Mech

A service manual will tell you. What's a Twin Peaks.. make and model and year would help. The country/market you are in might make a difference too..

Who says it's an ECU ? Does it have a part number on it ? Unless your bike is fuel injected (it isn't), then it doesn't have an ECU. Is the wire that goes to your ignition coil orange, and does that orange wire go to the "ECU" ? If it does, then you've found your cdi.

"Still unsure of why it was dying in gear that time because it hasn't happened since however I'm assuming some combination of improper adjustment of both the shift linkages and the driven clutch was the reason. ". The only think I could think of that would make it stall when it jumped out of high, was if it jumped into reverse. That would try to stall the engine if you were moving forwards at the time, but it shouldn't do it when you had just shifted and not got going, which I think was what you'd said it did sometimes, jumped out from an attempted start, but.. That , going into reverse, might stall the engine if the belt was driving as you are saying it does.. You'd think you'd have heard a clunk though if it was jumping into reverse.. So I assume it's not the case.. My best shot though.

If you look the part up in Partzilla, then click on the part number as if you are going to buy it, it will take you to a new page where it describes the part better, and on that page there is a tab labelled "Fitment" (from memory it's fitment, or application..haha I'm not looking it up for you to check), click fitment and it lists all the other models that part fits.

This may be your model. Check the cdi plug shapes and wire colours to be sure. 93-05Kodiak400.pdf

It's more than likely that the short is not going to be inside the wiring loom, it's almost certainly a short where the insulation has chafed through until the wire is rubbing on the frame or engine. The other likely possibility is that some electronic component is playing up, and the only electronic component that's connected to the battery all the time is the voltage regulator. So.. disconnect the regulator and see if that cures the problem. Then, to save a lot of time, fuses and a possible meltdown in the wiring, get a headlight bulb, solder two wires to it, and push the wires into the fuse contacts. If the bulb glows you have a short. Then go through the wiring wriggling a little bit at a time, and gently lift it away from the frame a little bit at a time until the bulb goes out. Then check carefully around there for chafed insulation.. A good place to start wriggling wires is up around the steering head where wires move a lot when you turn the bars..

Yup definitely check the shift adjustments. It's strange it cuts out when it jumps out of gear. That might come right if the adjustment keeps it in gear. If the adjustment doesn't cure the jumping out problem and the gearbox needs work, then I'd try to figure what was causing the cutting out before I fixed the gears. If, after adjusting the shift so it's moving fully into high, it still has he problem, it would be a good idea to take careful note of what the circumstances are causing it to jump out. There are some tests/observations to be made before stripping the gearbox.

You said you fitted a new stator.. Trace those wires to the cdi unit and then use a gauge to check they have continuity, and if they do, then check that they both have some power coming out of the stator when the motor is being cranked over.. One pair of wires should have an AC voltage, and the other pair should have a single pulse wave once per rotation of the crank. You might have trouble detecting the pulse with a digital meter, an old fashioned analogue gauge will show it clearly.

"It acts as if it’s bogging down because of too much load. I haven’t personally shifted it through the gears on jackstands but I was able to drive it from the front to the back yard in first gear just fine while walking alongside it. But then when I got on it and tried to drive it, it tries to go but acts forced to shut off". Ok. That's interesting, and telling. Not sure what it's telling us just yet but it's going to be an important clue I think.. I wonder if there's something wrong with a brake cable or suspension part that's causing the brakes to come on and lock on when your weight puts the suspension down. I've seen brake shoes systems jam the brakes on because the backing plate was loose or the wheel could move backwards pulling the brakes on.. Normally if you got the brakes on so hard that it slowed the bike right to a stop the engine would have slowed to it's idle speed and the centrifugal clutch would have started slipping.. perhaps though if the brakes get jammed fully on fast enough the centrifugal clutch doesn't have time to let off.. Couple of things.. Try sitting on it and waddling/getting pushed forwards to see if the brakes jamb on. The plate clutch is connected to the shift lever and it gets disengaged when you push the lever up or down(to help gear changes when the centrifugal is locked up), so you can use the shift lever as a clutch lever if you only press down a little. If it's adjusted right it will slip the clutch before it changes the gear. You could use that feature to experiment a bit and try to see if the lockup is in the engine or in the gearbox.. Hopefully you will have eliminated brakes/suspension as a cause before then.

Oh.. That front brake I mentioned that might make the engine rev limit isn't right.. I meant to say the front brake lever that puts the park brake on, so the left lever.. not the right/front brake lever. The start inhibit can be over ridden by applying a brake light, right lever or foot pedal.

Yup, if they have boots they don't need routine greasing. They'll be greased for life.

And in relation to Gw's suggestion, I don't think the bike coming to a stop should cause the engine to stop abruptly because once the engine revs drop as the bike stops moving the centrifugal clutch should start slipping. So, do you think it's killing the engine because there's a wire somewhere that's seizing out because you are sitting on it, perhaps a wire shorting under the seat say, or because the bike moving causes a wire to short out ? Does it feel like the engine stops then stops the bike moving, or does the bike stop moving and then than engine stops because of that ? You should be able to detect that by the sound of the engine, whether it stops firing in a single firing, or whether the bike stops moving and as it's happening the engine sounds like it's labouring. And, after it's come to a stop, does it restart ? After it's stopped, can you push the bike forwards or backwards (try both directions) ?

And.. this bear tracker.. Is this four wheel drive or only two. If you give us the year, and model designation suffix, I could have a look in a service manual so I know what I'm dealing with.. I'm not familiar with yamaha.

Oh ok. So you need to figure out where in the engine, gears, driveshafts, wheels the problem is.. So.. You are saying it can be operated if it's jacked up ? But locks up when you try to drive it ? Right ? And so can it be operated in all the gears when it's jacked up ? When it locks up, does it grind to a halt over the foot or two, or does it come to an abrupt stop ? It'd be good to decide if it's something grinding to a seize, or a chunk of metal getting stuck in a gear. Does it always move the same distance before stopping, or can you get it to go further by driving with less throttle, or in a different gear ? Have you checked the oil for signs of metal, either steel flakes or dust ? I'm assuming that you have tried turning the driveshaft and rear diff, wheels while/when you were working on the driveshaft..

Better mention.. before you rip it apart.. haha.. The plate clutch can be adjusted. You should check the adjustment if the push test does indicate it's that playing up. There's no adjustment on the centrifugal clutch.

"after a foot or two and dies out and won’t drive. ". The engine isn't dieing is it ? It's just the drive stops happening and the engine revs freely ? Yes ? If it is that, then it will be one of the two clutches it has. They are probably accessible with the engine in place. You can test which one is slipping by putting it in a forwards gear and trying to push the bike forwards. If it's hard to push and tries to turn the engine over then the worn clutch is the centrifugal clutch, but if it pushes easily and doesn't turn the engine over it's the plate clutch that's slipping.

That's true too Gw.. The kill switch could have a partial short/contact caused by corrosion.

But it was the key switch you used.. That's the one that would logically have the problem.. You should/could try bridging the key switch with a small jumper wire.

Key or kill switch has dirty contacts/lost movement ? You would I presume have used one of the switches to turn it off between your ride, and the buddy arriving.

Yeah... So get posting.. You should be able to trace and check the continuity of the wires from the stator to the cdi by their colours, and confirming it's a good wire with a multimeter.. You could try a new spark-plug, and/or try removing the cap of it's lead and checking for spark. You could disconnect the kill switch, either at the switch or at the cdi(which would be better). These are all things the book is going to say to try.

7.31AM on the second day of 2025 here already.. World leaders we are.. Haha. Hope you all have a good year..

I must be looking at the wrong wiring diagram. If you can't find the PCM on that bike, it might not have one.. Maybe... If that is the case, check for 12v on a red wire on the back of the ignition switch..

Ok well you really need to get the service manual for it, and then check that the power from the two windings that run the cdi are getting from the stator connections to the cdi unit. I think your "ECU" is going to be the cdi. It will have an orange wire going to the ignition coil if I'm right. You could disconnect the kill switch wire from the cdi, at the cdi. Get the manual though.. It talks you right through the diagnostic process for no spark.

No I don't. They won't be hidden though. They will be easily accessible.

You should check the fuses..