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Good work Rancher.

According to parzilla this is the correct one for 1990 350 Moto 4 it has 2 hose connections, so you would do better to find one on Ebay that comes with hoses.

Good work! Excellent you figured it out this far, not sure if the air box will work on the Moto4, you can go to Partzilla and reference the part # to see if it will fit yours, it says its for the Wolverine in your age group and if it fits all those different models it may work. A little pricy but OEM one is discontinued. You might look on Ebay for a used one that may come with all the hoses you need to connect it.The amazon one dosent come with the hose and believe me they are just as proud of those hoses.

Want to thank @Gwbarmand @Mech Next will be carb and then oil filter/oil change, and whatever other fluids (rear diff). A battery, a new relay, getting ehe lights reconnected. Edit: the airbox and filter is completely missing. If anyone has tips on that. Not that I want to spend the money, but will this fit? Air Box Filter Box Cleaner Case With Lid Cap For YAMAHA Warrior 350 Grizzly 600 1987-2004 Wolverine 350 1995-2005 https://a.co/d/aAPHLP2

Ok, I don't have a video to post yet because I made a progress / question / frustration video then, in getting that out, ah freedom of speech *pause* talking about the PO etc. The realization occured, that - if you look at my prior video you'll see it: there are two engine start/stop controls. The original Yamaha one, and one taken off a later model motorcycle or ATV, mounted on the same side of the handlebar, adjacent. It's that second one which runs underneath the tank, and did not have any matching color codes, nor was it connected to the harness. That's the one they cut into, and added crazy ROMEX to instead of proper low voltage stranded wire, then used it's START push switch, to directly electrically bridge the terminals on the starter relay (solenoid), completely bypassing the function of the solenoid, and only using it's terminals exclusively as you would use 2 isolation lugs. Like shoving a screwdriver across them every time you start the engine. The CDI is on the forward-facing side of the battery tray, in the back, near the left-rear tire, and just underneath the CDI is where the starter solenoid is supposed to go. That's those blue and black wires from the harness, that do have a connector, that connects to a mating connector terminating in stripped wires. The new start solenoid will have it's own pigtail that will plug right into the existing harness. I'll have to look around for the retainer strap to hold the solenoid on. The tabs are there. I completely tested, then disassembled the original START - STOP - HEADLIGHT assembly. The START button did not work. Somewhere in the wires before the harness, the two brown wires are combined. So if you run a continuity probe between the brown on the 4-pin terminal to the red w/white on the 3-pin, and push START, you should get continuity if the START button works. Gently disassemble everything, and on the START button, use a dental pick to get underneath the bottom of the white switch body, and then you should be able to depress the START button and it will shift back then free. Feed yourself some of the cable through the grommet. This will give you room to disassemble the START switch and clean the contacts. Cleaning the contacts provides some conductivity, but the travel was too far and the connection was so-so. Use a 50-watt soldering iron and silver doped solder, and non-corrosive flux, flux the button on the back tab of the START button contact. Apply a little solder to your iron, then touch the button briefly until you have a nice round bead covering the whole face of the contact. Use a fine file and flatten the surface down some to around 1/2mm. You need to do this because too much of a nice round projection of solder, will not give enough travel for the button. Reassemble. The START button now works every time, and travel is about half of what it was. Properly assembled, current across the START button contacts should only be enough to fire a small relay, the starter solenoid. While you have the switch assembly apart, add silicone grease to the light switch contacts and mechanism, and the ENGINE STOP slide switch. I've completely removed the second START switch assembly, but may reuse it at a later time for a horn. Unless someone knows of an ATV turn signal kit they'd recommend, the switch to mount to the handlebar.

I just had a look at some yamaha manuals and their routing diagrams aren't the best, but the side notes do describe how to fit the cables, to left or right, under or over things...

I think pay sites for manuals are generally ok. If it says ER I'd believe it. Partzilla tell you what other models a part will fit, babbits doesn't do that. You have the electrical component positions(hopefully correct) but you don't have a routeing diagram for the loom.. that might help. The routing diagram and the electrical component positions should solve most of it, then you start looking at wiring diagrams for pairs or triple wires of the colours you have left over to see what they might be. If the positions or the routing don't seem right/possible then you might need a different manual, but there should be a manual that has that right. That sort of thing gets carried over from year to year for a long time.

Yes the information is all there all the componets and part numbers,which is a great help, what i was referring to is, i would like to see a drawing or photo of the bike frame in the manual of exactly where the componets are located on the frame , that would be very handy when you get one that the previous owners have yanked everything off, and thats usually what i get. I guess you cant have everything!

1 Cdi Unit Assembly 3HN-85540-00-00 2 Screw, Pan Head 98580-06020-00 $5.59 2 3 Washer, Spring 92995-06100-00 $2.95 2 4 .Washer, Plate 92990-06600-00 $2.95 2 5 Reverse Switch Assembly 24W-82540-00-00 4GY-82540-10-00 $27.19 2 6 .Gasket 90430-10171-00 $2.95 2 7 Ignition Coil Assembly 1UY-82310-41-00 $130.39 1 8 Bolt 90109-06723-00 $5.59 1 9 Bolt 97011-06020-00 97017-06020-00 $2.95 1 10 Washer, Spring 92995-06100-00 $2.95 1 11 Plug Cap Assy 1UY-82370-20-00 3NS-82370-00-00 $27.19 1 12 Battery BTG-GM14A-Z4-A0 CB1-4A200-00-00 13 Wire, Plus Lead 1YW-82115-00-00 $35.19 1 14 Cover, Battery 24W-82129-00-00 15 Damper, Locating 3 5X2-24183-00-00 5Y1-82122-00-00 $5.59 1 16 Pad, Battery 371-82121-00-00 $6.39 3 17 Rectifier/Reg Assembly 1YW-81960-A0-00 18 Bolt, Hexagon 97313-06016-00 97D95-06016-00 $2.95 2 19 Washer, Spring 92995-06100-00 $2.95 2 20 Washer 92901-06600-00 92990-06600-00 $2.95 2 21 Main Switch Assembly 2FJ-82510-02-00 2FJ-82510-09-00 $68.79 1 22 . Cap, Key 24W-82579-00-00 $23.19 1 23 Label 29U-83585-10-00 24 Starter Relay Assy (Ms5d-611) 4KD-81940-00-00 $83.99 1 25 Nut 95380-06700-00 $5.59 2 26 Washer, Spring 92995-06100-00 $2.95 2 27 Pilot Light Assembly 2HT-83530-00-00 28 . Bulb, Meter 12V 3.4W 4G1-84744-00-00 4G1-84744-00-XX 29 Hose (L540) 90445-082F3-00 90445-084J0-00 $13.59 1 30 Fuse Holder Assembly 59V-82150-00-00 2NL-82150-00-00 31 . .Fuse (30A) 705-82151-00-00 705-82151-01-00 $3.84 2 32 Wire, Lead 2JX-82541-00-00 33 Wire Harness Assembly 2VA-82590-10-00 34 Wire, Lead 1YW-82507-00-00 35 Relay Assembly 1UY-81950-91-00 1UY-81950-92-00 $54.39 1 36 Relay Assy (Aca12115-1) 29U-81950-93-00 $55.99 1 37 Relay Assy (Aca12115-1) 29U-81950-93-00 $55.99 1 38 Wire, Lead 59V-82541-00-00 39 Band, Switch Cord 437-83936-01-00 $5.59 4 40 Band, Switch Cord 437-83936-11-00 $3.19 3 41 Clamp 90464-14117-00 90464-15152-00 $3.99 1 42 Checker, Pilot Lamp 38W-85774-00-00 https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038943f870021f60a0a02f/electrical-1#

@Mech There are several links to pay sites which claim to have the 1987-1990 YFM350ER service manual, and the price varies from $10 to $25+. No way to tell if that's really it, or what kind of guarantee if it isn't what they say it is. I don't have more money right now because I spent what I had to get the ATV.

The manufacturers service manual, well the japenese ones anyway, always have all the information you need. It's best to read right through the manual familiarising yourself with the sections and what's where. In this case the manual will probably have a diagram showing the main electrical components position on the bike. It will have a routing diagram showing exactly where to route each branch off the main loom. The routing diagrams are often in the form of plans and side views and it takes a while studying them to get the three dimensional view. And there should be a wiring diagram showing wires and plugs. The three different diagrams are likely in different sections of the manual. The real trouble here is that we don't have the exact manual. It should be possible to find a wiring diagram that will have the same components and wire routing, but probably different colours and plugs. I'd refer to partzilla to see what other models the voltage regulator, stator and cdi all interchange with. If there's a model that shares all those parts, then it likely shares the kill and key switch as well, and the wiring diagram will probably work with your bike.

I understand your frustration, i looked for the same harness layout when i was rewiring the Big Bear, never found exactly what i was looking for. The closest thing that helps somewhat, is the cable routing section of the manual. It shows a diagram of the frame and where certain componets are located. A little help but not much. What i ended up doing was studying the wiring diagrams to the point of having them memorized, wire colors components and wiring, using the cable routing diagram as a guide, it does show a few electrical components there. Looked at all the U tubes i could find where they were working on the harness and just pieced all this information together to figure it out. I have not used Clymer or Haynes much, but sometimes they have more practical information there and maybe a diagram, that will help, im not sure. I looked a little havent really found a manual for yours yet, mostly i find the one for the 200, yours is the 350, right. So i am still looking i will let you know what i find.

Does anyone (like a CLYMER etc) have a practical layout guide for the harness? As if you had no other vehicles to look at, and someone gave you a harness, and the vehicle, where would it go? How would it route? I kinda agree with @Gwbarm but am having trouble finding something that shows practical wire routing.

Good you found the leak, Glad to help!

great news just found the leak on carburetor and again thank you all for your precious help, bob

👍

I was thinking that is where they went to, so it appears that part of the harness is missing, they should continue back to the soloenoid and probably end up at the CDI for safety precautions, and probably your 2 relays are missing, i havent seen them in any of your photos or the CDI, is it there or also missing. They might have deleted them and wired it direct with the romex.

Good you had a drain, the one i was working on didnt have a crancase drain, and took forever to get it out with a syringe.

Drained the oil out of crankcase and it rolls over now. Just need to clean the carb and she if she fires up. I'll provide an update within the next week.

The 3-pin and 4-pin plugs go into what I thought was the main harness. But following them around, they all go directly to the START switch, engine stop, and mystery switch above those in the video below: The 3-pin goes to start/stop. The 4-pin goes to a black slide switch above those that is unlabelled. I'm sure any owner is going to know what that switch is for, and I'll watch that 1988 video @Gwbarm posted now.

Thank you guys for the input i will try removing the carburetor to verify it and get back Bob

That's the problem they just won't fit anymore I'm so lost as to what I'm doing wrong I've already lossened it all the way and it's the actual "hydraulic" height that's to high I'll grab some pictures tomorrow

It sounds like you adjusted them too much , the shocks are designed to be able to adjust on the bike by clicking up to the next step, they really need to be attached to be able to do that, not familiar with your bike , but they are usually fairly easy to adjust on the bike by turning it. You said when you put them on they fit but were out of adjustment, were they too high or too low. If you get them back to the way they were and reattach to the bike and see if you can adjust to the right height.

This videa may help a little with your wiring:

Rancher, you could use the continuity setting on a meter and test from one cut end, to the end of any other wires the same colour, anywhere on the loom. That would give a good idea about what the cut wire's meant to be for.