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Similar Forum Topics
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By joezee13
After turning off engine in neutral starter wont engage If I rock unit back and forth it engages Getting progressive worse.
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By middlebrookgt
Hi All. I introduced myself some weeks ago with my 2006 LT-F400F that needed a list of repairs including replacing the cracked generator cover. It is back together as of last night and cranks up, idles and revs high pretty well. Needs some fine tuning and stop backfiring at stop.
The big issue is it will not go into gear. I reassembled the insides with help from y’all’s posts. The transfer selector moves from H-L-R, and the foot shifter moves thru the gears and finds neutral easily enough. Before I tear it back open, the transfer selector on top does not move as far as the repair manual says. The diagram shows the shaft moving something like 40 degrees between L and H and 50+ degrees between L and R but it doesn’t move that far even though it finds the indent areas and moves well.
Could this be the problem. I aligned all the dots on the shifter gears inside and it appeared to not be binding anywhere. I do hear the gears touching when I shift like they are trying to engage, but zero movement from the ARV
It was somewhat difficult to tell whether all the parts are installed on each shaft.
Are there better/bigger photos somewhere that would allow me to be confident I included all the washers and bushings, etc? If I had any doubt on parts that were laying inside after the cover broke then I purchased replacements from online stores.
TIA for any input or feedback!! Pics are from when I first took the generator cover off.
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By Ejwill
I rebuilt the top end on my 2007 Honda Trx500fe. It ran fine right after the rebuilt. But now when I try to crank it it blows Bach through the carburetor. I held my hand over the opening for the intake air and it blew gas back on my hand. Can figure out what happened all of a sudden. It was cranking and was able to ride it running through all the gears. Now can get it to crank just blowing gas back to the air filter. Need help again. Starting to think I should have walked away from this one.
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By Need-help-with-quads
So I picked up a 1995 Yamaha warrior a while ago and it ran decent with quite a bit of power, I was able to wheelie like nobody’s business, but I noticed that the air filter box lid had bunch of holes drilled in the top and hole in the side, also the air filter itself was serving no function and there was a huge rip in it. So I got a new air box and new filter and when I installed it, the quad lost all power and acted like it was cutting out for split seconds at full throttle. For reference I think it was running rich before because it would backfire a lot so I think it’s just restricting air flow, but how would I adjust to that because I tried leaning out the carb as much as I could but it didn’t seem to do anything unless I put the other airbox lid on with the drilled holes.
any help would be much appreciated
Also even when I put the old lid on, it seemed like just the new air filter gave it enough restriction that it still wouldnt run right
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By Hagbard
Have a long story that I'll attempt to make brief. I picked up what was advertised as a 1987 LT230E with no cam or valve cover, harness dangling, no plastics, and all kinds of slop in every bushing and bearing, but hey, it was free and I love a challenge. Local guy had a couple 87 230E motors he was selling on craigslist, picked up one of those and a pisspounded DG RCM and header for $100. Went through the harness to start sorting things out and noticed a few key differences, like the stator connectors didn't mate up, one round and one square. Rubbed some of the grime off and found a VIN, Lo and behold - I have a 1990 LT160E, not a 1987 230E... By the grace of who knows what, the 230 just so happened to mount up directly to the 160 frame with no mods. Wasn't until I had broken the seal on starting to chase down the harness leads that I found out.
As it stood, advertised as a 1987 230E
After a bit of elbow grease and some eBay raiding.
Made a new seat cover and found a set of plastics, New carrier bearings, and brakes all around.
Pulled the steering and front suspension all apart and gave it some love with new bushings and tie rods
Ordered a small fortune in NOS and China parts from eBay and RockyMountain and after a couple weeks of wrenching and soldering I have a nearly complete wheeler, in pretty decent shape. Cleaned up a Mikuni carb I had laying around and mounted it up with a cone filter and a Lowe's Racing™ intake boot, and fed it some gas, primed the carb and tugged on the started rope a few times, and sure enough it belkched out some soot and fired up, ran for a couple seconds and died. No sputter, just shut off. Checked for fuel startvation, vacuum in the tank, no problems there, plenty of gas in the carb. Suspected clogged air jets, so I pulled it out of the boot and gave it a shot of ether, and it did the same thing, fired up, ran strong for 2-3 seconds and shut off. Then suspected I f*%#ed up the wiring harness somewhere, and re-traced all the leads with my newly colored wiring diagram, thanks to my kiddo's Crayola marker collection, and everything looked good. Started to suspect the CDI, solenoid, or coil might be faulty and was flipping thru the manual when a buddy stopped by with a pair of boat seats for me to reupholster for him.
He's a little bit of a savant with engines and electronics, and he got curious when I told him my predicament. Three minutes later he said "Hand me a pair of needlenose?" which he used to short the neutral switch to ground, and had me give it another tug. Fired up and ran great, no shutting off, so we deduced that the neutral switch must be at fault and after he left, I pulled it off to troubleshoot, and decided to flick the shifter a couple times with it off to see the little nubbin go around in a cricle. It didn't. I should mention at this point that I had previously changed the oil and while doing so, I took the opportunity to adjust the clutch without consulting the manual because I'm the dumbest guy I know. I did it according to the procedure I had learned for the LT185 I have, and figured the adjuster itself looked the same, they must be the same thing. I loosened the 10mm lock nut, and started turning the adjsuter screw clockwise waiting to encounter resistance, and then back it off 1/8 turn. I was really surprised when it kept turning and turning, but figured it must have been WAY out of adjustment, and went on with business. Figured I might need clutch plates at some point.
Encountered this problem, and actually read the manual and the procedure is entirely different, and I realized that I had basically "adjusted" it into oblivion. I have since drained the oil and tried to re-adjust it twice, with no luck. Anyone have any idea what I can or should do to correct the issue, or am I missing something else entirely here? (chain is off and sprocket nut is loose, if that makes any difference.) Any insight or advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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