Quantcast
Jump to content


2008 Yamaha YFZ450 jetting?


Dalstdon

Recommended Posts

Hey does anybody know anything bout proper size jetting for a 2008 Yamaha YFZ450? My lil cousin bought it 2 years ago and with the new purchase price has dumped a total of $16000 on this thing! He races it locally so had to remove a bunch of stuff to make it race ready! He didn't do anything to the internal motor to add power, just put on a velocity air filter with no lid on box, scary fast plate for stock carb, and full FMF pipe. All the money invested is in suspension, tires, carbon fiber rims, etc! Somebody messed with his carb and he can't figure it out to get it running again! Our elevation is 550ft up to 1500ft. What pilot jet, main jet, and needle position sounds good to run! Dynojet kit on hand! Thanks guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an 05 with a full gytr exhaust, stock cleaner and lid on the box. I went from a 158 main,42 pilot and 1 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw to a 168 main, 45 pilot, and 2 turns out on the mixture screw when I put the exhaust on. It runs perfectly . I hope this gives you some sort of a starting point.

the 158, 42 and 1 1/2 turns was the stock setting from yamaha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Gwbarm
      I have been exploring all the options available, so many, its hard to choose. I have kind of narrowed it down to the Honda Pilot, Subaru Outback, and Kind of looking at the Outlander, although its a little small,  the new one is nice looking. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or gripes with any of these rides. I have driven Jeeps for the past 25  years and they have been great, but their price point has gotten to high. Expieriences good or bad would be helpful. Thanks!
    • By DrtyGrlKristin
      Just thought I'd start a new thread for newbies to the site!
      If you're new here, tell us who you are, where you're from and what you ride!!!
      Lets get to know each other a little better shall we?
      I'm not new to the site, obviously, but...
      I'm Kristin from Denver!!! I ride a 2008 Yamaha Rhino. She's my muddy baby!!!!!! Several aftermarket parts on her. She's good to me! We try and ride every weekend. This weekend we're off to MOAB! :woot:
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
×
×
  • Create New...