RETAINER PLATE for a 1987 LT230E (P/N 24751-35B01)? Good luck. 


Believe me I searched high and low, including contacting two OEM suppliers in Japan. No dice.

Ran into this problem myself. The part is no longer available, unless you get SUPER lucky on eBay.

My solution was to use the identical part from the newer ones, but you have to switch out the bearing and spacer bushing as well. Basically I took the retainer plate (46) and spacer bushing( 55) from a 160 motor I have for parts, and bought a new 6206 bearing which is the right size to match part (40) https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-30x62x16.../dp/B07XJ7H2VJ There's also a difference in thickness between the sprockets, so I added a couple 14ga. bushings as spacers 

So, referencing this parts diagram, you need to get everything from the bearing (40) on out. So, parts 40 (BEARING 09262-30084), 46 (RETAINER 24751-35B10), 47 (OIL SEAL 09283-38017), 48 (O RING 09280-70009), 54 (O RING 09280-21008), 55 (SPACER 27531-35B10), and 59 (PLATE, FRONT CHAIN GUIDE 27641-35B00).

https://www.babbittsonline.com/.../50d08495f.../transmission

 

If you need me to walk you through any of it I'd be happy to help.

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Going to need a puller to get the bearing out, (it has a grooved lip on it that sticks out, which is ultimately WHY the newer retainer plate will not fit over it) and I used a really big socket that was big enough to sit on the outer race to tap the new bearing into place. You may also want to get the proper front sprocket that goes with this setup, as I had to use a couple 14ga. bushings to shim mine.

If you want to save a little $, find a bearing #206 or 6206 from any local auto parts store. same bearing at a significantly lower price than Suzuki. Same with oil seals and o-rings. In the parts diagram, they give you the dimensional sizes of these. Just google to cross reference common part numbers.

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  • 7 months later...

I too am in need of replacing the seal and seal plate for the transmission output shaft on an H model '87 LT230.   I am assuming you were able to replace the transmission bearing without disassembling the engine?  How did you grasp the bearing with the bearing puller, did you use snap ring groove?  Finally how easy was it to extract the bearing from the case?  Thanks

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Here is what I did. I did not have to disassemble the engine.  I popped out the ring that holds the balls in place. I then used my dermal to grind a grove into the bearing.  I used loan a tool Pilot bearing puller and slide  hammer from O’Reillys

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My thanks to both of you for the solution for using the later transmission output shaft seal plate instead of the original part which is no longer available for the LT230E model H.  I should mention the original H model trans output shaft seal is also not just no longer available but is of special design and construction quite possibly manufactured just for use by Suzuki. 

I was hesitant about grinding on the transmission bearing in order to fit a pilot bearing puller.    My solution was to use a different style of puller found on Amazon than the one suggested but modification was required to make the puller fit into the snap ring groove on the original bearing.  This quite possibly rendered the puller a single use item unless I have to use it again on another LT230E.  This style of puller is sold by several sources on Amazon and from the three different style of pullers I ordered this one was the easiest to modify.   Thankfully I could take advantage of free returns which Amazon Prime to return the other pullers.

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DF2ZB4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Adjustable Two Jaw Pilot Bearing Puller Tool Carbon Steel Pump Pulley Remover Straight Type ( Size : 8" 70120mm/28"47" )

After fitting the puller to the bearing, removal of the bearing from the engine case was easy without resorting any serious application of  torque nor was heat required.   Installation of the replacement 6206 bearing required removal of the left footpeg and reverse shift lever.  This provided clear access for tapping in the new bearing.  It is very important to get the new bearing started straight which make bearing installation not only easier but also minimizes damage to whatever you are pressing the bearing into.   Normally it is a good idea to place the bearing in the freezer and heat the engine cases in the oven at 150'-200 degrees max but in this situation this is not possible nor necessary.   

I used the original H model sprocket spacer which ended being slightly shorter than what was needed with the new bearing.  To bring the sprocket out farther I used an old sprocket lock as a shim.  Keep in mind the front sprocket is supposed to be raised on one side which is supposed to mount inward against the spacer.  However if the sprocket is flipped, this can affect chain alignment as it will move the alignment of the sprocket inward.  If using a front sprocket without this raised section, you may need to add spacers to properly align the front and rear sprockets.  Also the original sprocket spacer is 40mm in diameter which is larger than 38mm found on the later and longer spacer used on subsequent models.  The later version sprocket spacer is too long and Suzuki utilized a different transmission output shaft with this spacer.  For proper seal fitment a 40mm ID X 52mm OD X 8mm seal should be used not the 38mm seal found on the later versions of the LT230E.  Though I suppose you could force use a 38mm seal onto a 40mm shaft/ spacer.   The 40mm seal is readily available but not thru Suzuki.   

I hope this helps anyone else who encounters this issue of the model H transmission seal plate/ seal being no longer available.  If your original seal plate is damaged or the seal goes bad this should bring some relief it is not the end of life for your early type LT230E.

 

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  • 4 months later...

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