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By Charlesbrown
I’m looking for a top end kit for a Yamaha. I would like to see how well the engine runs before spending $6-$7 hundred on oem. Niche has complete kits from $1-$2 hundred. Anyone have experience with Niche or similar Chinese companies?
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By ATVNetwork
With the AMA Pro ATV battle wrapped up at the previous round, the final round of the 2023 ATV Motocross National Championship Series, an AMA National Championship, (ATVMX) would be for glory and the record books. View the full article
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By DayBreakJim
So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!
20230725_171507.mp4
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By ATVNetwork
An incredible weekend of racing greeted the ATV Motocross National Championship Series, an AMA National Championship, as Briarcliff MX rolled out the red carpet and welcomed the racers, vendors and fans with open arms and big smiles. View the full article
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By psychodad
Have a carb off an '07 Big Bear 400 that sat a couple of years, probably more. Friend asked me to clean it, which I did, soaking the jets and spraying out all of the ports with carb cleaner as best I could. Replaced o-rings, needle valve & seat, tweeked float level. Bike starts and idles well but doesn't want to pick up above 1/4 throttle. That would appear to be in the slide needle range. Main jet is clean, needle is clean and straight, diaphragm good. It seems I saw (in a diagram) a port that comes into the slide needle area from the side. This would be in the carb body between the main jet and the throat of the carb. I would like to soak the carb in Gunk Carb Cleaner, the gallon paint can with a little basket. Curious what Mikuni uses for bearings and seals in the throttle shaft. I'm guessing HDPE or Delrin, or maybe brass; not sure what effect Gunk would have on the polymers. Has anyone actually soaked a carb in Gunk?? First hand knowledge, please, and what effect, if any, on the carb. Pulling the throttle shaft out would be a last resort. Getting the butterfly screws out and staked back in would seem to be a nightmare.
Thanks
Jim
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