Mech

I think you can choose to look at sites as a mobile phone user or a pc user.. It was possible a while back.

Oh ok. I contributed a few bucks a while back and so don't see the ads. When I used to see the ads though I'd never seen anything like what you are describing. It's still one of the better sites and you should feel free to ask any questions if you have any when you're putting that engine back together.. Best not to burn our bridges..

I thought the banner along the bottom ads, could be dismissed with a click of the mouse ? The other side ads aren't intrusive. And if we don't want to contribute to keep a site open, then we need the ads. It's a pity that some people think they should get everything for free, and handed to them on a plate. That just makes someone else do the work.. I think the mods here do a great job and that the "rules" are fair and easy to comply with. This site is one of the best.. Bad luck for those that think a few ads are all just too hard and more than they can deal with..

Have you been using and following the service manual ? That will tell you what to check and it will lead you through a logical progression of steps to diagnose the problem. Basically an engine needs three main things to run, compression, fuel and a spark at the right time.. Is the engine cranking over at a good speed when you use the starter ? Does it have a good blue spark ? If you try to start it, does the sparkplug get fuel on it ?

Ha.. Too funny.. Some people are too quick to criticize and complain about other people, without ever looking at themselves.. You should stay Bigguy, you have a lot to learn.

Yeah.. And I realized that neither of us has mentioned.... there is generally one narrow side and one wide side of the rim, measured between the center depression and the bead seat.. Always take tyres off on the narrow side. And, you have to have all you can of the bead sunk into that center depression while you are pulling one short bit of the bead over the rim. If you sink the bead in, then apply a little pressure with a lever on the opposite side of the bead, you can generally push more of the bead into the depression as it pulls in.

I'd check the gauges earth wire is ok.. And perhaps have a look into the tank to see if the float isn't somehow jammed upwards.. If you download the service manual it will tell you exactly what to check and lead you through a step by step process to diagnose it.

Could you look the part up and post a picture showing which seal it is you mean ? Generally seals are fitted into housings, and they are generally the last thing after all the shims and bearings and gears or anything else that may be in there..

Single hex socket ? Single hex socket that's been held against the grinder so the working end is ground off flat and sharp edged, without the usual rounded/tapered lead in into the socket. They go right down on the bolt, and the sharp ends get more bite and don't try to slip. Try to tap the plugs head first. That has two effects, it loosens the threads slightly, and if done the right way can slightly flare/spread the end of the plug so the socket gets a bit better grip.. Since it's in alloy which you wouldn't want to crack, you'd need to use the ball end of the hammer and go around tapping right on the edges of the plugs head to spread the metal without having to hit too hard.. If the hole it's in allows that of course. If it's accessible, and has a flange, use a small blunt cold chisel to try and tap/force the flange around. A few taps on one side then the other.. Drill right through it and use an easyout.. Smallish hole and easyout might work if it's not too tight. If it's tight it would need a big drill so you could use a big easyout.

You really should get a wedge Randy.. That's the safe way to get trees down. They don't fall on your bike then.. while you are on it operating the winch. They make small wedges for small trees. It's illegal for loggers to use a winch to nudge trees down over here.. for good reason.

Ha.. too precious !!

The post numbers are right there at the bottom of your profile.. Kibble's done 17, Gw's done 301...

That manual by the way, if you download it, arrives named "2000-01_big_bear_400_service". That's where I got confused.. haha. I was looking at one but the quadcrazy manual page listed it as something else.. It's got the fan controller, the start isolation relay, the reverse relay (without a built in diode), and the carby warmer..

That's no trouble Gw... I don't like mysteries. That link above does actually seem to be the right one.. I must have got confused from looking at too many. The one above has the starter isolation relay and the fan control unit.. I think it's all right.. Yeah Gw, all the secondary windings are always in the Kohm range.. Primary windings always less than one. The book(the right one) says the secondary should be 6.32- 9.48KOhm.

Ok.. Mystery solved.. sort of. All those other manuals were for water cooled engines Gw.. Here's a manual for an air cooled engine and with the fan controller.. Unfortunately it doesn't have the starter isolation relay.. haha. . It might be handy though..

Yeah secondary windings are normally in the Kohms.

Yeah nah.. that's a bummer alright.. You'll get it this time. My son's just working on a crf, a four stroke motocross bike, and it's piston is huge and only about thirty mills high to the bottom of it's skirt.. and the skirt is all cut away except for the two sides. That will be a tricky one..

Aren't I seeing five wires in there though ? And we describe wires by the main colour and then the stripe Gw.. It's a convention..

Yeah a coupe of bits of wooden beading or something laying across the crankcase would keep the piston flat.. Two fingers do work though.

This is a good site Bigguy.. Don't knock it without trying it.

Youch.. Most bikes you hardly need a ring compressor, and on a lot of them a ring compressor won't work, or at least, a lot of ring compressor designs won't work on them, because the sleeves have a big gentle taper at the bottom.. It was probably caused by letting the barrel lean over on the piston as it was going on, pressing the ring in on one side and allowing it to pop out on the other side. You need to get two fingers in under the piston to hold it flat as you slide the barrel down over it..

In the books I'm looking in there is no fan relay.. There's only the starter isolation and the reverse relays Could it be the fan's circuit breaker ? How many wires does it have Gw, and what colours ? It should be identifiable by it's plug and wire colours.

It's because of what I say King.. They only fit over the rim if the opposite side of the bead is pulled right into that smaller diameter bit near the center of the rim width.. And.. it pays to keep rechecking that the opposite side is right near the side you are working on but in the center depression. as you are levering tyres on or off.. To get the new ones on you push one bead on till it hooks into that center depression, then start levering the bead on the other side of that same bead, but you keep checking where the bead in the depression is.. The first side of the tyre can be pushed right onto the rim by hand if it's lubricated.. I've been fitting bike tyres with a single six inch lever for ever.. Done right, we can push the first side of the tyre right on by hand, then fit a tube, and then fit the seconds side with a single lever if we do it right.. Tyres do not need stretching, only positioning in/on the rim correctly. All tyres and rims, except split rims, work like that.. There is no need to stretch tyres !!

Well the oil ring didn't get that damaged being fitted... So what happened to it ?

I would imagine they are meaning part 31.. Often called a neutral switch. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/arc/54f648e087a8650a34f40803/gear-shifting-assembly