Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

ShelbyGT660

2007 2X4 A-arm in 1992 Timberwolf???

Recommended Posts



These are the part numbers I found

4BD-23570-00-33 FRT LWR ARM CMPL L $129.68 $129.68

4BD-23580-00-33 FRT LWR ARM CMPL R $129.68 $129.68

4XE-F3570-10-00 FRONT LOWER ARM CO $129.68 $129.68

4XE-F3580-10-00 FRONT LOWER ARM CO $129.68 $129.68

The "3580" & "3570" are the same.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Richard Paradise
      My 1997 Beg Bear got stuck in 2nd Gear when parked on slight hill, otherwise in perfect shape. Trying to get it into neutral, by rocking it back and forth won't release out of gear.
      Any suggestions, It's my work horse and I keep it in to shape, got to get it running..
    • By Gary Ferguson
      My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck. 
      Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again. 
      Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short. 
      Here are my readings:
      Source coil- 325 ohms
      Pickup coil- 225
      Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next?
      I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!!
      Thanks,
      Gary in SC
    • By Scott Matthews
      Just picked up a 1989 Big Bear 350 for $250 CAD. Bike was running but lost crank and spark. They've installed a new coil, a couple relays, and installed a Ford starter solenoid in place of the original. Now it cranks but has no spark so they sold it to me. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike so I can test some wiring. Also any ideas as to direction to head would be nice. Lots of things have been hacked together so I know it probably wont be to easy. The ignition switch was replaced with a toggle switch, I already mentioned the Ford solenoid which 1 of the small wires was not re-installed, and a diode or something was removed from the oil temp sensor wire. I'm sure I will find more so a diagram would be amazing.
    • By Zachary Coombs
      Hello, I’m new to this forum, I have a 2007 trail boss 330 that’s been overheating after about 5 minutes of riding. No problems before it overheats from a cold start but then it backfires and loses power. The fan comes on but the temp light doesn’t. I’ve had someone clean the carburetor, I’ve replaced the spark plug and air filter and put in a new battery. I also tried cleaning the radiator with a hose, Any help is appreciated, Thanks
    • By Dave Ayoub
      Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened. 
      Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left. 
      After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
      If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power. 
      I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
      does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
      when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing. 
       
      Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking? 
       


  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By mallen14
      Looking for anybody who can point me towards a free service manual for 1998 Big Bear 350. I found the sticky thread but all the links, from 2012, no longer work. If anybody has one please let me know. Thanks
    • By Beb1041
      Looking for a download of a manual
    • By Racer944
      Hi Folks;
      Has anybody on here installed a winch on a 2003 Magnum 2x4? I am using a Cycle Country adapter plate (only one I could find), but am having a bit of trouble getting it all to fit properly, and am looking for someone that may have done this install and/or may have some pics of the installation.
      Thanks!
      Eric
    • By switch
      I have a timberwolf that I love. It sat and the carb got gel from this wonderful ethanol. I cleaned it and put a new kit in it. it always started right off. now it cranks forever before it hits and then it will not idle. set according to instructions 23mm float, 4th notch on the pin, 1 1/2 turns out on the AIS. I have tried tweeking all of these some but nothing seems to make a difference. The biggest problem is that I got it back out because the wife has claimed this bike and now it will not run for her. Any help would sure get me out of a bind.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...