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Mech

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Everything posted by Mech

  1. The shift lever fits on a shaft down the left side of the engine, near the back... You can use it to get home, and they say to see if the shift motor is trying to work but weak, use the button while you put gentle pressure on the lever. You can check there are all five speeds too, and other tests..
  2. The book doesn't say to take the drive shaft out. Have you downloaded the genuine honda service manual, that will no doubt be here in the manuals section ?
  3. It would have come with a shift lever in the toolbox I think. You might be able to score one somewhere..
  4. You do need to remove the shift motor and gears according to the manual I'm looking in. They describe it as the "ESP" models (electric shift program), and that's what yours is. Good work getting into it though given your difficulties. Well done.
  5. Well it's steel at least.. A high grade bolt with a flange under the head, done up real tight, will keep it on hopefully.
  6. Haha.. I know what it's like. I've got two sons, and I muddle their names !
  7. Have a look here with your frame number ready and you will be able to tell if you have an A or 2A.. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/c/honda_atv_2007/parts
  8. So you just need a key and bolt it back together ? It looks like the seat where the star washer sits or the shift drum is a bit worn ? As long as the washer sits nicely on the shift-drum again it looks like it should be ok. And yes I've seen the bolt loose, and those pins the ratchet works on can come out in some bikes. It's good nothing got down into the sump.
  9. Can't find any reference anywhere to a 300 bayou being water cooled.. Looked back and forwards several years in the parts lists, and looked at the model development..
  10. Hmmm.. We have a problem.. Here are the parts listings for that model from Babbits and Partzilla. They both think it's an air cooled engine. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/l/kaw/500ae675f8700209983b6416/1996-bayou-300-4x4-klf300-c8-parts https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/atv/1996/bayou-300-4x4-klf300-c8 I see the 400 is watercooled..
  11. I'm in New Zealand. I've been riding suzukis for years.
  12. Well I looked up that bike in the parts sites and it shows it as having a "Double Clutch Transmission", which is described as DCT. Then I tried to find a manual and the nearest manual I could find is the owners manual for the same bike from 2020, so I looked up the 2020 model, and it has the same running gear, a DTC transmission. So.. that bit I posted is describing what to do about faulty gear shifts in the 2020 model, which, as far as I can figure, is the same as your bike.
  13. The manual I have covers from 1986, and so this supplement is saying that most of the your bike, apart from the things mentioned in this supplement, is the same as the 1986 model service manual. It's worth noting though that this manual is not a genuine yamaha manual.. I think it's a trustworthy manual though.. output.pdf
  14. Could only find an owners manual so far.. But it's for the 2020.. Probably right.. Check this pdf and see if it is the same as your model. Try the tests they say.. 2020 Rubicon 520.pdf And I see it doesn't say you can drive it home.. That was older models.
  15. You should check the shift cable is moving the shift lever down on the engine full travel. I don't think that will be the problem though because that bike has a power shift (electrical/hydraulic). I think it might have a place on the left side of the engine where you can fit a foot shift lever to test the gears and to get you home if the electrical or hydraulic systems that do the normal shifting plays up. They say to fit that lever and try manual shifting early on in the long and complicated diagnosis process.. So if that lever is in the tool kit, fit that and try driving manually. I'll see if I can find a service manual.
  16. When you are pulling the cylinder up, wrap a rag around the con-rod to stop broken ring falling into the crankcase !!
  17. Some carbs have a short straight screw in fitting for the cable too.. That cable might be meant for that..
  18. That's right Anthony.. Welcome along. What country are you in, and what do you ride ?
  19. Do you have the old cable to compare length to ? Are you sure the outer cable is pushed right in to the fittings ? Can you get the plunger on without the spring ? Does the spring perhaps need to go up inside the elbow ? Perhaps it needs a skinnier spring, Perhaps it needs a different elbow. Maybe that cable is made for a model without the elbow.. Guessing here.. haha.
  20. Oh.. Now you need a spares bike to fix that one up. I'm familiar with the problem.
  21. Bad rings.. or badly blown cylinder head into the chain case.
  22. They are (comparatively speaking) fairly simple. And the access is better than some. Yell out if you have any doubts about any of it. Check and/or test things at every stage of the reassembly, and backtrack if you think you need to, sooner than later.
  23. Good weather to read the manual then...
  24. I can't think how it would/could cause it, but I think I'd suspect the neutral light switch. I'd test that idea by by-passing the switch with a piece of wire I could earth out. If it worked normally with the wire earthed then I'd figure the switch was not making proper contact.
  25. Ok, too tight at least means the valve isn't bent.. haha.. or stuck open. Probably burnt.
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