Mech

Do they make a kodiak with chain drive ? Does a timberwolf come with chain drive ? Anyone know what years a kodiak or bigbear or timberwolf come in chain drive ? Can we get an engine number for that engine ? That electrical section for a kodiak I posted says the cdi has three plugs I just noticed. The kodiak replacement cdi you have only has two plugs, so that's a bit tricky ! I see the timberwolf has trigger and cdi charge wires that are the colours I suspect I'm looking at there. Not sure though because I need confirmation about the stator colours and plugs shapes, and colours if possible. It all helps identify what you engine have. The cdi plug descriptions also.. How many wires being used and what the plugs are like.

When I look up the cdi unit for a kodiak model that after-market cdi is supposed to fit according to the ad, it shows two different part numbers, one for ca and another for 49, which I presume is 49 states. But.. It doesn't say it will fit any warrior, and when I look at the 350 warrior, it uses a different cdi. The yamaha part number they say it replaces, is a kodiak model, the ca, but then they say it fits a warrior, which uses another part number ! There are three different cdi units that cover that model range the ad says their cdi will fit. Different cdi have different pin-outs, plugs, wire colour, and wiring nearly always. Anyway.. Here's the electrical section out of the kodiak manual.. Check it carefully to see the wire colours and plug shapes match up. These diagrams should suit the yamaha cdi part number they say that unit replaces. 93-05Kodiak400.pdf

Ok then, it's a big bear then. But in some makes and models, depending where you are, it could be american, californial or canadian... or euro, GB, sweden, jap, kiwi, aussie, african, asian. They have subtle differences in the carbs, cdi and wiring sometimes. For working on those parts or for ordering parts in general, it's good to figure which you have by reading right through the service manual taking note which country variables they have. They mostly say early on in the manual what country versions there are. The carbs specs and the wiring diagrams also say what market or model they are for.

The starter circuit and the cdi and the brake and the neutral are all interlinked. Some models/systems the starter solenoid feed goes through the cdi. but only if it's in neutral or the brake is on. That may be your problem with the starter.. May be. Not all models/systems go through the cdi, but they still need the neutral or brake on.

" i wasnt sure what your question was. ".. Haha.. Ok. I admit it.. Nor do I. But I'm sure we'll get it sussed in the end. I think Fisherman just needs a wiring diagram that will do his cdi. I'll look in the years and models that cdi he bought fits, and see if I can find one with his plugs and wires,, In the morning..

I can't make out the colours of all those wires on the cdi. I can't make out how many wires there are. Is that a six and an eight pin plug ? And how many wires are fitted into them ? The three yellows go to the regulator right.. And coming out of the regulator there's a red and a grey looking wire. Is that grey going to a solenoid or is that just an earth point ? I'm pretty sure that should be to an earth and the red to battery positive. And so you do think your engine is from one of those bikes listed on the cdi ad ? And are the orange and white wire plug, and the brown and brown with a white strip wire plug, coming out of the stator ?

The critical thing is what sort of cdi unit you have. The stator and wiring has to suit that. The battery charging systems hardly vary and are a simple system. If the cdi unit has a short loom you could show us that and it might be quite simple to suss a wiring diagram. If the cdi unit had a part number it might help. If you have the wiring plug for the cdi with it's original colours it would help. If you tell us the colours of the stator wires it might help.

Oh ok. I generally look in partzilla. They always have the common names with suffix, though I think it's the american market and so not always the same model changes or years or names to elsewhere.

The yfm400 isn't any model Mga. It has to have a suffix. Look here.. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_atv_2000/parts If it's a 4WD it will have F as the first suffix digit, and in that year it will have either an M or an A as the first digit, depending on the model, to indicate it's 2WD. As Gw has suggested, the H normally indicates it's a hunter model with camo bodywork. So I'll ignore that one. When I open up the five likely models in babbits, and scroll down four clicks on each page, and then click from tab to tab to see each page, the first thing I notice is that three of the models are belt drive and two are manual transmission. And the three belt drives all have A as their second suffix digit and the manuals all have M as their second suffix digit. A for auto and M for manual I would imagine. So, depending on whether your bike is belt or manual transmission you could eliminate some of the babbit pages and carry on scrolling down and clicking from tab to tab watching for the flicker that indicates one of the diagrams has changed, and then checking your bike to see which of that change is like your bike. I can't do that for you.. You need to do that. Once you have found the model and it's suffix, then you down load a or several service manuals(because some manuals are printed for specific markets) and start comparing carbs specs or wiring diagrams. The wiring diagrams are the most variable and you need to check the colours of the wires, which as Gw has said do tend to be common a lot of the time, but if the manual has the shape and colour of the connecting plugs that will indicate which model you have. They change the plugs if they change the cdi or regulators or stators with another one with the same colour wires. The colours of the wires alone can catch us out, but the combination of colours of wires, and colour and shape of the connector plugs will only match one model. Check the cdi and stator plugs and wires. If you go through checking what's fitted to your bike you will figure the model with suffix, and what market it was made.

The idle fuel jet has to have the right size air jet to go with it, and they both have to be suitable for the mixture adjusting screw, which can have different diameter and taper needles, and, the main and it's air jet have to be matched and suit the slide, slide needle and discharge/emulsion tube, and both those different fuel ranges, idle and main, both have to be suitable/matched for one other. The low speed air and fuel jets have to suit the air and fuel main jets. And whole carbs, even when everything is set up and mixes well with no flat spots or wasted fuel, needs to matched to the type of engine it's fitted to. Road bike carbs are set up different to work bikes or scramblers. Even twin cam cam engines are different set up to the same engine with a single cam, not because of the cam specifically, but because of the different power band they've used the twin cam or single cam to achieve. It is best to stick with what the manufacturer has gone to so much trouble sorting out for us. Oh yeah. I don't think the ignition timing will be out either.. I was just saying it does make the plugs burn whiter.

Could you understand what I was saying in #2 about looking at babbits photos Gw ? I ask because it was hard to explain and I wasn't sure I'd made it clear ? It's the quickest way I've found to zoom in on the year and model. Then the wiring seems to really pinpoint the market and exact model.

Use that autoevolution site and figure which year range you have, then go to babbits and start looking at the options, then check the differences against your bike. Air-cleaner ducting varies, headlights vary, carbs vary, cdi units vary, body colours vary.. lots of things vary. Most of the mechanical procedures stay the same and apart from carb setup and ignition and charging systems you can just follow any close manual. If you look at a wiring diagram of the bike you think you have, and compare that to your bike, it generally is the most accurate way to match up the model I think. They change wire colours and wiring plug colours and shapes a lot. They change them because they change the cdi and way they are wired a lot.. but that is more difficult to figure out. If you find a diagram with all the right shaped plugs and wire colours in a manual near your model it will probably be the bike you have. That will identify what international market your bike was made for. If you give us the vin number I can try and tell you roughly what bike you have, but you'll have to confirm it's exact specs by figuring it out.. Or.. go ask a yamaha dealer.

There are stickers, mostly on the top frame rail I think on yamaha, and there's a frame or vin number which incorporates some information about the specs, but that doesn't directly translate to the suffix they apply to the common name of the model. If you look in a manual it tells you where the vin and model sticker is. There are, and I have, long lists of vin and model numbers online, but they don't include every bike. I've got just over four-hundred model designations for yamaha quads. I got them online from various places. The model number tells us what the common name and suffix is, but it still doesn't spell out what that exactly means. The manufacturers also use suffix letters or numbers to indicate the bike was made, but the different manufacturers all use different letters and they don't follow the vin convention. The year digit in a vin is nearly never the same as the year digit in a suffix. Yamaha model codes are something like 3GDG in the VIN and 3GD on the model sticker. The best way to verify what it means is to follow that process looking at parts diagrams I suggested. Try it and you will see it works really well once you have the different models all enlarged to the same amount so the diagrams overlay one other as you flip from tab to tab on your browser.

Being too advanced with the ignition timing, or having too hotter plug will beoth make the porclain white, but the spitting backfiring out the inlet does sound like lean. Try your hand across the inlet. Oh, and check the air jets are still in the back of the carb. There should be two brass jets you can see right where the air-cleaner fits on.

This is quite a good site for sussing the model year differences.. though it might be a little americancentric. https://www.autoevolution.com/moto/yamaha/

if you look on partzilla parts online they use the common names and the model suffix, so you can figure out what it all means. If you look the bikes up in Babbits spares it has pictures of all the parts diagrams right in the first page for that bike. That page can be enlarged slightly in your screen(by holding shift and scrolling the wheel possibly), then once you have several bikes opening pages with all the diagrams showing at the same enlargement rate, you will find the pages click down so you can have each page as you click to it, lined up. Then you jump back and forwards from one bike page to another and you see the changed items in the diagrams because they flicker and catch your eye. Then you scroll down each bikes page by three clicks and jump from another page again watching for the flicker of something in those new diagrams that's changed. There is one complication though, a certain letter in some position in a suffix one year, might not be the same meaning in that same place, or some other place, in a suffix another year. F generally means 4WD and has done so for years. 2WDs have used different suffix in different years. All the other letters it's best to just check in the relevant year.

AGM don't have water to boil away from being at 14.5 volts for long periods of time. I don't think they would really like being held at 14.5 for too long though. Starter batteries are made for high discharge for a brief time, and to then be topped up and only run(or charged) for a limited period of time. Deep cycle batteries for power supplies and stand-by power get charged to 14.5 for an hour or four and then throttled back to 13.6, which they can sit at indefinitely with just an occasional top up of water. If they get charged at 14.5 they get hot, and also bubble a lot, and use a lot of water, and are probably damaging the plates. Bubbling is physically hard on the plates. Modern smart chargers these days though, and especially those maintenance type chargers, will all most certainly throttle the voltage off to about 13.6 after an hour or two of 14.5. Trojan batteries has a lot of interesting reading about batteries and their maintenance and performance and all sorts of stuff. .

The recommended rate of charge for a lead acid battery is amps at ten to twenty percent of the amp-hour rating of the battery. I'm not sure what the rate is for AGM but it's probably at the lower end of those figures. Once a battery is charged, even a car size battery, then two amps is plenty of amps. Two amps is what a car battery will take to keep it's voltage up to 14.5 volts. Two amps is quite a lot for a maintenance charge and would likely make it use water. A good battery shouldn't loose more than ten percent of it's charge in a month, which is so little that it doesn't harm or take life cycles out of the battery's life. A battery life has a certain number of discharge cycles, but they only consider it a cycle if the battery gets below eighty percent of it's capacity. You P5200 could just connect your charger once a month for between four and eight hours and it will be plenty enough to keep the battery fully charged. Two to four hours will probably be enough even.

Yeah Gw's right about using the easy-out. If you drill it out too much the easy-out will spread the screw if it's tight and make things worse. Drill it a bit and then try the easy-out. Then if it doesn't turn drill it further. As long as you get the hole real well centered you can drill them fairly thin. I prefer to use an old fashioned egg-beater drill because it's slow and delicate drilling. Heat on the aluminium does help as well.. I've found the most effective part of it though is tapping the outside of that aluminium tube, and if you have thin lube down the hole, the tapping helps it work down the threads even if you don't spread the metal to enlarge the hole. Lube and tap it then drill it, then use an easy-out, or drive a small steel jewelers screwdriver into the hole.. The screwdriver won't spread the hole as much as the easy-out.. if you choose the right size drill and screwdriver.

You've got the slide needle "lifted to the top slot" ? I hope you mean you have the needle lifted, which would be with the clip in the lowest groove on the needle. You want the needle raised, not lowered.. Have you completely stripped and checked the carb right over, checked every jet and O ring is in there, and that they seem to be about the right sizes/in the right proportions between the fuel jet and it's corresponding air jet, that the float level is right, and that plenty of fuel is getting in through the float needle ? It will be either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much air.. If you put your hand across the back of the carb and only let a bit of air in between your fingers, will it rev up then ? The genuine carbs nearly always run better than any after=market one. I'd try fixing the old one. I've got the idle mixture screws out before by drilling them. First though, most of the screws are in a sort of aluminium tube, and it's often just a thin walled tube in part. Often at the front side of the screw's tube there is a thin walled bit. If you gently tap that bit, as much as is possible, with a punch and tiny hammer, before you drill the screw out, you can spread the metal and expand the hole slightly. Because the screw is only fat where the threads are, you can expand most of the metal that's around the threads. If you look at a mixture screw you'll see the threads only go down a certain way before the needle starts, and the spring is. That's the part that's seized and we can tap the tube around quite a bit of that. When/if you do drill, don't drill so deep that the drill hits the spring. Drill it first with a very tiny drill and stop if it's not exactly in the center. If it's off center, drill that shallow drilling out with a slightly larger drill so that you can then go back to the smaller drill again and drill at an angle with it to correct the centering. Once the tiny drill is getting across to the center position you enlarge the holes and then go back to the tiny one again. Keep doing that. By putting the tiny drill down a slightly larger hole you can realign things. Once you have a hole going down to the right depth and in the center then you drill it out to a size that will just leave a thin wall of threads and then use an easy-out or a screwdriver driven gently in to wind the weakened screw out. The screws are soft and drill easy. Once the center is out of them they loose their grip in the hole. Oh.. It normally only effects them at revs, but a blocked exhaust won't let it suck air in, and will give a lot of back pressure and so make it spit out the carb. There's a difference though between spitting back out the carb, and backfiring back out the carb. Spitting is back pressure, and backfiring is mainly caused by lean mixture.

Hi to you too. Welcome along.

Welcome along. Stay safe on that beast. Here's a suggestion since you've just started riding quads.. They don't behave like two wheelers.. When you are cornering hard and lean into it, if you put your weight on the inside wheel, that wheel will get more traction and try to force the bike around in the opposite direction to which you are trying to turn. To corner you do lean into the corner, but you keep the weight on the outside foot and lean right over the bike to the inside of the corner. You'll find that it will corner much better that way. Have fun..

T for top and F for firing.

I think the biggest problem would be figuring which wire is meant to go to which pin on the new cdi. None of the diagrams show the plugs with wire colours, and it's highly likely that they will have changed the pin-outs.. they do that ! Unless you had a newer bikes wiring loom to check which colour is in which position in the cdi plug, it would be trial and error.

Are you sure there isn't a bad wire to terminal, or terminal to cdi pin connection ? Wires sometimes break inside the insulation right where they get crimped into the terminal. You can generally tell because the wire is floppy because it's only being held together by the insulation. Other than that, try pinching the terminals a little tighter where they fit into/onto the cdi.