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By dropze13
Hi,
I am recently new to quads and want to learn about the basics and know what i need in case i buy one this coming winter, i am currently looking at quadzillas due to them being available where i live and when looking a better choice than a yamaha raptor as i have a couple friends who rebuilt the engines on them 2 or even 3 times and always had somekind of problem.
What do i need to look for when buying a quadzilla engine wise and what do i need to check before purchasing one. I heard the quadzillas are reliable and are not a bad quad overall and they do not look bad either.
Also what are typical problems with the engine and what do i need to regularly check / maintain to ensure i can ride with peace and not need to worry about anything breaking, how much do they also last in terms of miles and ride time ( i know this depends on the use, i will mostly be doing off road and some street use so around the 40-60 mark if they reach that )
And to service / maintain them what do i need before hand, what oil, what sparkplugs and anything else such as coolant for summer / winter use.
And if there is any aftermarket parts / components that i can invest in please let me know to explore my options.
Thank you very much and i appreciate the help which i may get and hope to get into the quad scene soon!
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By DarkRider
Hello there!
I'm new to the forums, but not new to the hobby. Admittedly though, I'm not super mechanically capable. But usually my contributions result in the problems I've attempted to solve via help with the forums and I will post my solutions. Or it I've solved a problem myself, I will post about it and how I solved it.
I've owned a lot of used (ever bought new) ATV's from: Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, and Polaris. From sport to 4x4, and have developed all my biased opinions of each brand.
Well that's my intro in a nutshell!
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By HuckaDuck
Was given a 1997 Bayou 220 for free that had sat in the back of a barn for almost 9 years. Owner had parked it because his kids got too big for it, and they have other bigger bikes, said when it was parked it ran fine. He gave it to me as a trade from some networking I did in his home.
First steps:
*Marvels Mystery Oil bath down the cylinder to free up the piston rings (I let sit for 24hrs)
*New battery as old one was shot from not having a charge for 8 years. I took my multimeter to the entire wiring harness and cleaned EVERY contact possible, as not even the headlights were working. After a few hours, everything electrical is now working. Headlights, green dash light, red reverse light (goes on and off with changing from reverse to neutral), and starter spinning strong (after a conversation with my mallet).
*Drained old oil (no glitter!) 2qts fresh oil with new filter.
*CDI was shot-- had zero spark and using a multimeter up the wiring harness everything was good up to the CDI—replaced with new one along with new plug wire and new plug now have excellent spark
The original carb was a total loss. I'm assuming it was parked full of fuel with the fuel switch on. It looked like they found it buried in the sand and put it on, it was so eaten and corroded my thumb went through it trying to get it apart—so new carb. I did also inspect the intake and none of what was in the carb made it into the engine, thankfully.
After oil bath, compression was still low—threw some brake cleaner down the intake and noticed smoke escaping from the head gasket—took the head off and saw the original head gasket was completely shot. Replaced that, and now compression is up to 90 from 50. I'm assuming, it'll need to go through a few heat cycles for the compression to really build back up (had the same issue with my 2000 Kodiak 400 from siting for 5yrs after a few heat cycles went to 180)
While the head was off, I did a leak test on the valves and liquid stayed, so no signs of gaps in the valves sealing. Also took a look at the piston and wall and both are in excellent shape, very clean conditions.
At this point, the bike should fire off or at least pop… but now that compression is back it's sucking air in though both the carb AND the exhaust pipe. Putting my hand on the pipe (no muffler) I can feel it sucking air in, doing the same with the back of the carb, I can feel it sucking air there as well. It isn't pushing air out anywhere.
I've checked timing and it's correct. The TDC mark on the flywheel is lined up with the spot on inspection hole. The mark on the timing gear in the head is lined up with the mark on the casting there as well, so timing is spot on. I don't believe it has a leak from the exhaust valve due to the leak test I did. I also don't believe a valve is sticking, I can see them both moving just fine when looking through the inspection holes.
In the past, I've had a bike have intake from exhaust and exhaust going out carb, but that was the timing being off, which doesn't seem to be the issue here.
Any advice on this would a big help as I'm stumped on what could be causing double air intake. Chances are it might be something simple that I'm not even thinking of.
At this point, I'm about to order a box of hair from Amazon Prime from all the head scratching going on.
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By Okiechoctaw
I recently scored a 450. The oil was thick as mud coolant looked like milk this thing is ruff most the bushing are bad. I've just changed the oil. I will be adjusting the valves next. Any advice on what I should look over or what wear items I should be replacing besides the typical fluids filters and such. I'm new to atvs. At this point I have no idea when the machine had been serviced last.
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