Mech

59240-22A04https://www.mickhone.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/1993/lt-f250/front-brake-hose#partid-45245403 I wonder if these would fit.. LT250.. it's the nearest we have here.. If they have a price, they should be available. If you go to that site you can choose a part and then click an arrow over on the right and it shows you what other models the part fits, and/or even better for you, in a diagram page, if you go to the top of the diagram and enter your part number(Search for part.. 59240-22A04), in the search box there, it will drop down a long list of comparable parts.. There's another search box at the top of the page but it searches the whole site, it doesn't come up with the drop down list.

If that's your manual, for your model, then yeah, that's the cam timing. The timing mark on the flywheel will be a "T" I think. It's easy to see if the mark on the cam is more than two mills out, which is about the minimum degree of accuracy we can adjust them to. If the mark is more than two mills out(a quarter of a link), then it could be adjusted better.. But if it's less than a tooth out, it won't be your trouble. It would appear that the problem is throttle, and so carby, related.. Any vacuum hoses on that thing ? Are the carb and tank breather pipes clear ? I'd be pulling the carb apart again.. And checking the jets are correct sizes for it's use. Most aftermarket carbs are set pretty average and may not run right in all situations and all bikes.

If a valve clearance is set too tight, way too tight, the valve can hit the piston. More commonly though the cam timing is the problem. I'm guessing you must be setting the timing wrong. You are finding a "T" mark on the flywheel, and aligning a slash mark on the cam sprocket with a mark on the center top of the head ? Once the timing is set, turn the crank carefully for two full turns, feeling for any sign of a valve hitting.

When did this valve hitting the head problem start ? After you'd adjusted the valve clearance ? Or is this valve hitting the head problem the thing you were trying to fix with a valve clearance adjustment ? I think first you should recheck your valve adjustment, possibly even backing the adjustment screws about a turn or more and seeing if that fixes that problem. If the valve hitting the head isn't curde with a different valve adjustment, then it might be caused by the cam timing being out. That you do as I said earlier, you take a bung out at the flywheel and take the cam chain cover off and align the marks on flywheel and cam with head. Best download a manual and have a read though.

Oh. That's called valve clearance... I don't have the manual and don't know the clearances, but there should be a service manual somewhere here that will have the information you need, and much more.

I think the later models do have a large valve clearance.. 2-4 for the inlet cold, and 9-11 thou for the exhaust cold.. I'd expect 9 thou to be noisy though.. On the old models even 4 could be noisy. If it was noisy , I'd check what the clearance was hot, and then reduce the clearance a little. allowing for that change from cold to hot..

There will be a small bung you take out to see a T mark on the flywheel, and there will be a mark on the cam sprocket that lines up at the top. Best to read the manual though..

That diagram you are looking at is not like the suzuki system Randy.. "Yes they do because that is all that is possible for them to do"... Oh ? I'll leave you too it Randy..

Some yamahas have a 12 volt feed into the cdi when the starter is used, I'm not sure what it's for but I'd suspect it's to retard the timing for easy start. Perhaps you could use the timing light and check the timing doesn't go right out of range when you release the starter button.. Best look in the manual though and check whether that bike has that 12 volt starter feed...

Well you're observant !! The plugs wet despite spark to the last rotation.. Bad plug or sparkplug cap or lead perhaps.

The consistent three second thing is the vital clue. Good work on identifying it. And.. don't be offended but.. you have counted the three seconds have you.. sometimes people say three seconds(off the top of their head) but when we check.. it can be one.. to ten.. And. if you give it throttle and revs, is the time the same ? It couldn't perhaps be twenty revs say always ? The timing light test.., you are saying that the spark is firing right down to near zero revs.. That is to say, the spark doesn't fail till after the motor starts dying ? It keeps flashing right to the last rotation of the motor ? I'd doubt the stator is the cause, the readings are good. I'd be suspecting the cdi unit if it is electrical. If the spark keeps going right to near zero revs though.. it won't be spark. Blocked exhaust, tight valve, carby problem still. Does using the throttle make any difference to how long or how it runs, and what about the choke ? Is it hard to start initially, and when it dies, does it start straight back up or do you have to wait a while ?

The evidence in your mind perhaps Randy.. I'm not going to try and explain all the various electronic components that may be in those regulators(because I'm not sure what's in there), or how they are intended and do work, because that would be a waste of my time, but you should understand that those regulators have a key controlled power input to them, and they don't operate as you claim they do, and just short the excess power to earth. You have used a winch and you must have noticed when we put a load on the electrics, even turning the headlight on, it causes a load on the motor. Think what would happen if the regulator started tying to drain all the alternators output to earth. Use some power and hear the load on the motor, turn the load off and hear the load on the motor lessen, then wait and watch as the voltage rises to the point of regulation, and see what happens to the load on the motor. They say a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing Randy. Why you would want to dissuade someone from doing the tests that suzuki recommends doing in the case of charging problems, is your business. I can only put it down to your attitude that you know better than the people that make the bikes, or people that have been trained in the business of diagnosing and repairing machinery, all of which points to a most alarmingly superficial understanding about these things, which equates to... a little bit of knowledge,

Ha Randy you really are too much. If you can't read, it's not my problem.

Ha. Randy, that's not rational thinking.. Thinking there's nothing I know that could cause the problem, and so I'm not checking for what could cause it, is a commitment to ignorance. I've already mentioned what should be checked. Why would you be so averse, and try to deter the person we are trying to help, from doing the simple checks for possible contributing factors ?

Read a manual Randy. It's not just my recommendation that the circuits should be checked for faults. It's what mechanics and auto electricians do.. It's what the bike manufacturers say to do. It's the prudent thing to do.

Eight to go...

The faults you don't know are possible..

Ha.. so there's never any fault except in the regulator.. And so we shouldn't bother checking. Brilliant !

And so you don't think it's a good idea to check for faults that may have caused the failure ?

I think the regulators fail for a reason Randy.. not because they are inherently faulty.

I don't think the regulators are as bad as Randy seems to think. I'd check the regulator, when you fit it, has a good earth, and that there are no bad connections between the regulator and the battery.

But you didn't adjust the valves ? And it hasn't gone since ? Test the oil as I say.. see if it's water soluble..

Good one !

There's an owners manual too. At the top of this page, "more", then "owners manuals", which takes you to a new page, then on the right choose the make. You need to make ten posts before you can download..

I presume it was running fine before this work ? So you'd changed the plug and oil both together and at the same time ? And you tried starting it and it wouldn't start at all, didn't fire even ? So did you check the sparkplug, which would of course be the obvious problem ? And if it did never start after the service, how long did you crank it before testing the compression ? If the oil was bad it wouldn't cause enough wear, that fast, to lower the compression. I'd suggest the rings are stuck in their grooves. I'd also suggest you use a screwdriver or something and dip a bit of the oil out of there and see if it will wash off/dissolve in water.