That oil ring will be plenty enough reason for it to smoke. You could put a compression ring in the bore and measure it's gap top, middle and bottom of the bore and compare the measurements. The gap will change at about three times the bore does, so if it reads as a three thou gap at the bottom and around nine thou just below the top, if means it has about three thou taper. If the bore is good, and the ring grooves in the piston seem good, I'd check the rod for sideways lean to try and detect any play in the bearings, then get a new ring set and slap it back together. I'd do a valve grind and check the guides and fit new seals at the same time and it will probably go for years. When you are taking the piston off or on, and if possible before you even lift the cylinder off the piston, it's a good idea to slip a rag in around the rod so no broken ring or circlip can drop into the sump. Same when putting the piston circlips in, make sure to have a rag around the rod.. It's simple to drop a circlip and then it's a whole heap of trouble.. haha.

Thank you very much, this will be very helpful.I did find the solution before I accessed the manual but not before I exposed the wiring and traced each wire individually. The problem was at the kill switch for the engine.I now have spark and was able to start and run the engine after I cleaned the carb.Thanks for your help, gwbarn