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Hoping someone will be able to help.
I have a 2006 Kawasaki Prairie 700 with twin Keihin Carbs CKVR D32. The Rear Carb is leaking out the side during cranking. it is not the float bowl overflow. It is on the opposite side of the carb from the diaphragm.
I got this bike not running and someone had already messed with it. I took the carbs apart , cleaned and rebuilt. Everything went pretty easy. It looks like it could be missing a small tube between the carbs but I have all of them listed in the service manual installed. See the pic for where it is leaking from...
Any help would be much appreciated.. Thanks.
I picked up my first ever ATV on friday. It's an 89 Big Bear. It has some cosmetic issues, but seems pretty decent mechanically. I did have trouble getting the idle tuned to the book spec of 1,300 - 1,500 RPM. I took the carb apart and cleaned it out. Somebody must have lost the spring for the pilot screw, as it's no longer in the carb. Also, I have a dual cable carb, I noticed all the IPL's show the single cable carb, but I see others on youtube had dual cable carbs. When I would adjust my idle speed screw, nothing would happen. I bottomed it out and it didn't seem to make much if any difference. When i pulled the carb apart I saw the screw doesn't even touch the linkage, it's too short. Do the two different versions have different length carb screws? I'm wondering if somebody lost the ordinal, replaced it with the IPL number for a single cable carb which is shorter, and gave up on getting the ATV to idle. If you hold the throttle just a bit to get it to the RPM range listed above, it "idles" great. Any ideas? Or any links to the dual cable IPL?
Have you guys have good luck with the aftermarket intake boots? Or is this a buy once, cry once deal? I'm guessing the OEM units last longer, but there is a huge price difference. If you have had good luck with aftermarket, where did you get it? My current boot doesn't seem to have any air leaks, but it's encased in JB weld...
I'm getting a 9th digit check sum error on the ATV when I put the VIN in. Has anybody seen this before on a Yamaha? The VIN number looks original as well as the paint around it.
A friend of mine has this Bayou 220 that started running bad and parked it a few years ago. I foolishly volunteered to take a look at it. I noticed right away the choke plunger on the carb was broken and probably the reason it was running bad but now the old gas was evaporated and like turpentine. Before i even tried to start it, i drained/ thoroughly washed the tank out, new fuel filter, new fuel lines. Blew air through the petcock etc. Changed the oil and filter and air filter and new choke plunger and cable. I disassembled the carb and rebuilt it with a kit. I cleaned the main jet with solvent and poked a wire through it to make sure it is clean.. the engine now fires right up with the choke on and dies when i take the choke off. I adjusted the air/fuel screw to about 1.5 turns out and the idle screw about 2.5 turns out. The rubber boot between the carb and head does not have any cracks in it so I don't think it is leaking air. I originally had the clip on the needle on the second from the top ring... when i moved it all the way to the bottom it starts, runs and idles really fast and will idle eeally high with the choke off but if i adjust the throttle cable and/or idle screw to a slower idle it will sometimes stall but the idle will go up and down every few seconds and when you give it gas there is a hesitation... i tried moving the clip down to rhe second from bottom and same problem... i replaced all the parts in the pic to the top right. However, there appears to be a small o ring, washer and spring left over from the kit... i did not see these get removed..... a) any idea if where these extra parts go and if i need them and b) any other ideas on why i cant get it to idle right or carb adjustment ideas?
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This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
Thanks for reading
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
i was wondering if i could get some help. i been trying to locate where the fuel and air adjustment screws are located on my 95 kodiak 400. i think i found the fuel screw.. i know where the throttle adjuster is but i cant find the air screw. or is there an air adjustment on these carbs?
I have a 94 sportsman 400. It sat for several years before i got it. I have cleaned the carb it will start and run for about 5 min then it will flood. I have torn it down and cant see anything wrong. has anyone else ran into this problem any hel would be great.
Hey I own stock why Yfz 450 and I'm just looking to slap a turbocharger on it.. I was just wondering if they're pretty compatible with these machines it is the carburetored version Yfz 450. I have all the piping hook ups / kit that's threw HURON SPEED an i also have turbo lined up for it gt 12.. I was just wondering what else I need to make this work? I know i would need to up the Jets and stuff for starter but Is it just that simple or do I need blow off valves and like some time on regulator on it or so forth? Trying get ideal what i would need
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