Mech

I mostly use my quad for work, carrying myself and equipment to places on the land, and it's steep hilly land so a lot of it turns into a bit of an adventure, but when my sons were young we made a mud hole with a skid pan next to it and we had so much fun and so many laughs over there. Mud is good !

There are several overlapping transition points in those carbs. Under the butterfly when it's closed there are two holes in the venturi. One hole's exposed to full vacuum and the one nearer the air-cleaner end is at close to atmosphere when they are at a slow idle. Both holes are connected. At idle the idle jet and idle air jet supply fuel/air mix to the idle mixture screw. The screw controls how much of that fuel/air mix gets mixed with the other air, the air coming in through the discharge hole under the slide that's nearer the air cleaner. The highly diluted fuel/air mixture then gets discharged through the discharge hole nearer the engine. Then, as the slide rises a little,fuel starts to get drawn out of both those holes which reduces the amount of air being drawn in through the air cleaner side hole, the air that was diluting the idle mixture, and so it makes that mixture slightly richer, and discharges it out of both holes so it really does supply a heap more fuel. That's the first of the transition points. That transition from one discharge hole to two prevents stumbling just off idle. If we adjust the mixture with the slide too high then fuel is getting discharged through both holes and we have to wind the mixture screw in too far to compensate for that, which then causes a stumble/flat spot when we d try to open the throttle. It's important when adjusting the mixture that we have the slide down as far as possible. Somewhere in that system is probably where your problem lays. The other transition points are controlled by, first the slide cut away, and then the emulsion tube's holes and the capacity of fuel in the drilling the emulsion tube is in. It's important to clean the tiny holes in the emulsion tubes side, and the drilling it goes in if it has crud in it reducing it's capacity for fuel. The tiny holes in the emulsion tube start off being covered with fuel at low throttle settings and that fuel is drawn into the tube along with fuel from the main jet and discharged past the slide needle, but as the fuel consumption increases with throttle opening the drilling starts to empty and more of the tiny holes are exposed allowing air to be drawn through them diluting the mixture being discharged out past the slide needle. Eventually the main jet is controlling the amount of fuel being drawn in and the tiny holes are mixing air into that fuel so that the fuel being discharged past the slide needle is diluted. That process gives a rich mixture as we open the throttle, but then leans it after a short time when the drilling for the emulsion tube is emptied. The overall effect is similar to an accelerator pump. At 1/8 throttle it's probably not transitioning from one hole to two holes under the butterfly. Set the idle speed as low as it can be and keep adjusting the mixture till it's ticking over nice and slow on the idle speed screw, and at the best mixture point, neither too rich or too lean. Then use the idle speed screw to bring the idle speed up to what it's meant to be. Try not to adjust the idle mixture after that. If the jets and the slide cut-away is right, and the float level is right, the two discharge holes should work as an enrichener as you start to open the throttle.

Keep posting and you can download the manual..

You should put your hand up Quad.. You sound like you'd be the man. If they are all as bad as you say, you'd be a sure bet surely.

There are sometimes two lines going across the sight glass, one just above half way up and the other just below half way up. You're meant to put the oil in, run the bike for a couple of minutes, turn it off and wait for about a minute, and then check it's between the lines.

Well if it's the same belt, and same parts that came off there, there's only one conclusion I can come to.. You've assembled it wrong. Take it apart and inspect every part for wear marks that might coincide with some other wear mark and indicate where it had sat before. There's generally some visual indication that parts have been in contact before. Then if you can't find anything, reassemble it following the diagrams. If the service manual doesn't have a very clear diagram look it up in a parts place online, they usually have good diagrams, and sometimes they say what thickness washers etc are. Other than that, see what there is in the way of spacers or sleeves that have got muddled and could/might account for the 3/8 discrepancy.

Here's the instructions for the 550.. Hisun..pdf

To check the resistance readings you use an multimeter on the ohms setting. You just set the gauge to the right ohms range then put the two gauge leads to the two wires on each plug and note what the gauge says. Those last pdf say the kodiak did have that eight/six plug setup.. And if the advertisers of the cdi say it fits warrior and kodiak of similar years, then perhaps it will work. All the warrior diagrams I've seen have said they had pigtails, but that might be because they were for the American market. It could be that some other country used the cdi you have, or perhaps it's only the CA models.. The parts books say it's only the CA that has that cdi. I wouldn't recommend rushing off buying more parts yet. I'd figure what stator was in that bike first. There are two obviously different stators, one model has a series of windings all the same size, and another model has several all the same size and one big winding. Do you remember, or do you have an old one you can show us ? If you don't have a multimeter you should get one, and check the resistance readings. I'd recommend you buy an analog gauge, that's one with a needle. They are getting harder to find but they are more useful for checking pulse/trigger windings, and plenty accurate enough for bike work. Cheap analogue gauges here in N.Z are sometimes as little as $10 N.Z.

No, because I'm not sure what model bike you have. You could download a manual, which will be handy for you to have, or you could likely find out what oil it needs and how much from an oil company site.

It seems the warrior cdi, with pigtails, has a lot different stator windings than the Bigbear with the plugged cdi.. Different design and different resistances. Better check what the stator's cdi charge windings and cdi pulse.trigger windings are..

Yeah the headlight helps if the regulator isn't working, but the regulator can be not working because the battery is dud, or because an earth to the regulator isn't good, or because the wire taking the power from the regulator to the battery is crook. It may not be a faulty regulator. I'm in New Zealand and we have different charging systems to the American models, but our regulators seem absolutely bullet-proof. I've seen it claimed over there that all suzuki regulators are absolute rubbish and should be ditched for an after market as soon as you get the bike. But that's only one guy says that, and he always tells people not to check the earths or power wire, that it is always only the regulator.I think that's a stupid attitude and bad advice. Check the charging as I suggested and it will show up any of the faults I suggest it could be. If the power wire from the regulator is broken or got a bad connection the voltage won't rise. If the earth wire's broken or got a bad connection it won't regulate. If it charges, and regulates, the system's fine.. but it won't be probably because of your symptoms. I've seen it heaps of times..

So.. I noticed the BB diagram I'd posted had the wrong plugs.. Dunno what happened there. After much searching I've found several BB diagrams with the right six and eight pin plugs. Wrong coloured wires, and that #16 off to the right of the cdi, it's a speed sensor ! Bet yours hasn't got that. Anyway. Have a look and see if the wiring seems like any of these. I've included one complete wiring diagram so you can see what all the other bits are. The brake and front/park brake wires going to #10 and #12 aren't really needed as long as you have the neutral switch connected. #10 and #12 allow it to start in gear as long as a brake is on. The bits highlighted in white are the essential bits for it to run and kill. 00-05bigbear-kodiak400.pdf FWAM.pdf 00-05bigbear-kodiak400-full diagram.pdf

Most bikes I jack up and rest them on their pegs, with a block under front and rear in the center to stop them rocking.

I posted a bigbear pdf of the wiring diagram and it has the right colours, or the same colours without stripes.. It shows which pin on the cdi goes where so you can wire it to suit that I think. The different models have at least three different stator winding systems that I know of, and all three types come with different wire colours, plugs, and internal connections. If your wires and plugs match, it's likely that you will have comparable stator and cdi. The pdf also has the stator resistance readings.

It's meant to have an O ring under there. It may be that the O ring has gone hard and possibly flattened. It's also possible that the cover has got distorted around where the nuts are as the cover has been drawn down onto the O ring. Take the cover off and rub it on a bit of wet and dry paper on a flat surface. Check if it's sanding on the three corners before anywhere else, and if is touching on the three corners then keep rubbing till the contact is all the way around. They use a new O ring.

It might have been a dud thread Mga, but if you think you over tightened it there is a way to learn the right torques, and what they feel like with different length spanners. If you have a torque wrench you put a socket with a locked up bolt and nut in it on the wrench and mount the torque wrench in a vice, then use a spanner to get the feel of several different torques you might use for bolts that size. Then use some bigger and smaller spanners, with their sized bolts and nuts, to get a feel for various different torques that might be used with those spanners and bolts. An hour or so of testing, and a refresher after a while, and you will get good at estimating what different torques feel like with the different length spanners.

Check the charge regulation at the battery. Before starting the battery should be about 12.5 volts, a couple of minutes after start up it should be 13.5 and after a while it should top out at about 14.5 volts. If it's not charging, or charging to high, you need to check the wiring to and from the regulator, earths and power. If the power to and from the battery, and the earth is good, then the regulator is probably playing up. I say probably because they don't normally come right after a half hour of running.. It could be getting warm and then functioning properly, or some bad connection or a dud battery could be causing it.

Oh yeah. I looked in euro parts and their years seem to be a year or two behind yanky ones, but the warrior's still had pigtail cdi even in the later years. The big bear seems like the closest we can find. I think that diagram is going to be the one you will have to use. It shows where each stator wire goes in the plug pinout diagram. I think you should check the resistances of the stator wires and check they seem right for the bigbear cdi system. If they are then hopefully it will all work ok and not blow the cdi... haha. I'd suggest changing the stator if the resistances weren't right, except that might also need a different flywheel too.. They'd do that ! And to check a different flywheel was right, you'd have to use a magnet and check the polarity of the magnets and the key position.. It would be quite a mission.

I've done that before. It's what I normally recommend.. Swap every brass bit and the slide needle from the oem to the aftermarket and they aftermarket often runs good. There are only a couple of reasons for biffing the oem, badly worn slide or throttle spindle, or seized idle mixture screw(which is I think the most common problem). And the slides have to be pretty worn to be a problem. I suppose you have checked the throttle cable has free play Bobby ? As Gw says, look through the carb and make sure the throttle plate is closed right off. And check the choke is going right off. The choke plungers can be different designs in after market. Some have a needle and some are flat ended.

The warriors in the years they say it fits all seem to have pigtails and round plugs. Kodiaks have three plugs, bigbears have eight and four pin plugs. I can't find a cdi with eight and six, not in warrior or kodiak of that year range anyway.. But then, I haven't found a manual for any of those exact model suffix that say either. I've found kodiak manuals in the right year and engine size but they've all been shaft drive. I've found warriors in the years and engine but they've all been pigtail.. I'm wondering if those YFM suffixes were only is some particular market.. Asian or euro perhaps. Still looking..

Different fuels, different exhausts(spark arrestor), different emission requirements, climate considerations, usage considerations, demands from the customers, safety requirements(like daytime running lights), servicing considerations. As far as vehicles in general go, the market makes a lot of difference in some makes and models. The LT suzukis we get here are exclusive to N.Z. Then, N.Z practically invented quads ! And two wheeler farm bikes.

So top plug and bottom plug are what plug into the cdi ? Well I haven't found a diagram yet of a cdi with a six and eight pin plug.. Some have an eight, six and a four pin plug.. I've got the diagram for a 97YFM350X warrior but it's cdi has pigtails, and round three and four pin plugs. 2002 YFM350 warriors have plugs on the cdi but they are eight and four pin. Ii seem a bit oddball. The cdi replaces a cdi for the ca market, so it should be common and we should have manuals for it. I'll keep looking.

Howdy. Welcome along. This is a good forum.. Plenty of manuals, good admin, lots of knowledgeable people.

Who ? What happened ? I didn't see nothing... Yeah, family comes first even if it isn't an emergency. This is for a bigbear but the plugs and colours look right for the cdi. 1990-Bigbear-350.pdf

Looking in kodiak, bigbear and warrior I can find the right coloured wires, but then the plugs are wrong.. I can find the right plugs(I think), but then the colours are wrong. I can find the right wires but for a shaft drive. We need to identify that engine.