ATVmechanic

How are you making out with this?

The problem with wax is that it sticks to everything. Dirt sticks to it like crazy. Light a candle let the wax get hot and then stick it in the dirt. You will never get all the dirt off.

I prefer to use Belray Chain Lube.

Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube - Street Bike - Accessories - Motorcycle Superstore

Good point!

Take a look at the diagram here: 2001 Yamaha ATV Parts for BEAR TRACKER / YFM250XN, Fuel & Air - CARBURETOR

There are a few adjustments that can be made.

Motul Chain Lube Off Road or Castrol Chain Wax

Do you use the button when backing up.

You need to hold the reverse override button, are you doing that when engaging reverse?

Well just an update. The spark plug has seemed to fix the problem. The quad runs awesome now, and just in time for me to use it during our cherry harvest too. I start harvesting Bing cherries Wednesday the 17th. Again thanks go out to everyone for their input and help, I really do appreciate it.

Steve

I'm glad you fixed your issue., and a plug was all it took....condolences to you about your father.

I found the problem, after 2 weeks in the shop, they found nothing. I went and got it from them and took it to my racing buddy. In 15 minutes he determined that I need a new start button. The spring has collapsed causing the contacts in there to short out.

That's good troubleshooting by your friend!

Well the new cdi didnt fix it, still cuts out around 5 or 6 grand. I noticed it sputters a little while accelerating too. Im going to check the timing. How about the valves? Clearence off, bent valve, etc.??

Or does anyone think the shop jetted it wrong? I have not ever jetted before, my lack of time and experience was why they did it in the first place. Or should i just take it to a shop and save myself the hassel??

Take it back to the shop, it does sound like they jetted it wrong, on high rev you're most likely fuel starved.

You said that you cleaned the carb...have you taken it apart and inspected the components like the float...Sounds like it needs to be rebuilt.

Sounds to me like she's running too rich. You might have a fuel mixture screw on the carb that you can adjust. I doubt it was jetted.... Is it all original? Are you getting smoke out of the tailpipe when you are running? If so, is it black?

I would start off by putting in a Yamaha Warrior Stage 2 Jet kit and go from there. It'll give you the ability to adjust that thing out. Instructions attached. Here's a part of them..

"Remove stock main jet and replace with Dynojet main provided. If you are running the

stock exhaust use the DJ146 below 3000 feet, DJ142 from 3000 to 6000 feet and

DJ138 above 6000 feet. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust, use the DJ148

below 3000 feet, DJ144 from 3000 to 6000 feet and DJ140 above 6000 feet. Be sure

that the jet you are changing is the main jet. Discard the plastic cup that is on the stock

main jet."

Dynojet Jet Kits - Offering Motorcycle Jet Kits & ATV Jet Kits

Unfortunately you need to do some electrical troubleshooting like these guys said. Get yourself a good wiring diagram/manual and multi-meter.

Thanks for the information...you should get credited for the manual edit!

Here are some things to consider:

Spark weak:

battery voltage low

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble

Spark Plug cap shorted or not in good contact

Spark plug incorrect

Ignition coil trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Pilot screw maladjusted

Pilot jet, or air passage clogged

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too low

ATV Mechanic didn't get to look at the quad tonight maybe tomorrow, thanks for the info. Dave

Any news on this?

If that's the case, then AJMBOY is correct. I misunderstood exactly what was going on. Here are some suggestions:

To test:

Neutral Switch

Locate the sky blue colored wire on the left side of the frame. Disconnect the bullet connector. Touch the positive probe to the sky blue wire and touch the negative probe to an engine ground. The switch should have continuity in neutral and no continuity when in gear.

Neutral Relay

For some reason Yamaha labels this the starting circuit cut-off relay on the Raptor models. On the other models it is labeled correctly. Unplug the 4-pin connector from neutral relay. Jump a positive battery lead to the brown wire terminal and the negative lead to the green/white wire. Touch the positive probe to the white/black wire terminal and the negative probe to the sky blue wire terminal. There should be continuity when the battery is jumped correctly, and no continuity when the battery is disconnected.

Some images attached, of the relay and wire to switch, to help you....

I would just go over my steps and make sue you did not poinch anyting or disconnect something. Do you have power in the on position? Is it a matter of the starter just not cranking or is there no power to the bike at all?

Any engine mods?

Will a Warrior head from 95 -04 work on a 06 raptor ?

It should work on a 350 Raptor engine. You can doublecheck the diagrams here: My Yamaha Prompt - Parts Catalog

Yes, we need to know what fuse is blowing and for what circuit. Take a look at a wiring diagram: http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/yamaha-atv-technical-help/5702-2004-2008-yamaha-raptor-specs-electrical.html

My brother and I recently purchased an old 250r, with the intent of rebuilding it. We need a wiring diagram, would anyone know if there is one posted online, or would anyone have a copy they could scan and email to me? I am going to try to post some pictures of it when I get time, any ideas, questions, comments or concerns would be a big help.

Unfortunately I do not have anything that goes back that old for Suzuki. You should just invest in a $20 manual. I looked at some of my online sources also, but could not find one. If I come across one, I will post it up.

Hmm...well sounds to me like it's having difficulty engaging and could be because of issues with your clutch. That's a possibility, You may need a rebuild kit like: https://www.erlandsonperformance.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EPI&Product_Code=WE210165

You may want to take the belt cover off and see what's going on in there. Check for metal filings. Here are some schematics that are available online: 1997 Polaris ATV Parts for XPLORER 400L - W97CC38C, Engine & Exhaust - CLUTCH COVER XPLORER 400L W97CC38C

Buy yourself a manual.

Here is a video on how a Polarius clutch works:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AfR3u8jyio&feature=related]YouTube - Polaris ATV Maintenance & Repair Tips : How Clutches Work on a Polaris ATV[/ame]

You should adjust the cable to reduce free play. There should be a minor adjustment at the lever on the handlebars. If you need a major adjustment, I believe further down the cable there is a an ajustment with lock nuts.

Exactly what AJMBOY said. Have you been able to adjust it?

I have not heard anything bad about it. For 2007, they used a KTM engine I believe, for their 525 Outlaw. It was one of the faster machines that year.

What is the year make and model?

You've got a short somewhere. What are you doing before the fuse blows? Is it immediate when connecting the battery or replacing the fuse?

I would hook up a meter and start pulling fuses and diconnect connections until you find the circuit that returns it back to normal. Then you will have a direction to go.

Check out this kit: Yamaha YFZ450 - Twist Throttle Kit - ATV Parts - Yamaha YFZ450 | R