DirtDemon

How are things goin?

Welcome to QC PissAnt, that is a swell avatar.

Worn piston/rings, worn cylinder bore, or leaky/worn valves, seals, or guides can all allow oil to leak into the cylinder. Most likely you just need rebuild that motor. The more you can afford to replace, the better.

The only way that I know fuel can get into the crankcase on an EFI machine is blow by. Worn rings, damaged cylinder wall, or a damaged piston will allow compression to leak by the piston and into the crankcase. In a machine as new as yours, this is not common, but still possible. Using the wrong oil, not changing the oil, not cleaning the air filter are all things that can speed up engine wear. If the machine has been neglected, things can wear down pretty quickly. I would start by doing as Ajmboy suggested, do a compression test.

I really don't have much experience dealing with belt drive systems, but I would think that a re-located vent for the drive belt cover would be good to have. If you get water in there, it certainly wouldn't help things. If you really like that particular kit, you could always make your own breather for that part. I would think it would be pretty simple.

Double vision is a pain, I hope that gets better for her. I got flash burn so bad at work that I was seeing double out of my right eye for two days, I had to close that eye so I could see clearly. Please let the mrs. know I feel for her, I can't imagine how much it would suck to have that go on for so long.

I went to that last year, met Craig, cleaned some stuff up, and won some stuff in the raffle too. It was a great time.

It comes off there somehow, you may need to get a look at a repair manual to see how it is done. Maybe try calling a dealer tech or visiting your local dealership, I'm sure they will know how to get it off.

Have you tried adjusting the air screws? Is this a problem that started with the addition of the mods? Did it sit for a long period of time before this problem started.

I use a large syringe with a hose attatched to the end. Put the hose over the bleeder bolt, while pulling lightly on the syringe plunger, loosen the bleeder bleeder bolt, pull the plunger until you stop seeing air bubbles, shut the bleeder. Everything has to fit with an air tight seal, and don't run the master cylinder out of fluid, or air will just keep getting in. I have found this to work much quicker than the conventional method. You can buy brake bleed kits that do the same thing, and are easier to use than my home made unit.

Where did you find out that info? It will probably work, but you want to be 100% sure. The '95 axle is a bit more expensive, so I get why you would want to go that route. Hope everything works out for you.

Sometimes I don't know whether to be glad that a problem turned out to be so simple, or mad at myself for not seeing it sooner. Glad to hear you are all fixed up.

The suggestion you got about the fuel valve leaking fuel into the intake vacuum is a good thought. You can test that by removing the vacuum line from the petcock, block the nipple on the petckock to keep it sealed, block the line so you don't have a vacuum leak and turn the peacock to the "prime" position to let fuel through. If the machine runs ok like this, then a bad peacock would appear to be the problem. Good luck.

I have noticed that alot of very knowledgeable members here only participate in certain branded forums. For example, if a member is a Yamaha guy, he may only reply to posts in Yamaha forums, or even only in posts involving a specific model. I would like to urge any members here who like offering help to others to go beyond participating only in specific forums. Fact is, no matter what make or model the ATV, the mechanical principals that make these machines function are pretty much the same from one machine to another. Sure, it is nice to have people who know alot of things about one particular machine, but just because you are a Honda or Kawasaki guy, doesn't mean that a Suzuki or Yamaha owner couldn't benefit from your input. Don't be afraid to try and offer help to someone who is having problems with a machine you know little about, motors are motors, gears are gears, if you are mechanically inclined, you may be able to help more than you think.

Thanks, that's a good idea. I ordered extra screws from some Yamaha parts site, just waiting for them to come in. I don't even know if I have a local hardware store except for a Home Depot.....

Home Depot is where I got the screws for my carbs. They don't have a huge selection of metric stuff, but they did have Allen head socket cap screws that match the threads on my float bowl screws. The heads are kind of small, so it is best to use washers with them. I think they are 4mm screws with a .7 thread pitch, basically a common 4mm machine screw. If you have problems again with the new phillips screws you have coming, or you just want to upgrade anyway, I would recommend this to anyone who has to do frequent jetting changes. The allen head screws are so much easier to deal with than the phillips. I think that the persons who invented phillips and flat-head screws should be exiled to a poor war torn counrty for all the frustration they have caused me. This Allen fellow who so kindly gave us the allen head screw should have a statue built in his image.

I am hear to learn as much as help, I can pretty much diagnose and repair anything on an Arctic Cat, no problem to big or to small.

But I am trying to expand the dealer service department to do more aftermarket sales and installs.

Things Like clutch work, pipes and mufflers, snorkels, radiator/oil cooler relocation kits and for course tires and wheels.

I have already done several snorkel jobs on customers Arctic Cats using factory snorkel parts and all turned out perfect.

Lift kits, tires a wheels are no big deal.

The area I need to more knowledge is in the area of pipes, muffles and tuners.

I'm familiar with the Power Commander line, I have one on my Harley. A Power Commander V with the Auto Tune. But it is a pretty much no tune install. Start with a base map and let the auto tune do its job.

Feel free to browse the branded forums and read the technical help posts, we only have one or two other users that are really familiar with AC machines, Swampcat being the one I have noticed that can best offer help to alot of the AC questions. I do my best to try and help people having problems with all types of machines, but my knowledge is pretty general for the most part, I only have machine specific experience with a few different models. An actual tech can see signs of machine typical problems that most of us don't know about. Raptor 8 is a Honda and Yamaha tech, and he knows all kinds of typical problems that these machines have. Any help you can offer to the forum would be very welcome. Anyone with your amount of knowledge could be helpful to people having problems with other machine makes as well, so feel free to browse through all the forums. At the same time, if you have any questions, we would be glad to share with you any knowledge we have. I think we can all learn alot from each other.

I'm pretty sure we are talking about the same screw, it is commonly called the idle circuit, pilot circuit or low speed circuit. It controls air/fuel mix at an idle and at initial throttle opening. There is a separate screw for idle adjustment, but it doesn't change the fuel mix, it just opens the throttle a bit. If you are still that rich even if you have the pilot screw that far in, then I would agree that you have a choke problem. Usually if turning the choke on or off has little to no affect, that means there is something wrong with the choke. Most motorcylce or ATV carbs do not use a true "choke" system which simply restricts airflow through the carb, hence the term "choke". Most of these carbs use what is called an "enrichener circuit" opening this circuit increases the amount of fuel that is available at an idle position without letting extra air in. It's affect is similar to richening the pilot circuit, but you don't have to make a permanent adjustment, switching the choke on and off is essentially richening or leaning out the pilot circuit instantly. If the enrichener is not blocking the circuit properly in the off position, it will act as if the "choke" is on even if the switch is turned off.

Another question, was this problem occuring before the carb was rebuilt, or did it start to occur afterwards. This sounds stupid, but I have seen it happen before. I had a friend who was having carb problems, so he took the carb apart, replaced some gaskets, cleaned it out, and put it back together. The machine would start and idle fine, but as soon as you touched the throttle, it would begin to run extremely rich, and would only clear up when you opened the throttle completely, and would backfire when you let the throttle off. He gave up and brought it to me, he said he wanted to check the vavles, so I did that first, they were fine. So I took the carb back apart to see if he put something together wrong or lost a part etc... As soon as I pulled the top of the carb apart, I noticed the problem immediately, he had put the jet needle in upside down. When the throttle was closed, the top of the needle was just long enough to keep the needle jet and main jet closed, but as soon as the throttle was cracked even just a bit, the needle and main jets were wide open. With this circuit wide open, fuel flows into the venturi at the rate needed to sustain a full throttle application, obviously this is going to make things way too rich. I flipped the needle back over put everything back together and it ran perfectly. My friend was pretty irritated with himself, he is pretty good with machines, but everyone has a brain fart from time to time. Just something to check.

You also asked if a clogged muffler could be your problem, I would guess that it isn't your problem, but I can't rule it out. It wouldn't hurt to make sure that things are clear. I do think that it is possible that a timing issue, or improperly adjusted vavles could be giving you problems. I would focus on the choke first, if it turns out not to be the problem, at least you will have ruled it out.

Thanks, I added that info to your thread title to help grab the attention of Warrior owners.

It is very important to keep on top of those valves with these new hi-po fourstrokes. Those valves get too tight and it could cost alot of money. I check mine every month, sometimes twice a month if I ride alot.

May I suggest some socket cap allen head screws from your local hardware store? The first thing I do to any of my carbs is replace the float bowl screws. The allen head screws don't strip. BTW, that Grizz looks like it is in good shape, nice score.

It is nice to see another mechanic on the forum, have a seat, make yourself at home, and stay a while.

You will need to have the cylinder bored to 87mm to fit that piston, and I think you have to use top end gaskets made for an oversized piston.

Have the battery load tested, it is free at most auto parts stores or repair shops. As far as an easy way to get to the plug, there is none, you need to take the tank off, it literally sits right on top of the plug. There are instructions on how to remove the tank in the owners manual. It is a pain, but after you have done it a few times, it becomes routine. Since it sounds like you have never been in there, you will want to pop the vavle cover off and check the valves while you have the tank off. If the valves are too tight, that could be causing your starting problem too. That usually is a progressive issue, the machine becomes hard to start before it stops starting completely, but I wouldn't rule it out. Either way, I'm sure it is time to check your valves anyway. Better safe than sorry.

well my wall is fine. and i set the timing a few times and i just got new valves. and sorry for putting up so many postes

Don't get me wrong, please feel free to post as much as you want, just don't start a whole new thread when you already have one going on the subject. If you have any questions, or want a suggestion on anything that relates to your problem here, post 100 times if you want. I don't want you to think there is such a thing as posting too much, if you have a question or something to say, feel free to post it.

When you say the wall is fine, do you mean that it appears fine? or did you have the cylinder measured with a micrometer to see if it is worn. You got new valves, but did you get a valve grind? New valves in an old head with worn valve seats may not seal too well. Did you check the valve adjustment? Replacing old valves with new will most likely change the valve clearance, if they are too tight, they won't close all the way and compression will leak by. Id say that the most likely cause is that the cylinder has become too large for a standard piston or your valves aren't closing because they aren't adjusted properly.

You should be fine on premium pump gas, just use good gas. I imagine that motor would be good on pump gas up to about 11.5:1 or so. Depending on how the engine is built, more modern motors can run up around 13:1 before you really need high octane fuel, that is pretty much the limit though, many people run race gas or a mix of race and pump gas at that point.