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By gwares
Price: 4000 EUR
The MXU 700i LE EPS is an impressive fully automatic performance sport utility. Electronic power steering (EPS) improves driver manoeuvrability making it easy to tackle the most challenging terrain. Ground clearance and handling enhanced by our 14-inch alloy wheels with 26-inch tires. New paint and graphics for an overall sporty appearance. Euro Series safety features include an extra safe combined braking system and an anti-theft lock for the steering.
Everything works and new!
We try to capture everything in photos for you.
If you have any questions or need other photos, just ask, thanks.
Send a direct message to make an inquiry or text:
WhatsApp: +33 758 56 21 59
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By DarkRider
Hey Everybody,
I am always curious about any ATVs I haven't tried yet. I'll probably be in the market for something different soon, currently looking to sell my 05 Brute Force 750. I decided to note my favorite features of any 4x4 ATV and compile them into a list. These are all models I've had in the past, the King Quad 300 and Brute Force 750 are my current models. I'll most likely consolidate to one.
Really just wanted to get some ideas on what other people have owned in a similar range, and maybe get ideas for my idea quad (used). So far, I keep finding myself back at the 05 Yamaha Kodiak 450 or Grizzly 450. Not sure exactly what years they made which, but they seem pretty similar.
Some of the features I tend to like best (aside from durability and reliability)
Engine braking (good for hill descent) Park gear (the regular parking brakes always seem to be finicky) Mid sized engine for better fuel efficiency (Seems that anything 500 or above really starts to guzzle gas, and they fit better on narrower trails) IRS (more comfortable ride) Diff Lock (can't live without it) **Side note: I know Durability and Reliability might seem like they'd be the same, but the way I am defining them is:
Durability is how long I can go without something breaking. OR how often things break with seeming not much of a good reason. Reliability is about the on-trail experience of having everything work properly as designed (i.e. Starting up and being able to get going without much issue, the 4wd drive engages without quirks, I can park it on a hill when needing to help someone else without worrying it'll roll away, etc) My Brute Force 750 is a perfect example of why Durability and Reliability were rated so differently. With durability, I really never felt like I've had anything break on the thing that was really from riding it. Which is great in that regard. But all of the things i've had to fix on it seem more so in it's design. The infamous KEBC code on the dash that refused to go away even after completely cleaning and lubing the KEBC and confirming it functions properly. Hard starting issues. 4WD requires you to roll about 10 to 15 feet to engage, so if you get stuck in 2WD, you're in a pickle. The infamous bus connector that goes bad and stops your charging system from working. I've worked through all of these, but these are all things I'd consider reliability issues that happen really at no fault of mine as I ride it pretty gently. Writing up this list has actually put a lot into perspective for me. The King Quad 300 really is a superb quad. The inclusion of the Super Low range provides stellar engine braking down pretty much any hill you can think of, it seems like it's unmatched. It has great gas mileage, and it's been dead reliable despite being a 1994. It's got 4x4 AND Diff lock, and the semi automatic transmission also help with not letting the quad get out of control down a hill. Plus it's more fun to me and gives me a bit more to do while riding. The biggest annoyance so far has been the parking brake. No matter how much I adjust it, it just doesn't seem stay adjusted after some time. I believe this might just be flawed on these models. Also, parts availability is not the greatest on these since they don't make anything newer with any similar parts. Front axles are quite expensive, rear drive shafts go for $400 to $500 brand new, etc.
And that's where the Park gear on Yamaha's Ultramatic eliminates that issue. That's where I keep landing on the older Grizzly or Kodiak 450s. They have a park gear, IRS and Diff lock, a lot of power and they're super fun to ride (got to test one). But I'd be giving up fuel efficiency and the Super Low range. The Ultramatics still have good engine braking, but still not comparable to the Super Low on Suzuki.
With ALL that said, curious about what other people out there have had and enjoyed, and I'm just looking to get some ideas of what other smaller/mid sized quads are out there with similar features. I don't really know anything about Honda, Suzuki, or Arctic Cat models from the mid 2000's.
Curious to hear other perspectives!
Make Model Year Parking (gear/brake) Engine Braking Fuel Efficiency (mpg) IRS Diff Lock Durability (1-5) Reliability (1-5) Overall Rank (1-5) Suzuki King Quad 300 1994 Brake Super Low range 20 Yes Yes 4 4 4 Honda Rancher 350ES 2002 Brake (none?) 17.5 No No 5 5 4 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 2005 Brake KEBC Module 12.5 Yes Yes 4 2 3 Yamaha Grizzly 660 2006 Gear Ultramatic 12.5 Yes Yes 5 5 3 Yamaha Wolverine 450 2009 Gear Ultramatic 17.5 No No 4 5 3 Polaris Scrambler 4x4 4-Stroke 2002 Brake (none?) 14 No AWD 2 4 1 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4 2000 Brake (none?) 15 Yes AWD 2 4 1 -
By motox88
Anyone have bad experience with these clutch kits? Looking to get one for an 80s quad that I have.
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By Hagbard
Have a long story that I'll attempt to make brief. I picked up what was advertised as a 1987 LT230E with no cam or valve cover, harness dangling, no plastics, and all kinds of slop in every bushing and bearing, but hey, it was free and I love a challenge. Local guy had a couple 87 230E motors he was selling on craigslist, picked up one of those and a pisspounded DG RCM and header for $100. Went through the harness to start sorting things out and noticed a few key differences, like the stator connectors didn't mate up, one round and one square. Rubbed some of the grime off and found a VIN, Lo and behold - I have a 1990 LT160E, not a 1987 230E... By the grace of who knows what, the 230 just so happened to mount up directly to the 160 frame with no mods. Wasn't until I had broken the seal on starting to chase down the harness leads that I found out.
As it stood, advertised as a 1987 230E
After a bit of elbow grease and some eBay raiding.
Made a new seat cover and found a set of plastics, New carrier bearings, and brakes all around.
Pulled the steering and front suspension all apart and gave it some love with new bushings and tie rods
Ordered a small fortune in NOS and China parts from eBay and RockyMountain and after a couple weeks of wrenching and soldering I have a nearly complete wheeler, in pretty decent shape. Cleaned up a Mikuni carb I had laying around and mounted it up with a cone filter and a Lowe's Racing™ intake boot, and fed it some gas, primed the carb and tugged on the started rope a few times, and sure enough it belkched out some soot and fired up, ran for a couple seconds and died. No sputter, just shut off. Checked for fuel startvation, vacuum in the tank, no problems there, plenty of gas in the carb. Suspected clogged air jets, so I pulled it out of the boot and gave it a shot of ether, and it did the same thing, fired up, ran strong for 2-3 seconds and shut off. Then suspected I f*%#ed up the wiring harness somewhere, and re-traced all the leads with my newly colored wiring diagram, thanks to my kiddo's Crayola marker collection, and everything looked good. Started to suspect the CDI, solenoid, or coil might be faulty and was flipping thru the manual when a buddy stopped by with a pair of boat seats for me to reupholster for him.
He's a little bit of a savant with engines and electronics, and he got curious when I told him my predicament. Three minutes later he said "Hand me a pair of needlenose?" which he used to short the neutral switch to ground, and had me give it another tug. Fired up and ran great, no shutting off, so we deduced that the neutral switch must be at fault and after he left, I pulled it off to troubleshoot, and decided to flick the shifter a couple times with it off to see the little nubbin go around in a cricle. It didn't. I should mention at this point that I had previously changed the oil and while doing so, I took the opportunity to adjust the clutch without consulting the manual because I'm the dumbest guy I know. I did it according to the procedure I had learned for the LT185 I have, and figured the adjuster itself looked the same, they must be the same thing. I loosened the 10mm lock nut, and started turning the adjsuter screw clockwise waiting to encounter resistance, and then back it off 1/8 turn. I was really surprised when it kept turning and turning, but figured it must have been WAY out of adjustment, and went on with business. Figured I might need clutch plates at some point.
Encountered this problem, and actually read the manual and the procedure is entirely different, and I realized that I had basically "adjusted" it into oblivion. I have since drained the oil and tried to re-adjust it twice, with no luck. Anyone have any idea what I can or should do to correct the issue, or am I missing something else entirely here? (chain is off and sprocket nut is loose, if that makes any difference.) Any insight or advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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