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Unfortunately it looks like I have some people in my new neighborhood paying a little too much attention to my auto and for the first time I'm feeling a need to add some security system(s) to old yeller. I think just a basic remote arm system would do, not interested at all in remote start or unlock. I'm not familiar with modern alarm systems, but here's what I 'think' I need...
- Door switches for all 5 doors (rear hatch). Probably a PITA to install but that's only an initial idea.
- 'Bump' alarm (not sure what it would be called) for if a window breaks or if something is jarred
- Geo-location function like a low track or something similar
Additionally I'd like to install possibly 2 start kill switches. I'm not sure where inline these are normally installed but my impression is that directly in line with the key ignition switch would be common. But then what if someone jumps the starter with a screwdriver...would this type of switch work in that instance? So that leads me to the idea of a second ignition kill switch which would either be wired between the battery and starter motor, or between the starter motor and ground.
And last...security lugs.
So am I over thinking this here? What's your recommendation for what I really need and maybe a good but economic alarm system that can get this done?
After an extended break between rounds along with a venue change to add to the mixture, the 2020 ATV Motocross National Championship Series, an AMA National Championship, continues to showcase some of the greatest battles the series has seen. With the season pushed further into the fall months and the cancellation of the Loretta Lynn’s round, Lake Sugar Tree in Axton Virginia would host the seventh round of racing.
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The 2020 ATV Motocross National Championship Series, an AMA National Championship, returned to competition in Georgia this past weekend with the Bulldog ATVMX National at Aonia Pass MX. This was the first round of racing for amateur riders, but the second round for the AMA Pro ATV riders, after their race at Daytona ATVSX kicked off the season.
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My first post! Been hanging around this great site for awhile and decided to join.
What I could use is repair manual that covers a 1983 Lt 125. Bought this atv while in Alaska in 86 with 3500 miles, four flat tires and no brakes, from a guy from McGrath. After 25 years, I think it is time for some brakes
Any information regarding replacing the brakes, or a repair manaul would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
I've gotten the wheel off, disassembled the brake assembly and gotten the new pads on. Now I'm trying to get the axle back into the hub, and having some trouble. The splines line up, but the axle on goes in until the end of the axle is flush with the hub. It still needs to go another two or three inches to be completely seated. I've tapped at it with a hammer, but I don't want to damage anything.
My fear is that a bearing may be worn or loose and the axle isn't centering when I try to tap it in.
Any experience/advice shared would be most helpful.
If they bore make sure they Chamfer the Ports some places don't do it
and after picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore.
Here we are all set up to run some cylinders through the first step in boring a cylinder. After the upper and lower gasket surfaces are cleaned we are ready to go.
Mounting the Cylinder.
You are seeing correctly, the cylinder is mounted upside down. This assures that the new bore is square with the cylinder base.
The Cutting Tip.
The cutting tip spins in the holder and automatically feeds itself down into the bore cutting a perfectly round hole parallel to the cylinder base. The bore is taken to within two thoundandths or so of the finished bore size using this machine. Most shops will be happy to show you their boring equipment if they have it. If all they show you is a hone, take your cylinder elsewhere. Removing large amounts of material with a hone can get the bore out of square - not cool.
On two-stroke cylinders it is necessary to chamfer the port edges. Rounding of the sharp edge prevents premature wear on the piston and ring assembly. Using a rotary burr to make the initial chamfer, and finishing it out with a sandroll, is a good way to get the proper angle and finish.
The top of the exhaust port shows a properly chamfered port. It doesn't take a lot of material removal, just enough to break the sharp edge. I prefer to do my chamfer work before I finish hone the cylinder.
What you see in this photo are cylinder hones. Most of you have seen the "spring loaded paddle hones," these are much different . These hones adjust by a screw that allows the operator to add tension as needed. Unlike a spring loaded hone, they will only cut a round circle if used properly. The cylinder's final finish and size are attained using these pieces of equipment.
The fine stones that are doing the finish work will also imbed their abrasive into the cast iron walls of the cylinder. After picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore.
You are now ready to install your new piston into the cylinder and get back to riding!
Well..i absolutely hate my job..(i have another one that i like better) ..i didnt sign a contract or anything so..can i just not go back..its a small theatre job..and if a future job asks for reverence i'll just act like that place never existed..I really hate it..they put me on horrible hours like all weekend..pay is bad and the work is bad..any suggestions? Note i have another job..i work during the week making a little more than theatre, ALOTTTT easier and can still afford to make payments..
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