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Okay so I bought this 1997 sazuki king quad from a guy and he had it for a few years.
He had it registered and on the trails last year but he said it bogged and backfired when he would try to drive it. so it sat for a year.
I bought it for 800 bucks and got it running that night and it ran great for a few days
But I parked it the other night and went to start it again and it was really hard to fire up and when I did it was bogging and idling high then low again.
So I took the carb out and cleaned it (ended up doing it twice because it was still doing the same thing)
Now today I have it running slightly better, but it is still like 20%
I have been looking it up and trying to figure it out but I can't find the issue, has anyone else had this problem? I'll attach a video of it running and giving some throttle
So, I found myself in the only 5' deep water hole in Moab with the King Quad. Before I could get off it swallowed water at idle and died. The river water was not very clean. I pulled the plug and pumped the water out of it with the starter. I cranked on it and it popped for a second and then was done. Towed it back to the trailer. When I got home I checked the compression and it had none. I have a factory service manual. Disassembled and found the rings stuck in the piston lands. New rings and back together. I try to start it and get a C12 code CKP - crank position sensor. Troubleshoot and find it to be shorted. Installed aftermarket CKP, still get code. Check voltage on new CKP and only get 4.5V, manual calls for 5V minimum. Pulled every connector apart on vehicle and cleaned. Have continuity from CKP sensor side of connector to ECM harness. Install a known good ECM from another 2005 KQ I have. Vehicle fires and I let it run for 10 minutes. Shut it down and put the original ECM in and get a C12 code again and won't fire. Put the known good ECM back in and get C12 and no fire. Tested both ECM's in the other KQ and runs well on both ECM's. Installed a used stator and CKP. Still get a C12 code. Check used stator, 200 ohms and 6.5 V out of the CKP at the ECM harness. Checked ground at ECM harness and it is good. Checked spark with spark plug and without, none. Checked resistance and peak voltage on coil and it is in spec.
This thing has me baffled. All of the electrical possibilities seem to check out. Might be far fetched, but could the rotor key have sheared when it shut down suddenly when the cylinder filled with water? I know rotary lawn mowers can shear the flywheel key when the blade stops suddenly from a rock or stump. If the key is sheared and the flywheel is out of time by a few degrees could this be giving the C12 code? The voltage output is correct but at the wrong crankshaft position (wrong time).
Im finishing up on the Big Bear, just tying up some loose ends and its done.
My next project I actually bought first, but the Big Bear seemed like it was more challenging so tackled it first. Now looking the Eiger over im not so Sure.
I bought this Suzuki Eiger, almost a year ago, rear wheels locked up, but it ran fairly well. It was so bad that it took 3 Big Guys to get it on my trailer. All the parts were there it ran. He wanted 600.00 and I offered him 400.00. a plus it had the original Kei Hin carb on it.
You might ask, why would you want something so ugly, it is often referred to as the ugly sister to the King Quad. I actually like the Eiger I have this one and also a 2007. I have riden them before, they are strong a true beast, I am a fairly Big Guy 6' 3" 195 pds, and it fits me good, but what I really like is the wide foot print and low center of gravity , not so easy to turn over.
So I get it home and I don't have 3 big guys to help me get it off my trailer, but I do have a John Deere, hooked it up and drug it off the trailer,an afterthought I should have used a couple of furniture moving dolly's under the rear wheels, oh well. Maybe I didn't ruin the already stuck rear end or transmission I was sure which, I was fairly sure it wasn't locked brake drums, after all that they should have popped free.
This is what I have done so far. It's off the trailer I took the drive shaft bolts loose, they were tight, had to get a 3 foot cheater, I thought they were going to break. Got them out and now I can roll it around. I checked the shifter, this is a manual shift Eiger LTF400F. Foot shifter moved didn't seem to be going to any gear, but it was hard to tell, the shifter on the tank which has Low, High, and Reverse did not move. I took it apart and oiled it up good still wouldn't move. Thought the cable was stuck so I unhooked it from the linkage and cable moved freely. Looked at the linkage closely and it was stuck. I tapped it lightly, very lightly , with small hammer and it freed up kind of, but still stiff. I could tell this side cover had been off before and put back very sloppily. This is kind of where i left off except the plastics are all off, you might have seen me working on them in another post. Nothing I have done so far has helped, my next step was to take the side cover off the engine to see what's going on in there, but installing my Granite counter top, numerous honeydews, and the big bear kind of slowed down my progress. I did determine that it wasn't the rear end, that's actually what I thought it was going to be. If anyone has any ideas, they would be appreciated.
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