Mech

You guys over-estimate America's importance in the world. N.Z doesn't bow down to anyone and we have good relationships based on mutual benefits.. not threats. You might be scared of China, but I'm not, and I don't think many if any New Zealanders are either. And I already like rice..

America isn't the dominant world power any longer guys, and it won't be no matter who you vote in. Trump is more likely to start a war than just about anyone else on the planet. Trouble is, it will be a war somewhere other than America, and though it might serve America's ends very well, it won't be doing the rest of the world any favours. I see Trump as a serious threat to world peace, and the planet.

Good one. That bolt looks just about ready to break !

Weak Johniii? I thought you said they were dictators. China's now doing what America has been doing for the last century, offering financial incentives to get what it want's in foreign countries, investing in countries it sees some benefit in having close relationships with. If you think that China's doing that as a result of American leadership, and more particularly some recent spate of your local politics, you need to get some education about China's long term plans they have been implementing for the last thirty years at least. New Zealand finds China far easier to work with and less protectionist regarding trade than America ever was. Trumps isolationist policies aren't going to advantage America on the world stage like you seem to think they will. It's a big world Johniii, and it extends well past America's borders. Trumps blustering on the world stage doesn't do him or America any credit, Biden's conciliatory approach does.

Now you're just generalising about leaders in general Johniii.

Trump's a bully. All bullies are cowards. If you stand up to a bully they will always try and get one of their underlings to do the fighting. Some underlings are stupid enough to try it. Foolish them. Some things are inexcusable and shouldn't be excused or defended. Bullying's one of them.

Use something thin to start with, a 24 thou feeler might do, , and get it right close to the bolt if you can. That gets the most leverage and will generally be the most effective. Then use two feelers or panel steel or such, then two bits of panel.. Getting the metal close to the bolt is the trick to getting a lot of leverage and a lot of drawing power. It might seem better to use a thicker bit of metal, which will give more travel of the bolt, but to start off you need the leverage of a thin bit close in. It will probably take the threads right out of the case so then you drill it and use an insert like these.. They self tap and you put them in using a bolt and nut, with something under the nut that's smaller diameter than the insert so you can wind it down just barely below the surface of the case. They come in different threads on the inside and the outside. Using course outer threads is slightly stronger, but the fine outer threads are smaller diameter and will probably be better for that job.

Hmmm.. There's a difference between a dictatorship and a democracy. There's a difference between leadership, and dictating.

The whole world's a mess.. It's what we humans do. What we need is less of the hate, less of the competition and greed, less of the consumption. It's time to end the rat race. As a resident of the world, I know which potential president I favour.

"trained professional", as we say when wielding the big hammer.

Since it's the last bolt, try levering the cover out a little somewhere else further away from the bolt, then slip some thin metal plate in and slide it along as near as you can get to that bolt, then push the cover back in so as to lever the cover over the metal plate. That will try and pull the bolt out, then slowly turn and lever and the bolt might get a grip and come out, or, it will just grind it's way out. if it comes a bit put a thicker bit of metal in and do it again. Use a wide bit of metal, not a screwdriver, so it doesn't damage the cases.

Oh ok, perhaps that owners manual I found was only for the Euro and Oceania markets..

It sounds like you have the stator battery charge and cdi connections sussed. I found it's a Lifan engine and they can come with gear position switches for neutral only, or, that indicate each gear, so that is what it will be. I haven't found a wiring diagram with your exact colours but if you put 152FMH-3 into google you will find plenty of leads to those engines, and if you put "Lifan 152FMH-3 gear position switch" you will find other people talking about them.

Oh I missed post #11 earlier Jim. There won't be a red with red stripe. I presume you've muddled two wires stripes up ? Can you check that for us. And I'll start looking through the about twenty candidate manuals I have tomorrow looking for anything that looks similar. We might have to confirm which stator wire is the charge for the battery, the charge for the cdi, and the pulse/trigger wire for the cdi by checking their resistance figures. The other five wires.. The only thing I can think of they could be is gear position switch, which you could check by using a ohms gauge while shifting through the gears. Most of those little Chinese engines don't have anything like that, but it's all I can think of. If it is a gear position switch that will narrow down the model the engine might have come out of considerably.

The photos in most manuals are generally pretty poor. The diagrams in parts listings, or the diagrams in the service manuals, are normally much easier to understand. What country are you in Beast ? The lacota is supposedly only for Euro and Oceania markets. I'm in New Zealand though and hadn't heard of one.. not that that means much.. haha.

Ok. And so was it the throttle safety switch causing the one spark ? We quite often see a one spark problem in here, on all sorts of makes, most of which don't have the throttle safety switch.

There is one Kazuma manual in the manuals section I see.. That will likely have the information you need. They don't have wiring diagrams as such but they have pictures. You need to save the pictures and then enlarge them to make out the wire colours. Then you need to study the pictures of where the wires go to figure out how the wiring is. If that manuals wires aren't the right colour, or the stator resistance specs aren't what you have, let me know what colours you do have and I'll try to find you the right pictures. Most of those makes I suggested use the same or similar engines and the same or similar wiring. I can probably match up a wiring diagram for you, but I need the colours.

I searched for a lacota service manual but couldn't find one, but there will be one out there somewhere.. A decent one.

If you can give us the colours of the wires on the stator Jim it might help identify the system. I have several wiring diagrams from those makes I suggested you look at, three of which are for Kazuma, and all of those generic engines use the same or similar wiring diagrams and stators, but they use different coloured wires.

Not getting at you in particular Beast, but for everyone reading through the thread... Service manuals, well the Jap ones anyway, are very well written, and tell us everything we need to know. Sometimes though we need to read right through them to garner the information we are after. Sometimes the information is mentioned in conjuncture with some other aspect of the bike. This is especially so with the diagnosis of fuel injection, electronic and and transmission diagnosis. The manuals are written for trained mechanics, and trained specifically on the make the manual relates to. The information we need as mechanics is always there somewhere though. It's always a good idea to read right through the manual from cover to cover familiarising yourself with how it's layed out and what is in there.. before starting to read any particular part that relates to what we are working on.

Reading through the manual I see they use a "breather chamber", which is presumably in behind or made up of that outer case. In most engines there is some sort of chamber to separate out the air from the oil as it breathes, and in most bikes that separation chamber is cast inside and a part of the crankcases and does have a spigot on the case for the hose to fit onto. In this case I think the hose is just meant to be a good fit into the case. The hole it goes into must be sealed and in communication with, or is, the "breather chamber". In the manual it's described in the emission control section... "1. Crankcase Emission Control System A sealed-type crankcase emission control system is used to eliminate blow-by gases. The blow -by gases are led to the breather chamber through the crankcase. Then, it is led to the air cleaner. Oil is separated from the gases while passing through the inside of the breather chamber from the crankcase, and then returned back to the bottom of crankcase.".

if there's no tube to the airbox to let air in if you drove into water, then the two dangling down tubes would suck water up when you drove into deep water with a hot engine. I'd run one of the hoses to the airbox. It is quite common to have a rubber lipped end in breather hoses to let air out but stop water getting in.

What colour are the wires down at the engine ?

View File 2006 Yamaha Bruin Owners Manual 2006 Yamaha Bruin Owners Manual YFM35BAV Submitter Mech Submitted 01/19/2024 Category Yamaha ATV  

And it appears that there are only Europe and Ociania versions, so that narrows things down a lot. The carbs change between 2005 and 2006. And the headlight bulb changes between 2004 1nd 2006, so take nothing for granted..