Mech
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Everything posted by Mech
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Yeah the thing on the shaft with the blue arrow pointing at it works like a racthet to rotate the shift drum/barrel around to change gears. The forked spring at the top of that piece shown has to be engaged onto a pin in the case, one leg of the spring either side of the pin so it self centers the shift shaft between changes.
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Right.. So unless you split the cases and had the gears out, it does look likely that you will have a problem inside the side case..
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Oh ok. And would this have an interlock on reverse ? I suppose I should look in a manual.. haha.
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I think that the "success" mark is so that when people come in with a problem they can search for it being mentioned before and then see which ones were reported as having being cured. It is gratifying to be accredited with the right solution, and to receive thanks from appreciative people (thank you Bobby), but since this one is cured and therefore a useful reference to someone else, perhaps you could just mark your last report back as containing the solution. As for the result.. It probably means, if you are absolutely sure you've had the thing completely stripped down and replaced every O ring, that it needs a bigger main jet or a smaller main air jet. They should be jetted so the needle sits in the center position.
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Is this a five speed manual with a clutch, or a belt drive system ? What is the "rod" you replaced ?
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Running engine without rear axle 2005 500 scrambler?
Mech replied to p5200's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
Yeah it should be no trouble. I'd take the chain right off to make sure it didn't somehow mysteriously get drawn around and perhaps bunched up near a crankcase doing some damage. You'd want to keep on eye on ventilation and on the temp if it's in some place without good ventilation. -
There might be a bit of the old bearing cup showing that you can use a punch against to knock it out, or there will be some cut-aways in the aluminium cup seat. It's important to work right the way around the cup as you knock it out. If the cup gets cocked over as it's coming out or going in it will jamb, and if you keep hitting it then it will chew out and distort the bore it's in. It's very important they get hit out and in nice and squarely. If it jambs stop and check which side needs to be tapped to get it straight again, and if need be, tap it back the other way to straighten it up before proceeding..
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Yeah a big socket, the old cup of the bearing, flat metal, any thing that will get it down to the right level... As long as it goes in square, without getting tilted, it's fine. Same with the bearing cup, you have to make sure to tap it down a little at a time all the way around so it doesn't get at an angle. And they sound different once they get to the bottom of the hole. If the bearing's still moving down it sounds slightly dull, and when it gets bottomed out it rings sharply.
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Yeah, start it with a hammer till it gets down flush and then use a thin punch that won't touch the edge of the cup where the bearing is going to touch. The bearing cup is hard but an engineer's punch is harder and can deform the edge of the cup. If you use a soft bolt to knock it down the last bit you won't harm the cup though.
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Thick oil helps in a worn engine that has white-metal/shell bearings, but it doesn't help with roller bearings, and if it's in a cold climate it can get pumped slow at startup and it can even strain the oil pump. I think people have heard that thicker oil helps in old cars.. and so assume it will help in a bike as well.
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It's good idea to go right over a new bike checking everything and doing what ever's needed, and then hopefully getting a reliable service out of it. You'll get to the end of if eventually. Seals can be tapped in with a hammer. The bearing cones will probably need an engineers punch. You could make do with a long bolt with the threads sawn off so it ends in a flat face.
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And Gw's suggestion of a nut splitter is a good idea given it and the chisel are both the same price. Well... if it's ok quality anyway. The chisel doesn't have anything to go wrong, it can be resharpened, and it's handy for other purposes.
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One of those kits the bearings look like rubbish, bad finish, and no name. The amazon set have a better finish to them, part numbers(which most reputable bearings have) and I think I can see a name on them. Oh.. and I just saw the prices.. haha.
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Have you tried sliding the sprocket hub on from that right side ?
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Thick oil doesn't help bikes with roller crank bearings, they need good oil flow, not pressure. I'd stick with the manufacturers recommendations for your temperatures.
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If it hasn't been run in a long time the compression may come up after a good run.. If you can get it to run at that compression. If you put about a teaspoon of oil down the spark-plug hole and do another compression test and the comp comes up a lot it's got bad rings and so It probably will need work, but if it stays almost the same comp then it's likely just dirty valves. If you pull it over slowly listening at the carb and exhaust you might hear leaking valves.. might. The spark sounds like a faulty cdi unit. It's just possible though someone has connected things up incorrectly though so it needs diagnosing.
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Well done on the perseverance. That's strange about the right-left thing. Perhaps they changed the axle design somewhere along the way.
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Finger-tip feel will pick up what an eye can't see. I'd rub a fine flat file right round it making sure there wasn't a bit of raised metal. And, could it get caught on the back of the hub ? If the splines in the hub extend in further than the end of the splines on the shaft, then rust could form on those inner hub splines on the inboard side, and jamb when they come along and hit the axle splines. I'd work it gently back and forwards, from along by the end of the shaft, using two hands, until it got nice and smooth on the splines and wore off any rust. I'd work oil into it while I was freeing it up. Then I'd pull it until it stops, and I'd start moving it around feeling for the central position, and/or splines touching, pulling it gently towards me the whole time. A tiny burr can be enough to throw the hub slightly to one side, but that tiny lean makes something catch in the clip groove and it goes solid. I'd work it into position and give it some light taps from behind .. perhaps that would work for me.
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Oh.. now it did load.. haha. So if the clip is out of the groove now, then what you will have there is a lip on the axle where the clip has been rubbing. You can probably feel it with your fingers ? Get a fine file and file the lip off.
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I think what you are hearing is the bearings inside that axle bearing housing. If the sprocket hub isn't moving on it's splines I'd recommend buying some ten mill threaded rod and pulling it off. Pulling the hub off is gentle, trying to bash it off and/or getting the axle out is going to damage the seals in that bearing housing. The seals may be damaged already. The bearings are tapered bearings and as soon as they aren't being kept pressed towards one other by the two clips on the axle the cone part of the bearing gets a lot of play in it's cup, and that allows the axle to move up and down and that up and down movement will damage the seals. The seals may be damaged already and in one of those photos it looked like the bearings may have a lot of mud and rust in them anyway, so if it was my bike I'd be considering pulling the entire thing apart, replacing the bearings and seals and fixing or replacing the sprocket hub. I'd invest the few dollars involved and get some threaded rod (except I already have a selection of threaded rod because it's so handy). And the video didn't load here.. Probably my internet connection which is very variable from day to day.
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I couldn't view the video. Which hub are you trying to move and how far does it slide before coming to a stop ? is it sliding nice and freely before the stop ? Could it be that the clip has caused a slight lip on the edge of it's groove and that hub is hitting that lip ?
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If you have a punch and hammer you could do the same thing, hammer in a line, in line with the axle. As you beat the sprocket hub on that thin part of it it will get ever so slightly thinner, and as it gets thinner the metal spreads and makes the hole in the middle bigger. For the hammering to be effective though you need to support the shaft. A block of wood with something steel on top of it under the axle, with the weight of the bike on it, and the axle won't bounce around. And you could use the same block of wood and piece of metal under the sprocket bolts to split the nuts off with a cold chisel. To use three threaded rods as a pulley you'd need to buy one or two or three rods from an engineering supply shop. They come in one metre or two metre lengths over here. Then you'd knock the bolts out of the sprocket hub, put the rods through the holes and put nuts on the end of the rods. Then you could use the sprocket and slide it along the threaded rods till it's near the end of the axle and wind three nuts down to the sprocket, then find some piece of metal, or even wood, to go between the sprocket and the end of the axle. Then when you tighten the three nuts by the sprocket the hub will get pulled towards the end of the axle. Ten mill threads will give something like five tons of pull, and when you have one on each side of the axle and wind them down in sequence it will give two or three times as much pull. It'll move.
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To free that sprocket hub up you could use a ball-pein hammer and go back and forwards along the bit you can get at in a nice line and after about a hundred taps it might have spread the metal and made it slightly bigger in the middle. If you turn it and do the same line of ball-pein hits in a nice line and all the hit marks right next to one other, and do it in three places around the circumference it will loosen it, or get lube under it. Failing that, I'd use three threaded rods, or two threaded rods with a bearing splitter behind the sprocket, and sometthing at the end of the axle and I'd pull it off. My very last choice would be to heat it up. I'd try not to use heat if it was me doing it.
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I'd use a hunk of wood, end on on the hub, and a big sledge to tap it lightly across a fraction of an inch.
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That photo looks good p52. Now knock the axle over with a block of wood and a sledge hammer and the other clip will come out.