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Similar Forum Topics
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By pastorjeep
Need a little help fixing a no spark issue. 2002 BT with the 2 wire ignition switch. I have 4 stators and 2 CDI's and 3 coils to test. The new stator reads 218 ohm, and .2 ohm, the one that came out of it reads 50K and .2, the other is 132 and .2. All of the coils are 0.00 ohm, and there is no way to test the CDI that I know. I have also confirmed the replacement stator pins match the factory locations. I did try to test milli-volts at the coil to see if it was getting any signal from the CDI but nope. IDEAS?
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By JustCrazyNoQuadNeeded
'Gidday. An issue I can't find discussed already - my Bear Tracker selects into 1st gear fine. Selects other forward gears fine too but all above 1st gear are slipping. Can select reverse but nothing engages/happens.
Any ideas what I might be dealing with?
Cheers, Jim.
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By Thumpinhard25
First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run. I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run. Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again. This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb. So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier? Once again, I appreciate your help.
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By fwsamm
Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
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By TimothyLindblom
Hi everyone, I’m new here and new to 4 wheelers. Just got a Yamaha bear tracker 250 and joined here to see if I could get some help.
The motor runs and it drives if it up on jackstands but if you get on and try to ride it, it starts to drive but then quits after a foot or two and dies out and won’t drive. The guy I got it from said he was running and using it shifting through all the gears great and he started it up the next day and it started this.
He told me he thought it was the U joint on the driveshaft. He said it was probably worn and needed to be replaced.
I just finished pulling the swing arm and rear end assembly to check out the U joint and there’s no play in it. It’s tight and not nearly enough play to be loose enough to not catch and go.
Any ideas on what it could actually be?
Thanks
Timothy
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