Mech

Ok, those copper coils will be for battery charging, the two covered ones will be for the cdi charging, and that black box is the trigger coil.. Betcha.. The battery coils will have a low impedence/resistance reading, the two will have higher resistance, and the trigger.. it will have a higher resistance still,.. Pretty sure those cut wires will be neutral light..

The regulators cause a problem when you rev the engine. I've never seen one cause a problem at idle.. Easy to check though.. Put a voltage gauge on the battery and see it's charging, and regulating.

But the motor does turn ? The clutch hub and basket have spacers/sleeves and washers in the setup.. Perhaps check all that against the manual. The reverse though... that's another matter.. I'd find what's wrong with the clutch, so you can perhaps report it to the shop, then I'd try and diagnose the gear pattern without taking too much apart till I'd talked to the shop about warranty.

You need to check that the air temp sensor, and the coolant temp sensor, are both producing the correct range of figures for the ecu.. Or the ecu will be making the mixture wrong.. Check cold, and hot.. The fuel filter should be able to take out any dirt in the fuel system, but if there had been a bit of moisture in there, you may have a sticky injector now. There is stuff called injector cleaner for in the fuel.. Don't know it does much good, but may be worth a try if the sensors are both ok. I wouldn't mix it with the other stuff though.

Downloads are up top in "More", then service manuals or something which open a new page, then on the right choose the make. "as soon as we tightened it up".. Was it the nut on the gearbox shaft that you were tightening up, or the four pressure plate bolts ? I think you need the manual, then check the change mechanism in the side case, and if it's not that, then it will be the gear shafts not put together right. Did you have the gears off the shafts ?

I'd have thought that all the stator part of ignition system would be in that outer case, with the windings in it. Are you sure those cut wires aren't for a neutral switch ? And those windings, some look like they have been hot, and some not..

Sounds like the gearbox has been put together wrong.. I'd jack the wheels up and turn the wheels while I changed gears with my hand, without the engine running.. Checking it did get all the gears, and in the right order. If you take the spark plug out, and turn the wheels forwards, they should turn the motor over if everything else is right.. You may need to turn the wheels back and forwards to get the gears to change, and it may take several rotations while you are holding the gear lever up or down, but you should get every gear, and if you turn it forwards you will hear the engine turn faster in low gears, and slower in higher gears.. Check it by hand.. If there's a problem, I'd pull the side case and check the gear change mechanism there/then, before I pulled the whole thing apart again.. it might be just in the outer case.

Good. Try and hold the flywheel firmly away from the engine when you hit it, even the tiny amount of play in the bearings will help prevent the bearings getting impacted when you hit the puller.. And that's a big puller, it can likely pull with ten tons or more. Don't over tighten it or it may bend that flywheel. The shockwave from the hammer is what's going to loosen the flywheel on the tapered shaft..

I'd suggest trying a slower idle before pulling anything apart.. it's so simple !!

Did you get what I meant about the hammer hit ? If we want to move a tight shaft in a hole, we use a big hammer and hit hard, and don't let it bounce.. That has a lot of drive to it... and could bend your crank.. Just a short sharp hit, that bounces the hammer back away.. That's what you want.

Put your puller on, wind it up fairly tight.. Then use an eight ounce engineers hammer(engineers hammer !), and give the bolt on the puller a sharp hit. It would pay to be holding the flywheel away from the engine as much as possible. Not a really hard hit, just swing the hammer a short way, but fast, and let it bounce back away from the puller. Depending on the end of of the shaft, and the end of your puller, it might be best to have the nut on the crank bolt.. That works on most bits of machinery, but some of those cheap import jobs these days are made really really badly, and it is possible that something could get bust.. I'd imagine there are fine threads on or in the outer end of that flywheel. If you measure the diameter of the threads, and using metric bolts to check what pitch the threads are, you can probably buy a puller made for a jap bike. The thread diameter has to be measured to what the outside diameter of the threads are. They will be metric, probably in whole mm. If you have a vernier caliper it will be easy. If not, you might be able to use something like a pair of scissors as a gauge, then apply it to a ruler.

Yeah I saw your other posts.. I think you'd get more responses, in future, if you say what make, model and year.

no, I just thought you may be wanting to look in there when it wasn't really necessary.. which happens quite often.

I use a puller and give them a tap with a hammer.. but if you aren't used to doing things like that it's probably best to buy a custom puller for that job.. They can be had for as little as twenty bucks.. and last forever.. Google flywheel puller and your bike brand. Are you sure you need the flywheel off ?

Ha.. that's pretty funny Dude.. I get that sort of thing making dinner... After dinner I notice a board with veges I'd forgotten to throw in there.. Or find a steak in the cooler !! And round here, the ground is hard as concrete in places in summer.. so this is the time for cleaning drains etc.. Mine are done.. It would be a good plan to check the temperature sensors are reading accurately. If it thinks the motor is slightly hotter than it is it will lean it out at light throttle. There's an air and a coolant temp sensor.. It might come right after a bit of riding. The software makes adjustments to compensate for the long term effects, like blocked or new aircleaners, blocked exhausts, worn motors. They make "short term" adjustments as they warm, and other adjustments as you load it up hills and give it more or less throttle. If they notice knocking/detonation. or needing to inject a lot of fuel too often, they make a "long term" adjustment, which gets saved and are then the new base figures from which they make the short term adjustments as you ride. So they retard the ignition timing till it learns you have better grade fuel say, or richer till you restore the vacuum.. The long term adjustments will slowly readjust over several stop start, cold hot, little throttle full throttle cycles. If you want to speed up the process, start it from cold and take it for a ride that incorporates all manner of riding.. At least thirty seconds of each.. Thirty seconds of each cold, and then thirty seconds with it hot.. using little throttle and full throttle, and slow speeds and high speeds, and till it gets fully hot. Then repeat.. After probably three cycles it should have relearned. One long ride doesn't do it.

That does sound like the problem.. What Stilkikn says..

Yeah there is some danger there as Dave suggests. It's also possible that the top ring lands on the piston could be pressed down, clamping the rings. That's why I asked how far from the edge. Perhaps a picture would be a good idea... If you are sure the valves aren't leaking, then they didn't get much strain on them, they bend really easily.

And, since you are I'm sure interested.. All the other sensors get over ridden and set at arbitrary figures if they play up so you can limp home. The CKP is the only one that kills the starting. It also warn that metal flakes on the crank sensor or flywheel will stop the signal. It only takes the tiniest bit of metal to bridge the gap between flywheel and sensor to short the magnetic flux. It might be worth checking that carefully... A real careful wipe with a rag mostly grabs rust/metal flakes.

After thought.. Since it's happened since the water, and before you disturbed it.. perhaps it's corroded terminals, corroded or eaten by the electrical current.. It would pay to work the rubber seals out of the plugs with a pin, and then get the terminals carefully out of their housings, and check the crimp on terminals don't have dirty connections to the wire.

Well I had a look in a slightly older model and the trouble codes are only set by missing connections. The ecu does not deduce faults. The criteria for the c12 code is "The signal does not reach ECM for 3 sec. or more, after receiving the starter signal". And it says the fault will be... "CKP sensor wiring and mechanical parts."... It would seem you have an intermittent wiring disconnect most likely. Since you have been changing things and getting differing results, it's a guess that there is a broken wire on the end of some wire where it goes into it's terminal.. or a wire broken inside the insulation somewhere.. I'd definitely be wriggling the wires individual(gently bending them) feeling for one that's too flexible.. broken copper and only plastic holding it together. Hmm.. bad cut.. It actually says.. "CKP sensor wiring and mechanical parts. CKP sensor, lead wire/coupler connection."..

No, find the bolt that holds the shaft they pivot on, take it out, and the pin will pull or push/tap out... I'd think.. There will be washers and springs.. take note. It would probably be best to get a set of arms. They are probably made to break and have a thin place on them, look around there for fatigue if you want, but I'd get a set.. They would have all been close to breaking if both valves hit and made similar dents. Hopefully they did their job and saved anything more major. There are a lot of cars with rockers like it and the precaution seems to work fairly well.

You should flip the head over and fill the combustion chamber with petrol and see they don't leak. The part that broke will be called a rocker arm probably. How far from the edge of the piston was the valve mark on the head ? If it's near the edge it can effect the rings. Was it much of a dent ?

I answered in your other thread.."I need help with....".

Speed the idle up temporarily, either with the screw or on the cable, then adjust the mixture, in for leaner, out for richer, till it idles fast, then slow it down and readjust, cycle around doing those two, adjust,slow,adjust.slow, till it idles slow and even.. Replacement carbies are hardly ever really set correctly for a bike.. They often need a lot of retuning.. If you get the idle right, then you can ride it and test the performance and let us know how it is and we can suggest what to adjust next..if need be.

Well there goes five potential posts already Bender.. haha. Valves get dished at the top where the adjuster rubs, so using feeler gauges is not an accurate way to adjust them. If you have a dial indicator gauge (which measures movement), that could be used, but I always just set them by ear. If you have the valves closed as they should be, and lift the valves and then snap them down as hard as you can in the confined space in there, you should just be able to feel and possibly hear a tiny dull click from the inlet, and when the exhaust is right it will just make a tiny but clear click when you do it. Those will give you figures of close to 2 and 4.. Six is noisy, testing and running So almost silent and barely feelable for inlet, and definitely feelable and hearable for exhaust.. They do have a habit, if the clearances are too great, of hammering and getting clearance again in a short time. If, after setting them, you can hear them clicking, they are too loose.