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Can-Am BRP UTV Forum

Can-Am BRP UTV Side by Side Specific Discussion Topics. Technical and General Discussions. Defender, Commander, Maverick, Maverick X3 topics.

13 topics in this forum

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  1. Can-Am Maverick X3 Jump Footage + Video

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  2. Can-Am Commander Photos

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  3. Can Am Releases 2011 SxS

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  • Latest Forum Posts

    • Calling me names because you disagree with a service manual is of no help to anyone, least of all yourself. You should have just said, "Oh, my bad.  I made an easily understandable mistake." But you can't say that because you've already touted being an expert on carbs with 50 years under your belt.  How could anyone like that ever admit being wrong? I'd prefer someone who knew a little less but could admit being wrong to someone who is sure he knows it all because the one who knows how to be wrong will be right eventually while the one who knows it all will be stuck forever clinging to a fallacy for fear of looking dumb. That is the basic reason why science advances funeral by funeral.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planck's_principle The only sure impediment to truth is the conviction you already have it.
    • I answered in your other thread.."I need help with....".
    • Speed the idle up temporarily, either with the screw or on the cable, then adjust the mixture, in for leaner, out for richer, till it idles fast, then slow it down and readjust, cycle around doing those two, adjust,slow,adjust.slow, till it idles slow and even.. Replacement carbies are hardly ever really set correctly for a bike.. They often need a lot of retuning.. If you get the idle right, then you can ride it and test the performance and let us know how it is and we can suggest what to adjust next..if need be.
    • Well there goes five potential posts already Bender.. haha. Valves get dished at the top where the adjuster rubs, so using feeler gauges is not an accurate way to adjust them. If you have a dial indicator gauge (which measures movement), that could be used, but I always just set them by ear. If you have the valves closed as they should be, and lift the valves and then snap them down as hard as you can in the confined space in there, you should just be able to feel and possibly hear a tiny dull click from the inlet, and when the exhaust is right it will just make a tiny but clear click when you do it. Those will give you figures of close to 2 and 4.. Six is noisy, testing and running So almost silent and barely feelable for inlet, and definitely feelable and hearable for exhaust.. They do have a habit, if the clearances are too great, of hammering and getting clearance again in a short time. If, after setting them, you can hear them clicking, they are too loose.
    • I think those computers are pretty simple software and will probably only set that code if the sensor is actually not getting it's signal to the ecu. On modern things they do calculate and deduce bad out of range readings, and things like a key or cam being out of time, but as far as I know it's not done on those. Have a read up and you may find they do deduce things like that though. Things are improving all the time. It started and ran with the temporary ecu, so the crank key presumably is ok. There's no reason the crank sensor should short because of the dunking, and a new aftermarket gave the same code..  Have you checked/cleaned, or disconnected the kill switch and ign switch ? The manual should have a list of conditions that cause the code, and what the ecu does in response.. such as switch to base figures to limp home or shut right down.. If you read those really carefully you may get some ideas.. You sound pretty onto it.. you'll get it ..  But I'll have a read up later and have a think about it and get back to you..
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