Mech

Even if you identify the year and model it's likely you won't be able to get a service manual for it anyway. The body work will be held on by bolts or clips or a combination of the two, and likely some tags that slot into rubber grommets..

Getting the vin or frame number is the best really for getting parts or service manuals, but this site is quite helpful. https://www.autoevolution.com/moto/polaris/

I think the govt set a quota of ten or fifteen percent of the fuel had to have ethynol in it. It's at every gas station but it's not used too much. Most of us still use the real fuel.. haha. Well around here in the country it's not used so much. In the city they have newer cars and it might be used more.

Lol.. You guys have reactive fuel.. We only have a little E fuel and people only use it in newer cars.. All the old machinery gets petroleum..

Yup..

Nahh couldn't be that... I'd happily swap my vacuum tap for a manual, but I'm too tight. It'd have to fill the sump and blow the engine before I'd spend any money(or time) on it.

Blue's good. If the cap comes off the plug lead take it off and try the spark..

Just read post #15.. only the one wire from the stator is for the cdi, and that was right at 170 ohms. You could also give the engine a spin and check that some small AC voltage is produced between that wire and the earth, then connect that back up to the wiring loom and go to the cdi unit and disconnect it and check that you get the same AC voltage between the two wires there. That will check the wiring and the kill switch. Then you can check the resistance between the spark plug lead and the earth wire on the cdi/coil unit and it should read 12 to 17.7 Kohms. That's all they say you can check on the cdi, but I'd also check the engine had a good earth, and I'd disconnect the kill switch and see if the spark improved. The only other check on the cdi is to plug it into a test unit that puts an AC voltage through the cdi and see that it makes a spark. The testers are fairly common and a local bike shop should have one, or, they use the same sort of tester in chainsaw and small motor shops. At a pinch you could use a power supply to put about 120 volts AC through it at a low amperage.. You'd need a resistor in the 120 volt line to limit the current.. Unless you know enough about how to do that you shouldn't try it though, so I'm not explaining any further. The good news is that the new cdi and coil you bought will operate off that stator. The stator is the same for the old two wire cdi and the new six wire cdi. It looks like you only need to modify the bike wiring a little so that the cdi gets a signal from the start button, and an extra earth... and, I suspect it will even work without the modification. I'd try just connecting up the new cdi to the stator as the old one is, with two wires, and two other ones to the new coil, and try it.

When you look at the spark at the spark-plug, is it blue ? And do you know what year this is ?

So at the moment you are using the original cdi/coil that came on it right ? And it's a two wire model ? Have you tested how far the spark can jump ? And is it a blue spark ? If the spark won't jump double the plug gap then it's too weak, and if it's yellow it's not right either. The seal between the crank and gearbox could be leaking and letting oil get in. I'd still expect the engine to at least fire occasionally, at least on the first try with a cleaned plug. And if the key on the flywheel had broken I'd still expect it to kick and back fire occasionally. You could try a squirt of ether to see if it will fire on that.

Ah Gw... this is a LT.. It's made properly.. haha. The oil mix or an oil leak is a good thought though. 32:1 should be fine. That drive unit won't make it not go.. A worn out crank seal could make it not go, but then it wouldn't be getting such a wet plug all the time. It's also possible the choke might not be going right off, but turning the fuel tap off will over come that too.. Turn the fuel off, dry the internals out, then try a new plug and see if it will at least start to fire..

Stale fuel can cause those symptoms. Make sure it's got fresh fuel. And, stale fuel can bugger spark-plugs in one single firing without even starting. They burn something onto the porcelain that looks oily and that shorts the spark down the porcelain when there is compression. A plug like that will spark out of the engine, but doesn't spark under compression.. If you have a gas ring you can burn them clean, but they are always susceptible to fouling again after that. Once the engine is running, and has been got hot, you can refit them and they are often ok untill someone floods the engine using the choke and then they start playing up.. They can be really really deceptive.. and it's caused by trying to start engines with stale fuel. I'd drain the carb and tank, put fresh fuel in, turn the fuel tap off, leave the spark-plug out and crank it over till there's no more fuel spitting out the plug hole, then I'd turn the tap on for a bit to fill the carb, then turn the tap off and fit a new plug and start trying to start it. If the fuel tap is off, and working(not leaking), then it will eventually dry out and sooner or later it should fire.

Is the fuel fresh ? Have you tried a new spark-plug ? If it's got a pull-start, does it feel like it's got compression ? If it doesn't have a pull start, take the plug out and stick your finger in the spark-plug hole hard and give the start button a push. If your finger gets blown out it's got enough compression. If you can hold your finger in there it might need some work.. perhaps a valve adjustment. If it's got fresh fuel, a new plug, and compression, turn the fuel tap off and try to get it to start. It might take a while if it's flooded but eventually with a bit of playing with the throttle it should start trying to go, and with a bit more messing with the throttle it might fire up. If it does fire up, run it with just a little throttle till it starts to sound like it's about to run out of fuel, then turn the tap on and keep it running with the throttle. If it dies again after the fuel got turned on, then it's flooding and the carb probably needs more work. If it stays running, drive it a bit and then turn it off and see if it will restart.

Thanks Ej. Hope things came right with the neck. Always happy to try and help anyone that's helping themselves. Take care.

View File 2022 Texron Tracker Off Road EViS Service Manual 2022 Texron Tracker Off Road EViS Service Manual with wiring diagrams. Submitter Mech Submitted 11/30/2023 Category Textron Off Road UTV  

Could be tight valve clearances.

I think the engine overhaul will be the same.. I was going to find you a manual but I see you found one already.

What model is it ? Renegade, maveric etc..

You only need to take one end cv hub off the shaft and then you can change both boots by sliding them along the shaft. And it may be possible without even taking the outer end out of the front hub. If the boots have been split for a time it is probably best to strip things right down and clean and grease them though, and that means taking the cv out of the front hub.. if the boots were barely or recently split I'd undo the lower ball joint on the A arm first and see how far out the hub can swing. If it's enough to get the inner cv out of the diff then I'd pull it out of the diff and let it drop down or swing it back or forwards so I could get it's boot free. Then I'd tap the inner cv off the shaft, remove the inner boot and then outer boot, slip the two new boots on after putting a bit of new grease in there and reassemble it. The only tricky part is getting the cv off the shaft. Some have an actual circlip that you close up with long nosed pliers and then the shaft pulls out easily, and other designs have a wire spring clip that springs out into a shallow groove in the cv, and those ones need a sharp tap on the cv to bounce the spring in and the cv to come off the shaft. Tell us what year and model and I'll check the parts book and see if I can tell what version you have and give some more advice..

It sounds like the float needle has got some dirt or fluff under it. The float needle's seat has an O ring to seal it to the carb body and those can leak too but it shouldn't be the case with a new carb that was ok to start with. Check the drain screw is done up first though if it has one, or check the drain valve if it has one as Dave is suggesting. I'm in New Zealand and I've never seen a drain button. I'd also turn the tap off and run the bowl empty, then turn the tap on and start tapping the carb body fairly hard around where the float needle is with a screwdriver handle.. It may just flush the dirt or wriggle the needle into a better position and it might come right. It works sometimes ! Sounds though like you might need to clean the fuel tank or tap filters or fit an after-market fuel filter.

Every part of a carb is designed and tuned to work with all the other bits as a whole, and for a specific bike, and they get tuned differently for climate, altitude, fuel type, and, the sort of power band the engine it's made to fit. They will happily sell us a carb that's the same, and runs ok, but that's really made to be on some twin cam, high compression, high revving road bike with a wide flat power-band, and although we can coax them through the flat spots or overcome the over rich at low revs that the slow old quad does, it's never really satisfactory, I do as you did if the idle mixture screw can't be got out, or the body is really worn, and get some after market to use as a base to swap all the old brass and rubber bit's into. And that doesn't always work I might warn people.. sometimes the air jets can't be removed from the air-cleaner side even though they appear to be exact copies, and the threads are sometimes different.. the jet threads as well as the idle mixture screw threads. You were lucky Params.. Glad it worked for you.

Glad to hear it's going well now. The coil shouldn't get too hot with 100mm clearance from the head. The spark plug caps on them are sometimes resistor caps, and sometimes not, and the resistor caps can fail. The caps resistance is sometimes included in the secondary resistance figure, and sometimes not. Some they say to remove the cap and measure the lead and coil only. And, even when the coil resistances are right, they can have an internal short that only shows up at thousands of volts. And for that matter, the rubber boots on the plug or coil can get a short burnt across it sometimes. I'm a fan of coating the leap, cap and boots with vaseline.. Hopefully this new one will go for years now.. Good work on/with the carb. Those parts you swapped are all adjustable so can't really be wrong, except perhaps the taper and diameter of the idle mixture needle, and threads which are sometimes different, but those are visible differences. I always opt for an original carb too.

Oh ok. It's not a model we ever got here.. I had a look at the spares though and it doesn't seem to have anything to hold it out, only in. The big spring returns it after it's been kicked and as far as I can see holds it right in. That gear #3 and #5 with teeth shown missing, they may not actually have teeth missing because it's quite common to simplify gear diagrams by leaving most of the teeth off like that. If that is how they are though, then there's a chance the missing teeth are to allow the pedal to swing out before engaging, but then it would require something to hold the pedal back into the engine once you had finished with it, and in that case the pedal should hang out by default unless it's been clipped in. I doubt that's the case, and it's more likely that the recoil spring is meant to hold the pedal in when not being used, and for the operator to need to swing it out against the spring pressure. That's how hondas with that system work. Have you read an owners manual ?

Good one. Glad it was simple.