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Similar Forum Topics
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By RGS
1989 Moto 4 YFM350ERW intermittent spark.
Quad has set for about 7 years and was running when parked. When I replaced the battery and attempted to start it had no spark.
What I have done. Followed troubleshooting in the manual.
1. Coil failed the resistance check so I replaced it. Still no spark.
2. I performed resistance checks on the stator and they all pass.
3. Found a bad rear brake stop switch and unplugged it and connected the wires in order to disable. Now I have intermittent spark. I believe that the issue is with either the stator or CDI and not sure which.
1989 seems to be a transition year for electrical. I can get new aftermarket CDI units for 87-88 and 90-94. I cannot get ones for a 89. I can get new stators for 87-89 and 90-95. Looking at the schematics the wiring on my moto is closer to the 90 ones on the ATV side of the CDI and closer to the 87-88 on the stator side of the CDI. Looking at part supply sources the stator housing is the same part # for all the years and looking at some of the stators on Amazon that have the dimensions on them both of the stators are the same size.
What I am thinking of doing is to replace the stator and CDI with a 90-95 one as these parts are all readily available. Does anyone know if this has been tried before and if there are any issues with doing this.
As a side note I also have a 1993 Moto 4 YFM350ER that has been sitting longer but it is located about 400 miles from me at this time. By doing this change in addition to being able to get parts I will also have 2 ATV’s that are the same electrically.
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By jwh
I am new to this site. Now down to business, I have been given a Kawasaki 220, tires are trashed and it has been setting for a long time. Do I need a battery in it to find neutral? I know there is a neutral switch and if I shift down(7 times????) then up one using the neutral switch I should be in Neutral. As you see I am in a learning curve here ......coments welcome.
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By Parham
My old quad needs new tires. I am having a hard time finding the OEM size 25x10-10. Anyone running more readily available 25x11-10? Any issues?
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