swampcat07

I added a few from PA to the trails section. If I get time later I will add all the state trails.

I ride all over PA, the Mountain is opening sometime this spring for riding. SSRT is the best deal for the money.

OK I'm in on this contest, not the best but I finally have a setup I like.

Trail: Mud Lite XTR 27x9-12 Front and 27x11-12 Rear / Mud: Highlifter Outlaws 29.5x12-12 Front and Rear

Sway Bar, Hockey Puck Mod, EBC Brakes and Rotors, 2" Snorkel, Black Magic Slip On, Exhaust Snorkel, Airdam Machined Primary, D Ring Tow Hook and Strap

Auto Meter Temp and Volt Gauge, All Balls Wheel Bearings and Tie Rods, 4" PIAA Lights, Super-Bright Red LED Taillight Bulb

F-1600: Tamarack Classic ATV Front Box w/ Speedrack Quick Release, Custom Graphics by Arctic FX, Hunter Green PowerMadd Star Series Handguards

Herculiner on Racks, Bumpers, Snorkels, and Box, Circuit Breaker for Fan and Main, Coolant Overflow Tank Vented Near Pod, One-way Valve on Carb Drain

60-IN. AC Plow Blade - Modified, Remote Angle Control, and Winter Front

What pressure do you have your tires set at. Is this climbing a hill or through an obstacle? Or are you riding on a flat area?

5 psi should be max if you have hop. Wheel hop sometimes can be avoided with throttle control. I would be off the gas as soon as it starts hopping. You can break an axel or blow a diff if you don't let off.

drain the fuel and clean the carb they get gummed up with varnish from old gas. Plus stale gas has a much lower flash point and is not good for the wheeler.

This sounds like it will fix it. I also run sea foam through every other tank of gas. It keeps everything clean.

I am going to see if my friend cleans them. He is able to swap out the leds to different colors and stuff. I know you can disassemble the display and clean the circuit board with contact cleaner. The display is a common problem on cats. If you want to try and e-mail my friend directly PM me and I will give you his contact info. I don't know if is against forum policy to post it in the thread.

If he blew the head gasket wouldn't there be a sweet smell to the exhaust and also he would be low on antifreeze. Sometimes the water/condensation that sits in the exhaust evaporates on startup. The "white smoke" only lasts for a few seconds in this case. DD or Scott if I am off here help me out.

When you put the belt on did you use a bolt from the case to spread the secondary? This will allow the belt to fit on the primary. How about the dry side of the case was there belt dust or debris in there? Did your rollers travel up and down freely? Make sure you use red loctite when reassembling.

Not related but did you change your spark plug? Does the bike have snorkels or an aftermarket exhaust?

Ask as many questions as you like. That’s how we all learned. As mentioned above the Wal-Mart oil if fine as long as it is wet clutch safe. There is an oil filter there somewhere try looking under the front fenders near the front of the engine. The ATV shop across the way should be able to cross reference a filter for you. You do not need to run the AC brand.

To clarify my statement above synthetic oil will not solve mechanical problems. However I do notice it helps the machine to run quieter and sometimes cooler. You can switch to synthetic but it is not good to switch back and forth, mixing of the two is also not recommended even though there are some products out there that do just that.

You have to remove the two plastic screws (be careful not to strip them) under the front of the pod. Then the key switch. The pod swings up from the front then out from around the bracket in the front. Unhook the harness and blow the connection out with compressed air. If you want there are two screws to take the display off. I do not recommend taking it apart but if you do, do it slowly. Clean everything with electrical parts cleaner and reassemble. Use dielectric grease in the connector and hopefully that works. Let us know how you make out.

The 250 Cat is a nice ATV. Let us know what you find out with the carb. Mine would bog down and it was a stuck float. I think the engine noise may be valve lash, you can also try runing a synthetic oil.

2357 Kbps

Disconnect the battery for 30 min or so. make sure you disconnect the batter and not just pull the fuse. See if the led pod resets. I don't recall a belt light or problems except on the v2s.

I am looking for a set of spacers for the mud tires and then some engine mods.

I might clip the spring in the carb and drill the slide this spring, still thinking about it.

I also want to arrange some things to help me better in the mud pit. I raced a few times this summer and did average.

The second time (above) I had minor carb issues. The 1st run was awsome but the 2nd I think I took a bit of water on. Had a exhaust snorkel made.

The Third (below) was the first time I ran the 29.5s the only problem was the mud pit was more a pond with a hard botton. Should have switched back to the XTRs, my decision killed me. With the new clutching I hope this is a thing of the past.

Tight valve lash = hard starting or backfiring

Loose valve lash = noisy

Afriend of mine checks for noise from time to time with a screwdriver handle up against his ear on the tip on a valve cover listening for a good quiet tick.

The screw you are talking about is the pms screw. If it runs fine from 1/4 to full throttle it is either your pilot jet or the pms screw. Check the screw first and then double check you put the jets back in the right spot and there is nothing in them. One spec of dirt can throw everything off. On the newer cats it is 2 to 2.5 turns out. Not 100% with the older ones.

If you have the manual there should be a spec section like how much oil diff fluid etc etc. Try checking there.

I just tried the clutch out with the 29.5s on and it made a huge diffrence. Have to get in some sticky mud and see if anything else needs to be done.

If it was hard starting before you dug into the carb the first thing I would check is the valve clearance.

I don't think the 300 has the auto choke so it can't be that.

Not sure what year the 300 was supplied untill but AC sold zuki engines (400,500,700) up untill about a year ago.

As I find more info I will post it up.

OK finally uploaded!!! Here is my submission:

Quad ATV Best of Mud Bogs, Boulders, and Blunders » ATV Videos » QUADCRAZY ATV Community

Short Clips of the Best (Caught on Video) Muddin, Climbing, Rock Crawling, and Crashes that I could find. I tried to add some of the footage that did not make it to my other vids. Segments are from the Lost Trails, RAC, Demon Run, Rock Run, Bloody Skillet, Mountain Ridge, and some other trails.

I had Airdam machine my primary, well another one. I can lift the front end with 27s off the ground no problem now. I didn't get a chance to ride with the 29.5 outlaws yet.

My goal is to be able to turn the 29.5s but still be able to trail ride.

Did you just mod the dry end of the clutch or the wet end also?

Yep everything is bedlined. The graphics are from Arctic FX. Thanks for the compliment. It took a few weeks to accomplish. I'm working on clutching now.

Did you change the oil recently?

When filling the oil you should check the repair manual for the correct amount of oil. The AC oil change kit provides enough oil for an oil change but not the exact amount. If you add all the oil you will have overfilled it.

Finally some engines check the oil level with the dipstick screwed into the engine and some with it resting above on the threads. If you think this may be the problem I can find the specifics for your model. Let me know.

Yes it looks bad but at least the hood opens now.

This is my favorite: Warn Industries - WARN 30 SERIES: XT30

Gorilla is a strong 2nd.

Make sure you get replacement rope for plowing. I think it is only a few feet long.

Glad its back up and running. Do you have a lift on it?

If you are still having problems I would take the actuator off the atv and take it apart and inspect the plastic gears. Make sure you seal it with silicone when you reassemble.