Mech

Could the broken gear have made it's way to the gears and get shredded to dust ?

The spring clip gets dragged down into the groove on one side of the shaft, and the other side of the spring clip pokes out the other side of the shaft, and then the spring clip gets sheared off between the shaft and cv or diff. That's about the worse that happens. Then you generally end up using something as a slide hammer.. chain and weight works. Well... you did ask !

haha.. Babbits ? For future reference.. You can look things up with diagrams in the Partzilla site as well, and then if you click on the part number to put it into your shopping basket it takes you to a new page where there's a picture of the part in it's packet and the price etc, and if you scroll down they have a list of all the other bikes that part fits. That's real handy to know (what else it fits), if you want to buy a second hand part.

No, the axle won['t pull out of the cv, they generally need a sharp bump or hit with a soft hammer. The cv won't pull out of the diff, it will need a lever and bump with the palm of your hand or a lever and a tap with a hammer. You'll know when they go in far enough because they won't pull out. If they aren't in far enough and you give them a tug they will slip out again easy.

Go to Babbits and they have all the parts diagrams.. Look it up there and get the part number and then start looking for where it's availiable and at a good price. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_atv/parts

Four more posts to go I think...

First you measure the bore to make sure ten thou oversize will take out all the wear, then you get the piston, then you take the piston and barrel to the shop to be bored for that piston. We don't just bore ten thou and hope it's good enough for a ten thou piston..

Did you see in the listings they had the individual parts.. Just the hub with clutch shoes.

If you go to that listing, and scroll down, it says those parts fit 170 other vehicles, and if you scroll down even further it has menu which has listings for atv/utv clutches in a list on the left side of the page. It also quotes the original manufacturers part numbers if you have that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/355007512317?fits=Model%3ARodeo+500|Make%3AQLINK&hash=item52a818befd:g:dE8AAOSwznVk7qHX&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4HjAwuYD%2FJeBMtiz5IWrP8007%2Bvlzd5Mfn2KR8c8yTcjJnKYoRBbhlk9vGo%2FEw%2FoprTQHSWLW1BX80d4LvnS4ctGYCOR0QiYgPnEq6EtKZsGr0%2B4iGbY01EP6MjAbodriQwC2I6bMFdKw0t%2BAr03VSr4%2Bgg6BJWh8esABI4ObP3RpDx6eb2R3FYQ%2BVYjbM0Q7oOLLOML9PAfI0fPcKHWw%2FSuPJUL1n3aTFkB%2B6W3XmkO7Ac1jS5z2mTDNriKEZWng38f99JP564rMuvo3MLjR%2FN%2FlwNw3X57FnjEvwvlWh5G|tkp%3ABFBMkNioqJRj It's got the dimensions shown.. Something to check.

You won't be able to put a bigger barrel on that old head I don't think, and if you did it would probably not run good. You pull the head off and then inspect the barrel and piston and then decide if the piston and/or barrel is too worn. If things are worn you get a ten thou bigger piston and get the barrel bored to suit the piston. Jap bikes you can quite often though just put new rings on the old piston and they go for ages. If the piston and bore is worn, it's likely to need a crank job too.. maybe. Depending what the bikes worth and how many parts and outwork you have to get done it might not be worth overhauling the engine to that degree, but you can't tell till it's got the head and barrel off.

First thing is to check the valve clearances are set right. Then there are a couple of tests that point to worn rings. First is, when you do a compression test does the pressure come up to near the final pressure after only one or two compression strokes and then only increase slightly after that, or does the first compression stroke start out low and then every subsequent compression increase the gauge reading slightly to it gets to it's maximum. If it comes up compression by compression it points to rings being weak/worn. If the first reading is almost the same as the final reading it's probably valves And the other test is to put about a teaspoon of engine oil down the spark-plug hole and then do the compression test. If the oil makes a big difference then it indicates worn/weak rings. Oil doesn't make much difference to leaking valves. If you have compressed air, and can inject it into the spark-plug hole under a bit of pressure, while holding the crank at top, you can listen for air leaking out of the exhaust, inlet or crankcase breather/oil filler, and that will show where compression is leaking away. You can't tell if you need a new piston and bore until the engine is apart generally.

It sounds like either a dead battery, bad connection somewhere, or no charging. I'd check the charging first. If you charge the battery so it will be able to start the bike, then, before switching it on you put a volt gauge across the battery terminals, and it should read about 12.6 volts. If you push the starter then it should hopefully start up and if it does the voltage should start rising to about 13.6 volts within a minute or so. After some minutes and a bit of revving the voltage should regulate at about 14.7. If the voltage rises at about that rate then it's charging and we can eliminate that as the problem. If you turn the headlights on the voltage should drop to about 13.6 volts till you switch the headlight off, when it should climb slowly to 14.7. If though, when you push the start button, it doesn't start that first time, then it's either a dead battery or a bad connection (and perhaps not charging as well). So then you'd check the battery terminals and cables by doing a voltage drop test, along the positive and negative leads. If there is no voltage drop through the leads and terminals while the starter is operating, then it seems most likely to be a bad battery. You could confirm a new battery gets charged, and keeps the bike starting and running, by using a jumper pack or jumper leads off another battery in place of the bikes battery. To do the voltage drop test you put a volt gauge clip onto a battery terminal, and the other clip to the start solenoids threaded post where the starter cable attaches, and it should show zero voltage, then, when you push the start button it should still read zero volts. If the volts go above about a half a volt when you press the start button then that cable or it's connections have a bad resistance which needs fixing. Between the voltage drop test, and the substitute battery test, you should be able to ascertain whether the battery is at fault, or find the fault.

There's a service manual for that.. In the manuals section.

Ha.. Well it's a weird one. Only thing I can think of is there's a bad earth somewhere but I've already tried to figure where it could be and I came up stumped. Like you say.. If the kids are happy then we are happy. Gotta love happy kids.

Hmmm. If you've got the old version ignition with the cdi and coil all in one, then the red and orange wires aren't any part of the ignition. They only power the start relay. That shouldn't have made any difference to the spark. Connecting them like that might have made the starter more reliable but it shouldn't effect the spark.. I'm still mystified. If it plays up again remind us about this thread.

Yeah, something's funny. I'm suspecting it's an intermittent problem (of course), that's come right by it's self, or because Andy changed something. Perhaps a chafed wire rubbing to earth and killing the spark sometimes, or a bad connection which Andy fixed inadvertently, or multiple problems. I hate mysteries, and inadvertently curing things without knowing what it was I'd done.. If you're all good with it as is Andy then don't worry. If it plays up again though, remember this thread and we'll look into it a bit deeper.

Do you mean you disconnected the switch ? Bypassing it wouldn't work. The ignition switch and the handle-bar kill switch both earth the stator to kill the spark, and they are both open circuit for run. Either switch can kill the spark. They both though, need to be connected and switched to run for the starter to operate. I'm confused about what you've done. I think I'd go back and check the switches were connected up correctly to start with. It's possible that someone had changed one or both switches with a later model switch, and the later model switch could have the wires in different positions in the plugs.

People find ATVs offensive ? That's just nuts.

Anybody that isn't willing to put their name to their work or product has to be suspect.. haha. All the reputable bearings have the makers name on the races. I was fitting honda ct90 front brakes to wheelbarrows years ago and decided I'd go with cheap bearings, $8.00 instead of $24.00, and I was surprised how crappy the cheap ones were.

I think it's best kids learn to ride a two wheeler first myself. I got my two one when they were five and seven. They fall off a few times but it makes them cautious and careful and they learn about balance and traction and stuff better on a two wheeler. I actually taught my two to fall off.. There's ways to get off a bike without getting hurt, and once they know how to do that they don't just freeze up and ride straight off a cliff or into something solid. Kids that learn on quads do just that.. freeze up and crash, or roll and get hurt.

The idle speed valve or motors can get sticky, especially the valve sorts.. I'd probably check that first up.

Damn right Geezer. I'm always amazed how many people present a long list of parts they have replaced to try and fix a problem, but they haven't checked for broken wires or bad connections.. If your problem comes back you better check all the connections one at a time, trying the bike for a day or two to make sure which connection it is.. haha.. I hate it when I inadvertently fix the problem but don't know what it was I'd done.

That kit is for both sides and I only see housing seals in the kit. I'm not sure what small seal you are meaning. The O ring I'm mentioning is to stop water getting under the hub nut and making it's way along the cv shaft and into the bearing housing. Apart from keeping water out of the housing, it stops the shaft rusting into the hub. It says the bearings are OEM which stands for original equipment manufacturer, so they should be from the honda parts department. They aren't in honda parts packaging though so I'd be a bit dubious about that. Even more suspect is that the enlarged pictures of the bearings don't seem to have any bearing number stamped into them as I'd suspect. Good makes, like timken, skf, nsk, koyo, always have the bearing number stamped into one edge. Bearings do vary a lot and you can buy bearings that range in price by a ratio of three to one, and they have the quality to match.

If the small seal is an O ring it might be for under the nut that holds the hub onto the shaft. You should get a service manual and it will show all the parts and explain what's involved.