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recently picked up some project bikes off CL for cheap. got a honda fourtrax (the ancient 4x4 kind with the straight axle in the front as well as the rear and a back-up kick-start) plastics are crap, but my goal is to get running like a champ and patch the plastics up and sell to one of my many friends that want a reliable 4x4 for dirt cheap and doesnt care what it looks like.
so the former owner says it needs carb rebuilt, but its sat for 3+ years since so who knows. things I see: carb is missing (he gave me a box of parts along with the bike), engine turns over and feels good with kick-start, brakes need work, battery missing (That always puts me off, cause then I know most likely someone's been tampering with the electrical.
Can anyone point me to a good set of instructions for changing front diff oil on a 1987 Suzuki LT4WD? I can almost guess which bolts are drain & fill... but I've been wrong before... 😆
I found some partial posts on other forums and they linked out to dead images and whatnot. Any help appreciated.
This thing is running pretty good, got the front brakes back to life, electric start works fine, seat cover fixed up, plastics stitched back together...
BEFORE (last week):
By Jeni Lynn
2012 Rancher ES-- only when driving in 4x4 when I get to about 15-18mph there is a loud clunk in the front end and a hard downward jerk. Its almost as if its trying to downshift itself. It doesn't do it in 2 wheel drive. I have checked the angle shift sensor and applied dielectric grease to it, changed the front end differential fluid (the old still looked good and clean) checked and adjusted the clutch. Hopefully someone can give me some more ideas.
So I bought a 2001 Quad Runner 250 for my son/wife. Sorry I run a Grizzly 660.
I’ve rode it many times with no issue.
My son’s first time out, I could always hear him but feeling he ran it red line in first gear a lot.
So this is what it was doing during/end of the 2-3 hour ride:
- halfway though noticed smoke (oil) coming from front of the motor sort of under exhaust manifold. Once back at the truck, it was really noticeable. Definitely oil burning off. I’m thinking from the top end maybe.
So quick inspection:
- No leaks or seepage of oil that I could see
- I pulled the plug and it’s black but not wet
- No blue/white smoke in exhaust
- seems to still ride fine
- Engine still has plenty of oil
But now that I’m looking at it back at the house - it’s a hard/won’t start when hot. It starts right up cold no problem but once it stalls when hot, have to let it sit for 10-15 before it will start again.
It wasn’t idling before that trip so I jacked up the idle a bit as well but I think that’s a carb clean/adjustment but...
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks for any help.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....
My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires.... Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?
It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"
Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.
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Hey everyone, first post here.
Have you guys seen these Fender sets on eBay?
Their Real Tree Hydro Dipped OEM fender sets for $199.99
eBay Item number 250622898088
At first I was thinking theres got to be a catch cause these from Cheapcycleparts.com was over $600.00!
But I crossed my fingers and ordered some.
Before I found these I had tried painting my fenders didn’t work for me. Then I took them to be painted by a specialist and they did hold up much better but over time the paint still didn’t last.
I read up on the fenders and learned that the plastic composites the Stock fenders use is not good for any sort of coating. Before I got the ones off eBay I was thinking they two might lose the covering but I learned these are not the same plastics composites as the original fenders are. So I jumped for them, when I got them on the first thing I did was bend the crap out of them before I even put them on, nothing no cracking nothing!
Since, I’ve rubbed against trees etc riding not a issue yet.
Just wanted to see if anyone else had grabbed a set of these and what they thought.
In the last five years I've had the pleasure to ride what
I believe is one of the finest ATV's My '05 'Desert Edition'
Honda Rubicon. From the desert flats in 100° heat to elevations
of 10,000ft, in temps of 19° Through boulder infested dried up
river beds and wash's and a occasional run in fender deep snow
not once did I have to walk or be towed back to camp !
This has allowed me to rack up 9,200 issue free miles and the
opportunity to ride and meet with some fantastic people across
the state of Arizona and points beyond...it's been a most excellent
adventure to say the least.
At this point in my life I have come to the reality that I'm not as
young as I once was and the need for an IRS suspension was becoming
more attractive after a long day of exploring in the desert southwest.
So I'd like to present My 2009 "Desert Hawk" Edition Rincon
My goal for this unit was to have all of the thing's that made the Ruby
the ultimate (for me) ATV with just a bit more snort and a cushy ride.
With this idea and information I've read on all of the site's I visit
I do believe my goal has been accomplished !
Nothing like this can be achieved with out some help so I'd like to
give a shout out to the Staff of Coyote Honda in Avondale, AZ.
ARIZONA'S LEVEL 5 Honda Powerhouse Dealer.
Left to Right Parts Manager Matt Service Manager John, And Master Technician
Dave who kept the Ruby in top running condition since 2005.
This will be the last time I'll ever see this on the Rincon !
yes, Honda was on the verge of producting a 1987 500R ATC before the cessation on 3 wheeler preduction became apparent
Honda had produced a prototype.........with Marty Hart as the test rider, he was our link to this secret weapon Honda had on the table and the info he disclosed was interesting, and makes perfect sense, but the Trikers of today refuse to let it absorb into their thick craniums
here is the MAJOR PROBLEM
many Trikers go to great lengths to cram a 500cc engine in a 85/86 250R and the run around the planet claiming that it is exactly like the 500R that honda would've produced....
they are sorry misguided foos
Marty Hart declared that the Honda 500R ATC for 1987 was nothing like the 250R, everything was different, the gas tank was farther up, bigger frame, etc etc
the loser peeps who keep claiming that their 500 is the same as Honda's 1987 500R ATC is akin to a flunkie who crams a XL350 motor in a 1984 200x chassis and calls it exactly like a 1985 350X
spred the word,
The Minister of Mint
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