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By Rockbottom
Replaced stator now red reverse light stays on in all forward gears and when neutral light in on
When put in reverse the light goes out
any ideas how to correct
thanks ahead
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By T37Mark
HI everyone. New to this forum. I have 98 Kawasaki Bayou 400 with an apparent electrical issue. I have the Clymer manual, but I am not exactly sure where to start. The issue started a month ago and the neutral light would go on and off intermittently. Eventually it went completely off , and I thought it was a shifting issue. I took the case off and checked the clutch and all mechanical shifting components are good, so I think I eliminated that. The switch sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Last time I tried, I did hear a clicking sound near where the battery is right before the light went out. Does anyone have any ideas where to start? Hoping this is an easy fix.
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By hunky
This old boy has been coastal so lots of rust. But when I turn the key, nothing. Green neutral light works, head/tail lights work. Was running fine when I parked it for a few months.. no issues with starter. This did happen once before (last year).. not sure what overcame it.. maybe playing around with gear shifter.. but not sure if that was what did it. But doesn't seem to do anything now when I play around with it while hitting the start button.
I did take apart the handlebar mounted start button housing and looked it over. Couldn't figure anything out there, but looked the same as when I had the problem last year. Put my probes on various wires there but didn't learn anything.. not sure how it is wired.
So this first image there is a connector with 2 wires coming from forward (the male part of connector) - one blue and one blue w/ red stripe. The blue continues down to a post near where the gear shifter enters the housing. (Second image). I was wondering about that.. I opened up the connector and the 2 wires (coming from forward) show continuity when I put my probes on 'em. Thought that was weird, but maybe supposed to be like that? I turned on the key and tested for voltage but didn't find any.
I'm just unaware of how to test for anything. Would be interesting to put 12 volts to the starter, but not sure about doing that or how. The wires going in are kind of hard to get to. I suppose I could take out the starter.. but wanted to ask if there is something easier to check first.
Thanks for looking!
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By Sha35297
I have this bike in my shop for a customer. It was sunk completely under water and left running until it killed. I did a complete engine rebuild. Replaced all bearings, crank, oil pump, and various other components. Engine starts and runs great. It will shift up through all gears perfectly in automatic and in ESP, but when slowing down it gets to 3rd gear and the MIL "-" light comes on and stays on. No flashes or anything and it will not shift gears. Kill the engine and restart in ESP mode and it is able to shift to neutral and start over. Does the same thing while down shifting in ESP mode. I replaced shift angle sensor with no improvement. Checked oil pressures as per repair manual "74psi" and higher with higher RPM's. With no MIL codes to point at an issue. I am at a loss as to what else to check or replace. Has anyone else ran across this issue?
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By jhamrick75
If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
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