ATV Help & Brand Specific Topics

Thanks for the replies guys. We've gone through the clutches and everything looks okay and is in spec. I am pretty sure that his issue is that the bike is in "limp mode" from the belt failure switch. The problem with this is that the person he bought the bike from replaced 2 of the connectors that would be used to reset the belt failure and take the bike out of "limp mode" with trailer plugs that now can't be crossed over because the other connectors are the factory plugs. Can anyone tell me what wires are being crossed over when the plugs are switched during the reset process? I feel like I should be able to jump these out to get it out of "limp mode" to see if that's what is causing his issue. If that solves his problem we can look at getting the proper connectors. I've looked through the service manual but can't clearly figure out what is taking place during the reset, and I don't want to burn something up or make the problem worse.

I have a 1990 Honda fourtrax 300 2x4 I rode the other day for 30-45 min. Switched it off and now it is completely dead.. Battery is fully charged, fuses are good . WILL NOT TURN OVER , headlights won't turn on , No neutral, reverse or oil temp lights . Electrically it is completely dead !!! I replaced the key switch and CDI box , STILL NOTHING. I bypassed the neutral safety switch and grounded it to the battery and still nothing !! I used a jumper wire on the starter Solenoid , the motor will turn over but not start . I even bypassed both fuses and straight wired it to see if I could get a neutral light or headlights still nothing . What could it be ?

Keep trying...

Mine hasnt locked up!

Hi there, I'm hoping you can help me find service manual and wiring diagram for a 2002 polaris outlaw 90. Thanks!

The plastic cover that says honda on it pulls off and the bolts are under there but be carefull not the break the tabs holding the plastic in place. The metal plate is also part of the handlebar mounting clamp.

i just got a 1986 honda trx 200 and the reverse and neutral lights don't work, i looked in the service manual and it says to remove two screws and the cover comes up and you can check the bulbs, the book does not show the two screws and i can't see them.Does anyone know how to get to the screws to check the bulbs. i will appreciate any help i can get...thank you

Yeah a spanner on the crank will tell us somethings. If the crank is totally seized then it's probably seized the big end bearing, but if it moves a tiny amount it's likely that that play is the crank moving till the conrod tries to move the piston. Draining the oil and inspecting it often shows something too. Since the spark plug has been hit then it is possible the big end or the gudgeon pin have developed play.

Interesting valves should have stopped the piston before it hit the plug did it do anything weird before it stopped running. I would probably pull the cover and inspect the timing chain first, maybe see if it will budge with a wrench on the cranknut, dont go crazy with it just move it back and fourth gently.

You need to keep posting till you can download the service manual; That tells you what work can be done with the engine in place. If you tell us the year and exactly what model it is, I or someone can check for you.. They come in chain or shaft drive, and with or without electric start, and I wouldn't be surprised if there were kick or pull start versions as well.. We need the suffix of the model number..

Has anyone had a suzuki 230 quad lock the engine up? Its a well maintained bike, it locked up when my son was riding it. Pulled the plug, it has connected with the piston. I'm thinking the con rod let go. I don't have a service manual. Does the engine need to come out to check further?

Ha.. That is a bummer.. That it's started to work ! I hate that too, all the more since I'm a mechanic. Perhaps now leave it idling and wriggle all the wires everywhere bit by bit hoping to find a short or broken wire that makes the motor die.. Wires mostly only break right where they go into the metal crimped terminal, and they break inside their insulation so you need to use long nosed pliers to gently tug on those ones, and the other place that used to be more common in the past when they used thick wires, was up near the steering head where they flex. Shorts to the frame of course.. anywhere. I'd also check the switches.. The kill in particular is prone to dirty or mud filled contacts. The mud not actually being a dirty contact problem, but when it gets wet it can short enough to cause problems. And thanks for the thanks. It's my pleasure.

Sorry for lack of response but have had little internet the last few days. I do want to thank you for all your help with this as I had a big learning curve. Not having good schematics didn't help either. It has started to work. I hate problems that just go away on their own. The fact that the pit bike CDI worked from the start leads me to believe that it is most likely one of the interlock inputs. I suspect that one of the interlock switches was flaky and when I checked it without any movement it would show good and when the motor was rotating it would come and go. If not that then a bad connection that when disconnected and reconnected. The fact that the pit bike CDI worked from the start leads me to believe that it is most likely one of the interlocks. I have not tested it by riding it as I want to go through the brakes and make sure they work good before I do as it has set so long. Stopping is always a good thing. Luckly this ATV will mostly be used on my property in Idaho and not on trails so when (not if) this problem appears again I won't be in some remote location. I also plan to take the older CDI that I purchased and that didn't work and cut the connectors off and wire up the pit bike one to have as an emergency spare. This will disable all the interlocks but should allow me to get it back to the garage easily.

View File 2019-2024 Yamaha YFZ 50 Service Manual 2019-2024 Yamaha YFZ 50 Service Manual Submitter wanrep Submitted 05/04/2025 Category Yamaha ATV  

View File 2017-2018 Yamaha YFZ 50 Service Manual 2017-2018 Yamaha YFZ 50 Service Manual YFZ05YYXH YF05RH Submitter wanrep Submitted 05/04/2025 Category Yamaha ATV  

Bikes of a certain design get released on different continents in different years, and in any particular year they release different version/spec bikes into different markets as well. Also, in motor vehicles at least, and it may not apply to quads so much, countries have trade deals in which a country will assemble vehicles but as part of the trade deal they want to use some local content, so the country supplies some components they can manufacture in their own country.. So wiring looms, seats or upholstery, starters or generators, paint jobs, carpets.. Stuff like that used to be local sometimes. When we are looking at the service manuals, we need to be sure they do apply to our market or the market the bike was intended for.. before it got re-routed to a different market.. haha. And, Yamaha are the very worst for swapping their electrics around I think anyway, without any of those market changes !..

Great reasearch Mech. I have run into this also in the past, parts on bikes that did not match service manuals, never did figure out why, i just chalked it up as factory glitches. The age of these units it still possible they were changed out with different parts.

Well it remains a mystery.. Your VIN says it's a 89 model, and when I look up parts the 89 stator has the two bullet connections. The wiring diagrams suggest that the big-bear FWW(89) might have the right stator, but when I look up parts online none of the BB have the two bullets.. The FWW(89) Big-bear wiring diagram shows what looks like your wiring according to your description.. Whether you should rely on the 89 BB specs is to be ascertained yet.. Good luck, FYI. Yamaha designate models years with the last digit of the suffix.. So the last suffix digit W is for 89, U is 88, T is 87, and 90 is A, 91 is B, 92 is D. The VIN numbers use K is for 89, J is 88, H is 87, and 90 is L, 91 is M, 92 is N. Moto-4 to BigBear.pdf

Yeah I got that, but thanks for clarifying. So it seems you must have the 90 electrics. The Vin year numbering protocol has K for 89 and L for 90. We have to watch out though when looking at yamaha model suffix designations because they use W for 89 and A for 90. It gets confusing. Anyway.. The parts say that from 90 on the cdi and stator gets shared with other Moto-4 and Bigbears. That being the case, and since the stator fits a 91 big bear, this should be the same wiring, and hopefully the specs for diagnosing would be the same. I'll have a look in a 91 bigbear manual later, but if you are downloading(one more post I think), then get the BB as wiell as the Moto-4 manual and have a look. The ignition should be the same, the wiring for the rest of the bike may vary.. not all bikes have brake lights for instance, and the start circuits vary. BigBear350-91.pdf

When I said the gray wire was missing it is the one on the stator. The one on the CDI is still there.

Will try and confirm the VIN on the frame but the title says JY43HPW05KC000565. The wire colors on the ATV side of the CDI match the 1990. The wire colors on the stator side of the CDI match the 1988 except that the 4 pin connector is missing the grey wire.

Frame JY43HPW0*KC000101 Engine 3HP-0000101 Model 1989 YFM350ER W Moto-4 JY43HPW0*LC024101 3HP-0024101 1990 YFM350ER A Moto-4 JY43HPW0*NA049101 3HP-0049101 1992 YFM350ER D Moto-4 JY43HPW0*PA059101 3HP-0059101 1993 YFM350ER E Moto-4 JY43HPW0*RA070101 3HP-0070101 1994 YFM350ER F Moto-4 JY43HPA0*SA080101 3HP-0080101 1995 YFM350ER G Moto-4

Yeah the switch is like the 90 model. So the atv's plug shape and colour should match the stator's, and they should match the wiring diagram in that pdf "output", where the 90 is the ERA. The wire colours should probably match too, but, I have followed along in here when people have used parts with the right plugs but a wire or two different coloured.

When I check my main switch in the off position the ground pair is shorted together and the power pair is open. When in the on position the ground pair is open and the power pair is shorted. Not like in the schematic for the 88 but like the one for the 90. The main switch is original. In fact the only thing that I have changed out is the coil and that is because the secondary was open on the original. This Quad has been in the family since the late 90's and had very little use when purchased. My father used it to get around our property and plow some snow in the winter so has not had rough use and has need very little other than routine maintenance sinch we have had it. Almost done with the carburetor just waiting on Amazon and then will try to get back to the electrical. We will be traveling in a couple of days so it might have to wait until I get back.

So only the last supplement in the manual has switches as you describe, shorting to earth to kill. The earlier models had the main switch killing for run and the kill switch operating earth to kill.. I also noticed that the two relays are different.. one NC and the other NO.. If the main switch wasn't original it would cause problems..