Mech

If the plug that was in there had short threads then the bottom few threads in the head have probably filled up with carbon. You should try cleaning them with a tap, and then crank the engine over a few times to blow the carbon dust you've loosened out. Hopefully that's all that's needed. If the threads have stripped you can get a thread insert that will wind in and make it possible to use the correct spark-plug again. And as before, if you fit an insert, crank the engine over to blow any metal or carbon out. I've done both jobs and never needed to pull the engine apart.

Howdy folks. I suspect Gw meant ring compressor, not spring compressor, as in valve spring compressor. You do need spring compressor for valves. Most jap bikes have enough taper at the very bottom of the cylinder that you don't need a ring compressor to slip the cylinder down over the piston.. That cleanness around the valves generally is a sign of oil burning. A clean running engine has carbon, dry carbon, right to and over the valves. The oil ring that fell through the bore is probably the wrong size for the bore, perhaps someone had fitted it years ago. They don't wear that loose, and they don't overheat and soften like top rings can do.. It will be a wrong part I'd be sure. Someone, probably the person that left the head nut loose, probably bent an oil scraper while fitting it to the piston or into the bore, and so slapped some old ring they had laying around in there.. It happens !

It's normal for vents to push a little air out, but not really with much pressure if you just put your finger over it for a few seconds. If it starts to build up pressure you can feel firmly almost straight away, well that's a bit of a bad sign. It can mean worn rings. If the vent isn't sending out a steady high flow, or pressure then it's probably not the problem. Check the colour of the smoke, and see if it lingers in still air.. See whether it smells like burnt oil, or evaporated oil.. As for the vent hose, it's pretty common for the main vent hose to go up the front of the bike, up high, and then often turn around and come a little down in height again.It gets the end of the pipe as high as it can because that lets it go through deeper water, and the lowered bit so dirt or splashed water doesn't just go down the hose. That main vent hose often has a branch off it down near the engine and that branch goes to the air-box.When it gets to the air-box it has some restriction, or, there is a pushed in restriction in the hose. The idea is that if you go into deep water, and the crankcases are cooling and the air will get sucked in as it cools, well, if you have a small restricted inlet for air, that water won't get sucked down the main hose. Air from the air-box will get sucked into the crankcase instead. The restricted air comes from the air-box, the last thing that's going to get flooded before the engine stops.. Oh, and your compression figures sounded fine to me..

Ok..

I don't think that is a chain tensioner. The bung with a spring and ball will be going into the gearbox and the ball keeps it in one gear once you have changed gear. The ball presses into a detent in a shaft.

What's wrong with the original ? Just about everything can be repaired. They can tolerate a lot of wear between the slide and the body, and seized idle mixture screws can be got out.

Yup.. See how many people are viewing the posts.. It's why I post long detailed posts.. Other people will get something that will help them, if not now, then in the future. They will remember.. the mech reckoned...

Haha.. When did we last see a distributor with vacuum advance.. I'm out in the country and the cars are old.. but not that old !

Glad you got it. The speed you pull/press the lever at makes a difference to how well they bleed sometimes. slowish steady presses mostly seem to work best to start, then once you have some pressure, pump it fast till it builds up best pressure possible, and holding the lever hard open the bleeder fast.. Repeat that latter process closing the bleeder off till you have good pressure, then open the bleeder fast.. It always works.

#44 Thanks Jen... Haven't had a baby either, but it doesn't take three months to deliver so I think I might be getting the worse deal..

Haha.. Sorry about that Ej.Some bikes don't splash oil out the filler, and others do.. I did say if it could be done without splashing I think.. But should have worned you better.. And, After my post I realised there are some obvious differences between smoke and steam that I'd notice them without even thinking.. Steam smells like steam ouf of the kettle, smoke smells like burnt oil.. Too simple. I also remembered that white smoke can be caused by the exhaust valve letting oil down into the hot gasses' and hot exhaust' so the oil evaporates, just like water does, and the oil makes white steam if it's not burnt.. It smells like oil.. (we gotta use all our senses, even taste sometimes..haha.). I think I might have suggested the exhaust valve might be loose or worn months ago.. I suggested that to someone.. Anyway, sniff the smoke, it will be either burnt oil or evaporated oil smell..Burnt oil leaves a trace of blue and un-burnt oil looks white like steam, but it hangs in the air longer than steam.. Hope that helps diagnose it. Keep us posted and we might be able to tell if it's rings or valve or pressurising.. Though if you ran it with the vent hose off, and there was a steady stream of air coming out of the crankcase, then it's probably not pressurising. You could put your finger on the crank vent fitting and see if pressure builds up much, and/or if it starts smoking worse after a few minutes.

Adnin are usually very helpful. Hope this got sorted, but if not look Admin up and private message him.

Could there be a blockage in the tubes before the air-filter box ? It sounds like the air box isn't getting enough air into it. C.V.Carbs though can be very sensitive to the amount of vacuum of the intake/filter side of them. Not all C.V. carbs, but some cn be really sensitive. I'd check the airflow into the box first, then if it all looks like genuine system and clear, I'd try adjusting the slide needle as a first step. It's easiest.. Haha

Just got online after an age and a I'm bit behind things, but, cut from a message with Ej, and because white smoke is something I've seen from time to time.. "Hello Ej. I just popped in after a prolonged spell of acute back pain, from which I'm still not cured. I can't remember exactly which model you have or whether it's water cooled or not. Steam though usually can't be seen once the entire exhaust has got warmed up, it stays in the hot exhaust gasses without condensing into the cool air as visible mist. Smoke on the other hand stays as smoke whether the exhaust is hot or not. If it is smoke, check the oil isn't over filled, and check the crankcase isn't pressurising because of a blocked/pinched breather tube. You can check that easily by running the engine for a few minutes, giving it a few revs, then turning it off and quickly undoing the oil filled cap. If it gives a puff of pressure as it loosens then the breather is likely blocked. If you can take the filler out and run the engine without it spitting oil out the hole, then do that for a while, you could put a rag over the filler hole to catch a small bit of spitting, and see if the smoke starts to ease off. It may smoke for a while if there is oil in the exhaust, but if it's not being splashed and pressurised up into the combustion chamber and being burnt, the a lot of the smoking should stop within minutes. If the breather's ok, and it's really pouring out clouds of white, and I mean particularly white rather than the usual slightly blue tinge, Then it could be that your oil is contaminated with an oil of the wrong type.. There are certain common oils that sometimes get confused for engine oil when there are several containers sitting around.. Haha.. I've seen it a few times. Chainbar oil for the chainsaw is a common one, and it will fill your yard with smoke if someone changes the engine oil for chainbar oil. Transmission fluid is probably the second most common and that makes a lot of white smoke too. Hope that helps. I hope to be back in the forum soon but I'm not quite ready yet. Catch you when I do. Cheers, Mech.".

Well if the dash is all behaving normally, you should recheck the fuel pump is running, and has good pressure. If you turn the key on the pump should run for a few seconds I think. After taking the fuel lines off it's recommended to turn the key on and off several times to bleed the air out. And if you can get a hand onto a rubber fuel hose, it should stiffen when the key is turned on and he pump applies pressure. The hose has about 50Lb pressure if that gives you some idea.

That sounds right.

The number, if it's on the lower left frame, is slightly below the center-line of the tube I think, in the place most prone to wear and bashes. It also means you have to near lay on the ground to see it.. If you have the engine number it might help narrow down what model it is.

The reviews are a bit mixed. It would have limited instances where it would work successfully I suspect. Interesting idea though.

Ok, I'd still be checking the charging system very carefully. Something bad has to happen to make a running quad suddenly get a swollen battery. It takes something serious to make a cdi blow a chunk out too. The two could be related. Something as simple as a broken earth wire could cause these problems and you could end up replacing more parts without fixing the problem. Have you checked the fuses ? Have you used a gauge to check the wiring for continuity ?

Very cool. How much do they cost compared to the normal jump pack ?

#1 "I replaced the battery would not start no spark pull the control unit and there was a round quarter inch hole broken out of the Gel coating on the back.". What was that "control unit" ? I'm guessing that was the voltage regulator. If the cdi unit had blasted a big chunk out of itself, then I don't think the bike would even start to idle.. Start the bike and let it idle then turn the headlights on and see if the bike dies. If it doesn't die then try revving it with the headlights on, and then with them off, and see if the headlight makes a difference to how many revs it can get to..

The original breakdown sounds like a battery and charging problem. Was it the voltage regulator you replaced ? Have you checked the fuses ? I'd be checking the charging.. the bikes earths and power wires. Check the cdi has a good earth and a power supply if it is meant to have one. Get the service manual and it will say how to check the charging, and the ignition..

Paper filters shouldn't be oiled, Foam filters should be lightly oiled. The way I've always done it, and the way that's recommended in some manuals, is, oil it liberally with 30 grade engine oil, and then gently work the oil right through with your hands. Then wrap it in a clean cloth and squeeze the cloth and filter fairly hard in your hands, but don't wring it. If you wring the foam filter it can tear. After the squeeze in the cloth it should come out lightly oiled all over and all the way through. Some C.V. carbs are quite sensitive to having too much or too little oil on the filter.

And... grizzly_700_2014-1-Sensors.pdf

If there is a problem the light will either flash or stay illuminated, and a trouble code will be displayed.. Here's what the service manual says.. grizzly_700_2014-1.pdf