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Still cannot get 3 of the 4 mounting bolts off. They broke the nuts loose where you can't get at them, and too hard to chisel. Will have to have them torched off. Been out of the country for awhile and will get back to it when I return in a couple of weeks. Just keeping you posted.

I have a 2005 Arctic Cat 500 (Kawasaki engine) that I leave sit for about 7 months a year, as I am elsewhere. It, at first, won't start. This has been typical for about 6 years. Then, I pull the plug to make sure I have spark. At one time, I thought the fuel pump was at fault, so I replaced it (no difference). I replaced all the fuel and vent lines, so I could see if fuel was getting to the fuel pump and on to the carb. What I found, was, even though fuel was traveling to the carb, it apparently was not priming the carb enough, or at all, to allow it to start. The solution, now for first startup, has been to take the line off the fuel pump to the carb and blow fuel down it. Works every time now. Another thing you could do, is blow on the line from the fuel pump back to the fuel tank. It could be that, after sitting for awhile, the fuel filter in the tank is clogged enough to sufficiently dis-allow fuel flow to the fuel pump. Also, beware of cracked and aged fuel and air lines. They definitely will prevent starting and/or cause erratic running problems, which was the main reason I replaced all my lines. Let me know if you have luck.

As usual, the bolts which fasten the winch to the frame let go inside the winch housing (one turned out) and so I'll have to chisel them off and drill them out once I get the winch motor off. This will take some time, but, I will keep you posted.

There is one blue wire (-) and one yellow wire (+) to the winch. I ran 12v directly to the terminals on the winch one at a time and sparks flew. It melted the fuse right into the socket. Got one leg out, the other is welded in. Also melted the top of the socket where the fuses go in, but none of the other fuses were damaged. Would it be that the winch is corroded tight? It has never been in water and seems to be a tightly sealed unit.

Okay, thanks, I'll check that out tomorrow. It's a Warn winch, don't know which model because all it has for a label (that I can see) is Arctic Cat. I suspect it is a 2000 or 2500. Yes, 3 wires coming out of the toggle switch (one probably connecting to the ignition sw), but 3 coming to the solenoid. Looks like blue, black/white, and green. From what l can see with a light, they appear to be embedded into the solenoid as opposed to connection. But am not sure. There are 8 studs on the solenoid and 4 appear to have plastic caps on them, so I'll have to pry them off to see if they are connectors or what. Winch_Part Numbers_Arctic-Cat-Parts-Manual-2005-ATV-500-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-4X4-FIS-LE-GREEN.pdf

Arctic Cat 2005 500 auto I also have a winch not working. I have 12 volts to the solenoid, but before blaming the solenoid (are these repairable, can they be taken apart?) I want to test the winch terminals with 12 volts. Question is do you put 12+ on the yellow terminal and 12- to the blue wire terminal? And can you go 12+ to either terminal and the other to frame ground to reverse the direction?

I checked my service manual, but it's unclear. I'll try a flashlight.

I need to get at the wiring in back of the instrument panel (where the LED readout is). I have had every locking fastener removed, the ignition switch removed, and still cannot see what is preventing it from coming off. Is there a service manual somewhere with step by step removal instructions or can someone tell me what is preventing removal? Thanks.

UPDATE: Problem solved. I decided I would start all over with the carb air adjust setting. Turned it all the way in then backed off according to the book 2 1/4 turns. I had originally assumed the problem to be that the carb needed more air, so I had been turning it out 1/8 turn at a test. WRONG. This time I started turning the screw in 1/4 turn (to 2 turns out from 2 1/4). It worked right off. All this time the carb was getting too much air in the mix. It works fine now, no lugging on hills any more. The reason I kept thinking it was a "air problem" is because a few years back I had taken the snorkels off and immediately ran into a poor running situation like this where it was getting too much air. Then, however it didn't want to run well at any speed, so I rerouted the snorkels underneath the hood (out of the way now so I can carry a tray on the front) effectively restricting the air intake, and it worked fine after. This new problem probably started with air leaks in the old gas and vent hoses and I had started compensating with other adjustments. Now, I have all new vent and gas hoses. Thank you everyone for trying to help me, and you have given me more experience, especially in how the automatic shifting works. Larry

Never by me (8 years). Suckers are hard to get at, have to take the whole front off, plastic, racks, just to see the covers. And all bolts are rusted tight.

Thanks, I'll play with that for awhile. Long process, as I can only get at it with a short screwdriver when the exhaust pipe is cold.

The only adjustment on the outside of the carb is the air setting. The manual does not say which way increases air or decreases. Do you know, if I turn the screw out, am I increasing air or decreasing air?

I got the clutch cover off and everything looks fine. I started the engine and revved it up...no hesitation, no problem, the belt goes up and down smoothly as it should. I cleaned the cover and put it back on. I'll try it again tomorrow, but expect the same lugging problem. Still seems like it's a gas/air problem. Any thoughts?

I spent all afternoon just getting the foot support and foot brake off. Everything rusted tight. Needed some heat and had to hacksaw one bolt. But, all ready for tomorrow, to take the clutch cover off and see what it looks like.