DirtDemon

Most jet kits will come with an assortment of main jets and a needle or two, maybe a few other things, but I think they only have jets that are larger than stock. If you buy individual jets, you can get them in all kinds of sizes, bigger or smaller. If you need a smaller main, then I would just buy the next couple sizes smaller than what you have. If you do any mods, or add an exhuast, then a jet kit may be of some use to you. Just curious, why do you need a smaller main jet?

No doubt, what happened over there is just awful. I would think that there is a warehouse full of parts right here in the states. I don't think it should have to be shipped from Japan. I am guessing that it is his CDI since he said it would start if he heated it up. I just though I would point that out, it would be nice if he only had to buy a pickup instead of a CDI.

I would start by checking things like vavle clearance, compression, make sure you have a good plug and a clean air filter. If it has been sitting for a while, you might drain the fuel and put new gas in it. Also, when you cleaned the carb, did you take it completely apart and clean every hole, and make sure the jets were clear? I would run through all of these things, your problems could be related to any of them. Good luck.

kf9nb - The CDI controlls the timing curve, so I don't think a unit from a Ford will work too well unless it happens to have a similar timing curve, and I would be willing to bet that it doesn't. Also, you mentioned that you get spark when you let off the start button, I know for a fact that a bad pickup coil will cause the same problem. I can't remember if you have replaced yours or not, but it would be cheaper than a CDI. Although the fact that your machine starts if you heat the CDI, does not relate to the pickup coil so... I just thought I would point out that a bad pickup will do that. A dealer is always going to have higher prices than online stores, dealer markup is usually around 30% or so. I always buy any remotely expensive O.E.M. parts from Servive Honda or Babbits Online myself.

Anyhow, good luck to both of you guys, hope you can get your machines up and running soon. Thanks for checking in and keeping us up to date.

Could be the linkage is out of adjustment or it could be an internal tranny problem, bent shift fork, or something of that nature. I would try to adjust the linkage first and see if that helps at all. Also, inspect the entire gearshift assembly for loose or worn parts. If you can't get it fixed from the outside, you may end up having to split the gear case and look inside for the problem. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. Good luck.

That sounds like a perfect engine for your project. What are you going to use for suspension?

I have not been riding out there, I have heard there are some good spots out in that area.

Doesn't seem right that the pipe runs so close to those wires. I'm thinking there may be a bad bend in the pipe somewhere causing the tight fit, or something was put on incorrectly. I would call the manufacturer or retailer that sold you the pipe and see what they have to say, they may need to send out a new part for you.

When you say you have a voltage drop, do you mean that you actually did the test and you are losing 9.6 to 10.3 volts when you hit the start button?, or do you mean that you are getting a reading of 9.6 to 10.3 volts from the battery? If you are getting an actuall drop that big doing the voltage drop test, then you have a bad connection or bad cables, if you are only reading that voltage at the battery, then you have weak batteries. Make sure your batteries are fully charged, then see how the starter works.

That sucks, if you are cabable and/or willing, you may want to do the engine rebuild yourself or maybe have a trusted friend do it. If you have the dealer fix it, there is no telling how much it could end up costing. Good luck with everything, I hope you can get it fixed without giving up your first born.

You might try e-bay for a decent used carb or possibly even a carb kit, also, you may try going through some online parts retailers to see if they have the parts handy. Good luck.

I don't know how it works for other ATVs, but I tried the Pro-tec lid for my LT-R, and it was junk. K&N makes a true filter lid, it is called a power lid, it is much better than the Pro-tec lid. I personally run a stock lid with the top cut out and a piece of Outerwears material set in place with Permatex RTV Red. It works fairly well to keep mud and water out, but some water does get through when I get really wet, I find myself avoiding puddles as much as I can most of the time. You pull the stock lid off and put it back on when you want more protection from the water and such, but you have to re-jet every time you remove or put back the lid. Here is a pic of what I did to my lid. Remember, if you do modify the intake in any way to get more air, you need more fuel too, so you will need to re-jet your carb.

A few mods? It doesn't look like there is a stock part left on that thing! Nice ride, and welcome to the forum.

He probably won't be back, try sending him an e-mail.

Still got a bad connection somewhere, double check all those cables, one of them is probably loose or broken.

That looks like one mean S.O.B.

Good stuff, makes me want to go some place nice and warm, I am tired of the rain.

Yes, don't you know that anytime you get a new machine, pictures are mandatory?

Could be a bad starter, a bad connection, or bad battery cables. Could be that the starter gears are binding up too. Something is causing the starter to draw more current than it should need. I would double check your connections and check your cables by doing a voltage drop test. If you google "voltage drop test" you will find instructions on that. If you are left with the starter being the only thing left to be bad, then I would take it out and take it apart. You may be able to get away with just cleaning it up, or replacing the brushes. Good luck.

When you say the timing is set, are you talking about the valve timing or the ignition timing? If you have a backfire going through the carb one of them is most likely off. A broken flywheel key will throw off spark timing and the cam timing will look like it is set, but since the timing mark on the flywheel is offset from where it should be in relation to the crankshaft position, it too would be off. You could have a stretched timing chain or a bad tensioner. I would double check all timing components, make sure everything is properly set and the flywheel shear key is in tact. Good luck.

I think you are supposed to screw it in, there should be a capacity stamped right next to the filler hole, it will be in either milliliters or cubic centimeters, they are the same, 1cc = 1ml.

I would look for a stock replacement carb, Ebay would be the ideal place to find one for cheap. May I ask why you need to replace the carb, is the original beyond repair?

Another thing to look for is closeout items, stuff that is out of date is oftem marked down significantly. Rocky Mountain ATV MC has close out specials all the time. Just shop around, you should be able to find a good deal somewhere. I will agree with Stoopidbot, you do want to get a decent boot, look for a deal, but I wouldn't buy some crap boot, they won't last and you will spend more on crap in the longrun anyhow. Good luck with the search.

Here is a link to a thread that RockymountainATV posted earlier.

http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/manufacturer-aftermarket-promos/9606-new-spring-specials.html

Welcome.

I would say that the Harley is still probably worth more and you should get some cash or something else on top of the Honda in the trade. But if the quad is worth more to you than the Harley, then...

I will also confirm that the quad in the picture is a TRX 450R '04 or '05 like Tages said. The early 450Rs have an oil cooler and a stronger tranny. Most desert racers prefer these older models because of these things. I had an '04 and it was a good bike, the have a completely different personality than the '06 and newer. The newer ones are faster, but the old ones have more low end grunt and more potential IMO because they have a longer stroke and a more aggressive cam profile, add a big bore cylinder and a high comp piston, these things can be a real beast.