04 Kodiak 450 Parts Compatibility

[alexwv1863]

Can anyone tell me if parts from either a 2000 or 2001 Kodiak 400 will fit a 04 Kodiak 450? I'm specifically needing to replace the fixed and sliding sheaves, and primary clutch and secondary clutch. I could be getting a couple names mixed up but that's the main parts currently. I'm looking on eBay and they look similar, if not identical, to what I'm needing to replace. I just don't want to buy parts and they be too small. Thanks.

[Mech]

Look the parts up on an online parts place like partzilla and they will likely have some way or where, that they will tell you what else that parts fits.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5GH-17660-00-00?ref=a5a2e51fd1b12c786666c251d29374489d129825

At the top of that listing click on the button called "clutch" and it will take you back to a parts diagram where you can check each part..

[Mech]

Down that listing a little way it tells you what else the part fits.

[alexwv1863]

Hey, thanks. I just wasn't thinking of looking it up that way. Heading to check it out now. Thanks again!

[Mech]

No trouble..  You'd better back up a couple of more clicks at the top of that listing though and check it is the right model, there were two 450 kodiaks.. 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2004

[alexwv1863]

Yea I noticed that. I'm not sure what the difference is really but mine isn't camo. I only saw those two options for a 450. I bit the bullet and ordered the parts I'm needing for the side. I just hope I made the right decision. Lol. I also hope it's all I need to get it back running. 

[Tiha]

I think I looked up that exact same thing and found the crankshaft ends were different, so in theory they will not interchange. 

I think I was going to put my 2001 400 into a blown 2004 450. 

But I did not look up the clutch parts individually. 

 

 

[alexwv1863]

I'll make an update once the parts arrive and I get them on. That way if anyone runs into this issue, maybe they'll see this and know whether or not parts from the year I got will work. I'm not sure when I'll get to work on it as I'm at Mother Natures mercy since I don't have a garage or building to work in. Hopefully it won't be long.

[Mech]

Partzilla says they will fit..  If in doubt about partzilla, we can always look the parts up and go through the same process on another parts place.. They should both agree.

[alexwv1863]

So I have a little update. I received an oil line I was needing to replace the one on it. It came in the mail today and I put it on and got to try starting the 4 wheeler. It actually started! BUT I have some other issues coming to the surface. One, it idles really high and will not go down. I'm going to check the float valve and needle. They may be sticking. Could it be anything else? Second problem: the reverse indicator button continually blinks. I read it could be caused by a loose wire or something like that. Does anyone know if it could be anything else. I'm currently waiting on more parts to come in to fix the side. Hopefully everything will be here by the first part of the week. 

[mga]

return springs good? throttle cable straight? polishing the valve slide is a good place to start, or make sure the cable isn't hanging up. maybe adjusting it for more slack? they call for about a 1/4" free play for the "choke" cable lever.

when i needed parts i'd look at two different model parts diagrams and compare part numbers to see if they were the same.

[Mech]

That works too Mga, and I've done the same for years, but it doesn't always reveal all it might.  Parts get superseded and have a new number, and some parts that fit several models all have their own number, but interchange anyway.. sometimes a different colour of finish, such as painted or chromed, have different numbers but are useable. 

[alexwv1863]

I'll take another look at the slide when I take it back off. I tried adjusting the throttle on the side of the carb. It's out probably too far right now and it didn't make a bit of difference. I printed out some info I found in the service manual so I'd have something to go by. I really wish I could find an actual repair manual. I could really use one. The service manual just doesn't have the same stuff you need to work on one  Hopefully it's an easy fix. The weather has turned nasty here again. So I'm back to waiting for a good day to work on it. 

[Mech]

I think you will find Alex that the service manual is the book you want. It has a section in it about servicing but most of it is about repairs.

Are the throttle cable and the idle speed screw both backed off Alex ?

 

 

Are the hoses attached and not blocked ?

[alexwv1863]

No, the hoses aren't blocked and everything with the carb is as it should be. I haven't got to recheck it yet because of the weather. But when I last put the carb on, I checked the lines before reattaching them and everything. I'll post again once I get to work on it.

I believe I still have one more piece I'm waiting on to get here . I haven't ever put a belt on one yet, and after looking at one of the pieces with the belt attached, I'm left with how in the world am I going to stretch it, or whatever, to get it onto the other piece!? Any tips would be appreciated. I have a feeling I'm going to have issues.

[Mech]

I'm sure the service manual will explain how to get that belt on.

And have you backed the throttle cable and the idle speed screw back off to slow that idle ? Something with the carb is not as it should be..

[alexwv1863]

I sure have. That's what level me to think something inside the carb is sticking. Either the float or maybe a piece of dirt came through when I started it and clogged something back up. That really doesn't sound right, but I do think the float is sticking. I'm going to check that first thing when I get back to working on it. 

[Mech]

If the butterfly closes right off, then it can't get air. If it is running lean it might try and make it rev higher than normal, but it can't if the butterfly is fully closed.

Are you sure the choke plunger is the right sort and right in ? That bypasses the butterfly. Some have a tapered needle on the end and some don't.

If you put a bit of clear hose on the bowl drain and then bend it up the side of the carb it will hopefully fill to the fuel level when you undo the drain screw. That will show you what the float height is and that it is working, or not. If fuel starts running out around the drain screw though then that way won't work, but it works on a few bikes.

[Mech]

Oh, and you should check the idle mixture screw hasn't fallen out.

[alexwv1863]

Ok, I'm back for more issues/questions to run by y'all. First, I got the carb issue fixed. One of the cables was unscrewed and I couldn't see it until I completely removed the tank. Now that they issue is fixed, I finally got to take it for a first test drive yesterday. Now, I have an issue with the reverse. If I get it in reverse, all it does is make a bad grinding noise like the gears are just chewing away and not engaging at all. It sounds like it's coming from the left hand side that the start ignition button is on. I haven't tore into that yet bc I'm wanting to get more opinions as to what it could be before I go tearing into something. I can take a video tomorrow if it would help. 

[Mech]

I think I'd either try adjusting the cable or rod so it goes into gear further, or disconnect the cable/rod and shift it by hand on the engine and see if it goes into gear further.

[alexwv1863]

Yesterday, I had to fix a hose and actually put the in their direct position. After I did that, I started the 4 wheeler and it started sucking air. I noticed the carb wasn't in the intake manifold boot all the way. So, I put the 4 wheeler in park. I'm saying all of this bc it's the only explanation I have for what I'm about to tell you. Got the carb on all the way. Started the 4 wheeler back up and go for a test drive. I decided to try the reverse just to see if it would work. Wouldn't you know it, it went into reverse seamlessly! The only thing I did different was actually putting it into park before starting, and not neutral. I'm really glad it's not working. Maybe someone else will have similar issues and this may help. Not sure. Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll run into some issue in the future, or with a different 4 wheeler. I'm going to start back working on the Arctic Cat I worked on two years ago. I have a hunch I may know what is the issue with it. I hope I'm right. 

[Gwbarm]

So you started it in park and them went to reverse, but if you start it in neutral it won't let you go to reverse, that's interesting.

[Mech]

I wonder if the owners manual would have anything to say about that..

Some supposed problems turn out to be designed in features..  Doesn't seem reasonable to have to use park before reverse, but who knows..

What does park do ? Lock a driveshaft somewhere ?

[alexwv1863]

I really don't know if starting it in park had anything to do with it. I just know that was the only thing I had done differently and it worked. While working on the side replacing the fixed and sliding sheaves, drive belt, etc, the drive shaft moved. I'm thinking it may have got the gears out of alignment somehow or something. I'm now anywhere near a mechanic, so I can't say what caused what. It was weird that the reverse started working after that. Who knows really. I'm just glad it's working now.