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  • 7 months later...
Posted

On some polaris there's a thing called the power control module(pcm), or something like that, and it has circuit breakers in it, and it switches the fan and various other things and I think serves as the voltage regulator on some models.

Posted (edited)

Ok, I take that back. I downloaded the manual and this thing doesn't have a PCM, it's a really basic system.

It has separate fuses or circuit breakers for various circuits, and it's not likely to have developed problems in all the circuits, or blown all the fuses, at once.

I'd be checking the battery terminals, the join where the battery leads crimp or solder into the battery terminals, and the earths.

If all of those prove to be good and making solid contact I'd disconnect the power and earth cables(because some models feed power out then earth the circuits to operate things), and I'd use either a battery and test light, or my DMM on it's continuity setting, and feed the buzzer/light power into the various fuses and test at various earths or power points for continuity.. .

The manual says the fuses are under the dash.

Edited by Mech
Posted

Found the wiring diagram that I linked and searched around; it has two ring terminals that are supposed to be on the battery side of the starter solenoid. Those two ring terminals have 6 power wires with fusible links that split off to various power wires. These two ring terminals are broken off (explains why I have no power anywhere), so next step is to try and repair these terminals and also repair the ground the owner messed with. Talking with Polaris the crappy part is if the fusible links are damaged, they do not list replacement parts for those so a harness would be needed. I would doubt that that all fusible links are bad, but the problem did start after they tried to "wash" it. I will post my findings once I start tackling it.

Posted

I am wondering on the wiring for these links, one has 4 wires the other has two. The one with 4 wires goes to start solenoid b+2 and the one with 2 wires goes to start solenoid b+1. To me it feels like the b+2 goes to the battery side of the solenoid and the other goes to the starter wire of the solenoid

Posted

Both B1 and B2 are supplying power to the circuits so they must surely both go the the start solenoids live big terminal, the one that's connected to the battery. I think the labels B1 and B2 are just for referencing them in the text parts of the wiring trouble shooting sections. I don't think they attach to different solenoid terminals. If it was as you are suspecting there then the B2 would only have power when the starter was being energised.. as far as I can see.. but.. I have read in some polaris manuals that the power goes out to components and then earths to make them operate.. It might pay to read the text relating to the start circuit and motor..  If the starter was an insulated unit, then it could be like that.. not that I've ever seen anything with a fully insulated starter though.. but hey.. I don't work on polaris.. haha.

Polaris wiring diagrams are always hard to trace, and those "splice" are a worry. I always suspect they will be crimped and prone to bad connections.. 

In that service manual there should be broken down diagrams for the various circuits so we can just look at one part of it at a time, and it should explain where the various splices and earths are on the bike.. But in my linux pdf reader it doesn't let me expand the wiring diagrams. If you are still having trouble later I'll reluctantly restart in windows and see if I can open them. I'm reluctant though because I haven't used windows in months and it will download a heap of updates and then not want to close for literally hours..

Posted
3 hours ago, fairfaxcycles said:

I would doubt that that all fusible links are bad, but the problem did start after they tried to "wash" it. I will post my findings once I start tackling it.

 Fuseable links, dont you just love them! I would suspect that the one with 4 wires is the bad one, there are generic fuseable links available. I would definately try to repair your existing wiring harness even if you have to run a wire to the fuse box and use a conventional fuse, there should be an empty slot available. I understand, i like my stuff factry also, but when it comes to replacing the entire harness i may opt out and repair it.

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