ATVmechanic

I agree with DirtDemon, take the cover off and see what it's doing.

There is a sensor that is referred to as the angle sensor, which could be your issue. If you are not confident, you should have someone troubleshoot it for you at a shop/dealer.

Once you locate the sensor, look at the condition of the wires, connector, and sensor iteself. Make sure no trail debris hit it.

Look at #10 below:

If it turns out bad, go to Bike Bandit where you can get it for @ $70 Part# 5904359-001

Is that a semi-auto tranny? Make sure you don't need oil with additives that Mobil1 may not have. I would double check with the dealer.

Check out this link about using Mobil1 synthetic in your atv: Using Mobil 1 in ATV Deploying One Oil Supply for Transmission and Engine

Glad to hear she's runing better!

I just got a 98 Arctic Cat 400 4x4. The guy i got it from told me it needed a new carbourator. I just got a used one off of an 04, the Arctic Cat dealer in Selma, AL said it would work just fine. The only difference, as far as we could tell was that the throttle was on the opposite side (right side) than the 98 carb (left side). We put it on, but are having a little trouble. We hooked the fuel line to the plastic nipple right behind the throttle plate. Still didnt start, so we then wet a towel with gasoline (very stupid i know...not my idea, we didnt have Ether) and stuck it where the air filter enters the carb, while doin this, it almost started. So, i guess the carb is not getting fuel. I then called the mechanic who sent me the carb, he told me we had the fuel line in the wrong spot, he said it should go in the metal one on the right side. The plastic nipple which broke off while we were messing with it appartently is just for air to get in. Does anyone know if this is true because it still wont start. After i hooked it to the right side, it has a steady gas leak from carb. Also, does anyone know where i could get a replacement for the plastic nipple that broke off (apparently the one for air)? It is a very tight squeeze, and apparently it fits over a little brass swivel. Needless to say i have no idea about ATV engines, and need some adive. Lastly, does anyone know where i can get a manual or a diagram of the engine. Thanks!

Hey Matt, any update? How did you make out?

I dont think he is asking about the compression ratio... Stock compression should be 120psi plus... Im pretty sure you have to disable the auto decompression on it to get a good reading or you could do a leak down test on it...

Yes, I believe stock is:

Compression Ratio 9.2x1

Compression 834 kPa (121 psi)

Hi Guys, I just wanted to give you an update. I took the carb. off. I took it to a guy that works on all kinds of engines. He took it all apart and cleaned it. He also found that there is a small rip in the rubber diafram that is in the top of the carb. I ordered the part. It cost 115.00 dollars, ( Good thing I'm rich ) It will be about one week before it gets here. thanks again for the help and the diagram of the carb. It helped bunches.

I will let you know how it works when I get it back together. Fred

Glad it helped! Good luck!

I attached a diagram for you...

If you search these forums, you will find the Artic Cat parts finder....http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/arctic-cat-atv-technical-help/3289-arctic-cat-e-parts-catalogs.html

Maybe someone should STICKY that thread.

I'm also attaching carb disassembly procedure for you out of a manual.

There's no links here for info...

I have to agree also, that carb may have issues. Fresh gas also when you are done.

I attached a carb breakdown and some specs for your machine...

To start, I would visually inspect the starter gear and flywheel. If you can't see anything obvious just by looking at it, then turn it over while it is exposed and see if you notice anything. Pull the spark plug boot off so it doesn't start while you have the side cover off. The problem could also be timing related, check the flywheel key, if it sheared off then the plug will spark at the wrong time and could cause combustion too early and stop the motor from turning.

Well said.

My friend has 04 660 Raptor, when he goes to start it, it has a hard time starting. It continuously turns over and this something sound like it hits hard and binds up. A loud clanking noise. Is this maybe the flywheel/starter problem? Need help asap. Thanks.

Hard time starting, does it eventually start? If it does, how does it run once it starts. If it never starts, pull that spark plug out and check it. Check your spark.

well i replaced the CDI box.. & got a new battery...

& it still wont start... so i guess it must be the Stator...

I can get a new stator for $125ish from parts unlimited...

oh well... now im in no rush to fix it again.... heh

any1 want to trade...

or maybe ill part the quad out.. heh

Did you get this going? What's the status on this machine?

I just put the carb back together after a good teardown cleaning and it runs like a new machine!!!

That's good to hear!!!

What's the status on this thread? Still having issues?

How about ATVMechanic??????

Thank you for the concideration, but I am not interested in being a moderator right now. I will continue helping when I can. I just cannot commit to being here all the time.

Unfortunately it sounds like you may have shorted the CDI box or the starter relay.

I'm attaching a Raptor Wiring diagram, but I believe it is for the 350. It may be similar if not the same. I do not have a 700 diagram.

If it sounds like it's trying to turn over but can't, change out your starter. Mine had a brand new battery and still seemed as if the batter was low or dead, I changed out the starter and it fired right up.

Turned out he had a loose ground...

Thanks very much for the help. I was looking for a site like that where i could get parts diagrams. Thats perfect, thanks again

Glad to help.

Since it's modified, it may take more cranking power to get it started. That is my guess since you said you put a new battery in it and it's difficult to turn over.

It does however turn over when hooked up to a 12V source.

Even though it is a new battery, it could be defective and not taking a full charge. You may want to have it tested at the place where you bought it.

I believe that atv takes a battery #YTX9-BS which is a Yuasa number if I'm not mistaken.

If it tests good, you could try finding the same group size battery but with more CCA. (Cold Cranking Amps)

Have a look at these Honda batteries, notice the CCA: Honda ATV batteries

You may also want to doublecheck your charging system..as a second possibility..

"The Honda TRX400EX uses a full wave permanent magnet type of charging system. To test the charging system the battery must be fully charged. To accurately check the charging system and its components you will need a digital multimeter. A set of alligator clips for the meter leads will make some jobs much easier.

To test the charging system as a whole, leave the multimeter set to VDC, touch the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post. Start the engine with the meter leads still connected to the battery posts. Rev the engine up to approximately 4,000 rpm and compare your reading with specification.

(Specification for battery charging voltage with the engine at 4,000 rpm is 13 to 15.5 VDC)

If battery charging voltage does not reach 13 VDC, the charging system is not working and the components must be checked.

If the battery charging voltage goes over 15.5 VDC, the regulator is defective and the regulator/rectifier must be replaced."

Do you have the operational instructions on performing that test task? If so that would be great. I've never had to test one before so I'm not familiar with it. Sounds like you know what your doing.

I'm not sure what that model has, but usually there is a positive wire for power, and another wire sending the voltage back to adjust air fuel mixture, based on throttle position. Check the signal wire voltage for fluctuation while you move the throttle. This should give you an idea if it's working. If it's not and is shorted, it may be signaling for closed throttle.

That has an electric fuel pump. You may want to check fuel pressure or see if the pump is delivering fuel and not just making noise.

TBI Assembly. Look at the parts diagram: World of Powersports' Honda ATV Parts Finder

Mine is a 500EFI. Haven't messed with it again yet. I'm disgusted with it.

You should test that TPS with a volt meter....when you're not disgusted anymore.

After a rollover and breaking out the Speedo Gauge my machine starts and will not stay running nor will it idle. Speedo is removed as it is non repairable. I can pump the throttle as it is running and that is the only way it will stay running but will not rev up. I can spray gas into air cleaner intake when air cleaner is out and it will rev up. I pulled the injector out and made sure there was gas getting to fuel rail when pump comes on and there is. One person told me you need the Speedo on for it to run fine but I took one off my 800EFI and it still does same thing and the 800 runs fine without the speedo on it. Any advice??? You can not ride machine like this. Like machine isn't getting proper amount of fuel through the injector. I highly doubt injector is bad being only 300 miles in change on the machine. Please don't tell me adjust throttle cable. Any Legit idea's??

Is yours also an 800? Or is it a 450, 500, or 700...

Sounds like it could be the TPS sensor but as you get higher in CC's you may have some other possible stuff going on.

I know this is an old thread, but was it the jetting?

Like they said, try changing the oil in the machine. But the main thing you need to do if you feel you are loosing oil is, a compression test.

"Testing the compression of an engine allows you to check the condition of the top end without a costly tear-down. For this reason, a compression test should be performed as one of the first steps in any tune-up. There is little point in adjusting your jetting when you have a bent valve or worn rings."

Instructions:

You will need a compression gauge with a 12 mm adaptor to test your engines compression.

1.Remove the sparkplug.

2.Install the sparkplug adaptor paying particular attention not to cross-thread it.

3.Attach the compression gauge to the 12 mm adaptor.

4.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, hold the throttle wide open and crank the electric starter until the needle on the compression gauge stops rising. Compare your reading with specification.

(Specification for compression is 686 - 883 kPa or 100 - 128 psi)

A low reading is a possible indication of tight valves, damaged piston and piston rings, poor valve seating, leaking cylinder head gasket or a worn-out cylinder. Check that your compression tester connections are not leaking and are properly tightened. Pour a few drops of fresh engine oil into the sparkplug hole and recheck the compression. If the compression increases that is a good indication that the cylinder and/or the piston rings are worn. If the compression remains the same you will want to inspect your valve clearances. See the Valve Adjustment topic for more information.

If your compression test reveals a high reading it is not necessarily cause for alarm. Is the engine stock? If you are running a high-compression piston or the head has been milled you will get higher readings than specification. If the engine is stock, a high compression reading could indicate excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and/or combustion chamber.