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Similar Forum Topics
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By quadcrazy
If you are a new member, why not introduce yourself? This community thrives and grows with you and all our current members! We all want this community to grow and encourage new member registrations. That being said please help out QuadCRAZY by inviting other atv'ers to the community.
QUADCRAZY NEEDS YOU!
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By Jhb12686
Hello I appreciate the welcome into the group. I am beyond frustrated with this desperate search for parts. I have a 2013 XY power sports UTV 300. I had a catastrophic failure in my rear differential which resulted in the destruction of almost everything inside. I have located everything I need to completely redo the rear end. But I cannot find a short side axle shaft with six splines etc. it's an offset differential and one shaft is longer than the other and I need the short one. The tip of it broke off (pic). Any help in getting another shaft for this thing would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks guys
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By DayBreakJim
So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!
20230725_171507.mp4
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By Ulfthednar
Just a quick test video while I'm learning to use my gopro (really, $250 discount I couldn't pass it up).
This is from my side drive to the top of the property.
The Dog loves the runs.
No snowflakes were injured in the production of this video.
https://youtu.be/tKjBFuHCkM0
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By Hagbard
Looking for a DRIVE SPROCKET RETAINER PLATE for a 1987 LT230E (P/N 24751-35B01)? Good luck.
Believe me I searched high and low, including contacting two OEM suppliers in Japan. No dice.
Ran into this problem myself. The part is no longer available, unless you get SUPER lucky on eBay.
My solution was to use the identical part from the newer ones, but you have to switch out the bearing and spacer bushing as well. Basically I took the retainer plate (46) and spacer bushing( 55) from a 160 motor I have for parts, and bought a new 6206 bearing which is the right size to match part (40) https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-30x62x16.../dp/B07XJ7H2VJ There's also a difference in thickness between the sprockets, so I added a couple 14ga. bushings as spacers
So, referencing this parts diagram, you need to get everything from the bearing (40) on out. So, parts 40 (BEARING 09262-30084), 46 (RETAINER 24751-35B10), 47 (OIL SEAL 09283-38017), 48 (O RING 09280-70009), 54 (O RING 09280-21008), 55 (SPACER 27531-35B10), and 59 (PLATE, FRONT CHAIN GUIDE 27641-35B00).
https://www.babbittsonline.com/.../50d08495f.../transmission
If you need me to walk you through any of it I'd be happy to help.
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