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By BenJammin
I did a compression test on my 2005 Bombardier Traxter 650 CVT and it's 75 PSI. service manual only talks about leak down test. No specification for engine compression the manual. What does 75 PSI tell me? Thank in advance.
A little history of this machine. 640 miles. Picked it up about 2 years ago, not running. Probably the computer. Tested all circuits and confirm it was the computer. Long story short, I watched a Youtube video and fixed the computer. ATV now started and runs. BUT, it tops out 20 MPH. I cleaned the carb 3 times also using a Mikuni carb kit after the second time. Slide in carb is going up and down. Only adjustment for fuel is at 1.5 turns out. NGK Sparkplug had soot on main part but brown on the electrode. Champion sparkplug is brown. I check CVT clutches and they both appear to engage like they suppose to. Checked valve clearance it's 0.00, I can't get any feeler gauges in-between. I check timing chain I believe it's in the correct position and hasn't skipped. I removed muffler plug and drilled into muffler to try and make sure it wasn't plugged.
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By Roofus
I cant seem to find what this part is called. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I must be misinterpereting the parts catalog or something? I dont see it in the rear axle section. I think it may be in the rear brake assembly section? click link to view picture.
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By rgeiser
View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV
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By kiriyaaoi
Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves. From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match. I have no idea what this would cost.
2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
#1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option. However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number, 11100-19B10, instead of 11100-19B01 like for all earlier models. What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years. Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical. Would those work as well possibly? I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on. Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
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By Drillbit
Hey all,
I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
Thanks!
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