Mech

Have you checked the fuel pressure ? They need about 45-55 pounds pressure. Do you have the service manual ? Do you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on ?

Doh.. I'm an idiot.. The DCT is in another forum.. I really must pay more attention.. This bike is a five speed with an electric shift, and the usual centrifugal clutch and a plate clutch for shifting..

I'd leave the cover off and check the shaft that has the ratchet bit on it moves and turns the clutch.. then I'd figure what's wrong with the bevel gears.

#17.. That's for another transmission Gw.. That's a variable ratio hydraulic transmission they call an "auto". (Edited to correct my confusing forums and bikes.). haha

You don't need the primer spray. That makes it set faster, but at reasonable room temp it's set by the time you've finished putting your tools away. In hot weather it takes about ten minutes, on a cold day twenty minutes, but it's oil tight immediately unless there is oil pressure, then allow the ten or twenty minutes. Cut the nozzle end off so the hole is only about 1/16 diameter, then use it to smear a thin layer, real thin, over most of the surfaces. It will squeeze and spread sideways a little and you will know you've used enough and that the surfaces have mated when the excess sealer squeezes out of the join. If the mating surface is about 1/4" wide run a 1/16" bead and then spread it around with the tip of the nozzle. You don't have to get it on every bit of the surface, it will squeeze sideways. Make sure you go right around bolt holes. And after you've used it a few times you will realise that the 1/16' bead is heaps for that 1/4" flange.. I use less than that. I hold the syringe perpendicular to the surface and just smear a real thin layer over most of the surface.. That stuff has never let me down..

So the kick lever won't push down ? It's a pretty simple ratchet mechanism, I'd check that part was installed correctly and that that shaft could move and turn the engine, then I'd assemble the other shaft and gears..

haha.. I dunno but I had the same problem.. I went to make a post and it somehow got that vid in my post.. I cancelled the post becuase it kept doing it. The site has another problem the other day too. I reported to the Admin and he had it fixed in about an hour.. Contact the Admin.. I'd try using the manual shift lever and the buttons at the same time. If the shift motor is a bit weak your manual input will assist it to make the shift.. If the motor is trying to do the shift, you'll feel it assist your manual shift. If the motor isn't working at all, you will hopefully notice that. I think if you try a manual upshift, while pushing the down button, the two will fight oneother and you'll feel that.. I think.

You can test the clutches to a degree.. You need to have the shift/plate clutch adjusted first. If adjusting it doesn't cure the slow take off problem, put the bike into first gear, and try pushing it forwards..If it feels like the clutch is slipping doing that then it will be the shift/plate clutch slipping. If it tries to turn the engine and doesn't feel like the clutch slips, then the slow take off is probably the centrifugal clutch worn out.

Step four.. output.pdf

Remember the codes, then clear them and go for a drive.. They may not come back now. And well done.. That is a good one..

Some models have a join in the earth wire hidden away inside the loom.. They can actually have several crimp earth connectors, and power connectors, hidden inside the loom. Oh, and some makes and models they do suggest resistance test and an output test.. It's not new. I always do an output test whether I have a figure for it or not..

I just read a couple of comparable model manuals and it just says "Pull the axle out"...

Hi. That 9mm play must be happening somewhere other than the circlip in it's groove, the side gears in the diff perhaps. My guess (educated guess. fifty years mechanicing), is that it needs jiggling etc and pulling firmly by hand, then a second person ( or be very dexterous ), to give that tiny tapered edge on the cv a sharp bump.. Sort of jamb a small bar in there, lever and push slightly, then give the bar a lever by bumping it with the palm of your hand.. You'd know how they are.. you can get it on the first try or the fiftieth.. Sure doesn't seem to be anything about the design of that cv. I have heard of people breaking the whole side out of front diffs before though.. Don't ask me how.. but they did.. So be gentle.. Sharp bump with the palm.. Suppose you know what a bearing splitter is.. Used in pressing.. Two halves that bolt together and wedge bearings along shafts.. One of those would hold it and you could improvise a slide hammer..

Get a service manual and it will spell out the diagnosis process and most of the information you need. A lot of manuals only tell you the resistance of the windings, but if the magnets or trigger plate have fallen off the flywheel then there isn't going to be any power or trigger induced. I always put a gauge on to check the flywheel is turning and the magnets etc are still there and inducing some current. Exactly how much current doesn't really matter as long as the resistance is correct on the coils. The trigger pulse is very short and some digital gauges don't detect it. It's better to use an analogue gauge because you will see the needle flicker strongly. And.. did you check the cdi and coil both have an earth ? Did you check for continuity from cdi to coil ?

Have you checked it's got a spark at the plug ? If you try to start it, then pull the spark plug, is it wet with fuel ? Are you sure the fuel is fresh ? Does it have compression ? When the plug's out, can you keep your finger sealed in the hole while you use the starter ?

Have you checked the earths ? Especially the cdi and coil, but they have to be connected to the frame, battery and engine eventually, so you need to check all the earths everywhere.. Continuity from cdi to coil ?

Yes it sounds like the sprag clutch is slipping. Those often come right with a good wash. The tiniest bit of metal dust is enough to make then slip.. Did I say metal dust.. !!

The centrifugal clutch is on the left/upper and has shoes that fly out. The front/outer plates are not really wearing parts, they are there to keep the shoes in place, The wearing part, and the part where the heat got generated, is the shoes and the drum. There will be a measurement for the shoe thickness, and the drum you inspect. The old heat should be fine.. 500FEpng 500FEpng Just testing my computer skills.. Haha.. skills.. hahahahah Well that worked well then.. Not. How do we insert a picture ?

Mr Wheelie might have done one too many.

Yeah Gw's right about telling them. They might be decent.. I'm picking a "burnt oil" filled exhaust...

Afterthought.. Hopeless bloody mechanics didn't leave the throttle with too much play did they ? It is getting full throttle ? You can check that by giving it full throttle, (engine off of course), and then pulling the cable outer, out, up at the hand piece.. If it comes out then the inner isn't pulling the throttle right open to it's stop.

Disconnect the exhaust at the head and go for a blast... Yes the engine could be hard to start if the valves had too little clearance..

The "master gasket", is 518 Gw.. Beautiful stuff.. Did I tell you about.........

You need to read up on "voltage drop test". Some polaris manuals have a good description and explanation. The web also has it. Then you need to find where the bad connection is that's causing the voltage to drop when a load comes on it.