Mech

i may have overstated the ten minute recheck.. I'd use the plate clutch a bit, using my toe on the shift lever to slip it a bit. I'd do that on a ten minute run so I could readjust it before returning it to a customer.. You can probably drive it for an hour or two of regular driving before the plates will have settled in and need readjusting..

Did you drive it with the pipe off ? Are you sure all the carb and tank vent hoses are connected right, and have you tried opening the air inlet to the carb ? Taking the lid off the air-filter box perhaps..

Yes. After fitting it needs adjusting, and then checking a couple of times in the first few hours riding, but I'd make the first recheck after only about five or ten minutes. I hope you soaked the shoes and plates in oil before installing them ?

All good points Bellarmine. As far as that cam mark changing goes.. There's something wrong there, worn sprocket/s, tight link in the chain that doesn't like going around corners, play in the cam bearings perhaps.. If you start it, listen for a rhythmic surge/rattle noise from the tensioner/chain. And, another thing that can cause really dull performance and no revs, is retarded ignition timing.. Usually accompanied with a lot of heat.. It makes exhausts glow red.. Oh heck.. I hadn't realised it was a belt drive.. That might not be operating properly..

And does it start repeatedly ? And can you get it to run any longer by carefully managing your hand ? Have you held the fuel hose and checked it has pressure ? Does the pressure drop while it's running, or does the hose stay stiff right till the engine has stopped running ?

The cam timing should come out the same no matter how many turns of the crank you make. If it lines up on one T, it should be the exact same on the next rotation. Make sure you are rotating the crank the right way. Turn it some more rotations and check the timing doesn't slowly creep around.. Caused by a wrong/worn sprocket. It doesn't matter whether the cam's mark is at the front or back of the head.

The book I looked in said T in the peep hole, and then, the mark on the camshaft lined up with a mark on the sprocket,(the cam mark is on the back of the sprocket), then the sprocket lined up with the head surface. There shouldn't be any second T mark. There will be a F mark. If you turn the crank one whole rotation from one T to the next time it appears in the hole, the cam's marks should have done a half turn and gone from front of the head to the back, or from the back to the front. You need to be sure all the slack is out of the tight side of the chain when you are checking the alignment, and it will be possible to get the cam marks less than a half tooth from perfect. If it looks like it wants to be more than half a cam tooth off, yell out and I'll explain how to fix that. The oxy-acet will be the death of the old muffler.. Just unbolt it and go for one fang.. They you'll know it's the exhaust blocked and not a bad spark-plug..

I was looking for a atv manual for the same engine, and fuel injected, in the hope the wiring etc might be the same or very similar, but i could only find carb models. A manual is what you need. All my suggestions are just based on some of the common efi systems and principles we find in the rest of the auto world.. Does this utv use Bosch components by any chance ?

I'd just take it off at the head and go for a blast.. haha I can because I'm rural. That would be the best test to see if it is restricted. Well.. there is a slightly more professional way, and that's to fit a vacuum gauge to the inlet and watch it... if there's somewhere to tap into full manifold vacuum.. And yes there are ways to clean them but they are rather destructive. You can soak the whole thing in caustic solution for a few hours and then rinse it and bash it with a piece of wood and hose it out a lot and hopefully a lot of soft carbon falls out.. if you're lucky. If not lucky it might block a mufler worse than ever. It works on the simple exhausts of old two-strokes. The other way is to heat the pipe end with oxy-acetylene torch and when a few bits of carbon start glowing, turn off the acetylene.. It's turn into a jet engine and a red hot band works it's way along the pipe and then muffler.. It makes a huge noise and flames and clouds of smoke.. It's my preferred method.. Both "cures" rust out the pipe pretty quickly. If you can go for a long hot ride, like four hours or more of steady riding, preferably in hills or sand-hills so it's working hard, and it might come clean.

I don't know much about Hisun.. Most ecu go through a self diagnosis and reset when the key's turned on. Ecu do learn and adapt to changing compression, dirty air filters etc, and that learnt modification of the tune is sometimes set back to original base line settings if you disconnect the battery for some time. I doubt that's what's needed though. The 10v is not sounding right. Most injectors get supplied with 12v and then they get earhed in the ecu when they want it to inject. Injectors are sensitive to voltage to the extent that they adjust the injection timing and duration to compensate for the normal range of voltages between about twelve and fourteen point seven. Without the compensation the injector would inject more fuel at high voltages. That said though.. they do inject right down to slow cranking volts, which can be as low as nine volts. It should squirt at ten volts I would think. I'd look why that voltage is so low though. Some injectors have a relay to supply the voltage, and others they just feed the ignition/key power to the injector, and others again get sent their power from the ecu. And it's possible some injectors have a permanent earth and get power from the ecu when it's time to inject. The fuel hose should have about 50Lb in. I'd test the pressure, check all the power supplies and earths to the ecu, and check why the injector is only getting the ten volts. .Once you've found one earth it's a good chance any other wires of the same colour will also be earths, and the same will probably be true for the power.

Oh ok.. I couldn't make out what was happening in the video..haha. Well done then. And the kit disables the dash flashing does it ? How much did the speedo go up by ? Vibration maybe ?

Yeah the movement is strange.. The parts diagrams and manuals all say the spider and side gears in the diff aren't serviceable.. What's the bet the bike has worn the side gear thrust washers/faces..

Crazier...

You'll have trouble getting a left hand thread die though quite likely.. There's a thing called a "thread file", that's what you want.. It'll cut whichever you aim it. They come in different threads but you'll probably only need one file and the eight threads it does will do everything on the bike. Other than that.. What Gw says.

Ouch.. That's pretty much what put me off riding on the roads fifty years ago, seeing people getting hit by cars and other moving objects. I decided dirt riding was safer. I have ridden on roads(mainly back/metal roads) since but always on off-road bikes, other than customers I needed to ride. Do you guys call crushed rock "metal" over there ? And yeah, we hope it's going to be good..

The easiest test is to leave it plugged in and check from all the positive power wires going in to all the earths coming out. You do it with the key off and then with it on to test all the power wires. The trouble is, without a wiring diagram we wouldn't be sure we'd actually identified all the power wires just by colour.. The plug may be water proof too and need a bit of tweaking to allow access to the terminals to check the power etc. I don't really think the power or earths are going to be it though if it ran briefly when you had your hand over the inlet. I wonder if the brief run was brief because the fuel pump had only run to prime the system when you'd turned the key on, then switched itself off, as it's meant to do, but then didn't turn on like it's meant to when it got the crankshaft rotation signal that is meant to keep the pump running when the engine is running. You could experiment with that idea in mind. Keep trying to start it and see if it always starts then runs out of fuel pressure and dies no matter what the revs or hand position, after some small time.. And you can generally feel the pressure they run at by holding the fuel hose somewhere that's going to be pressurised, and then turning the key on. You'll hear the pump and feel the hose stiffen. After a second or so the pump will go off and the hose should probably stay pressurised for some short time.. ten seconds say.. maybe less. Test it, see if you think it's firing up with a bit of restricted air and the fading pressure from the prime. Or.. Find the fuel pump relay and hot wire it so the pump runs all the time, except for when you switch it off of course as soon as you stop the engine.

Well I didn't get far reading up on the manuals I had, they were mostly carb models. I did find an owners manual though for a HS500 that was fuel injected and it had a trouble code for something called FPR.. which I'd guess could be fuel pressure regulator.. I'm guessing your bike isn't flashing it's dash at you and so it's not likely that a fuel pressure injector would have an electrical problem, but the regulator might be seized up. I'm not sure that FPR does mean fuel pressure regulator, but every other code and it's abbreviated name I recognised. Also not sure a fuel pressure regulator problem would respond to your hand being over the inlet like that either. If the regulator is adjusted and sensitive to vacuum, it should work the opposite way. Generally when there's a load on the engine, and we open the throttle causing the vacuum to drop, the fuel pressure needs to go up. When the manifold gets more vacuum(your hand over it), it should lower the pressure.. All just assumption that it is a pressure regulator, that it is controlled by vacuum, but the only lead I found.. We really need a manual...

Dang...

Good one.. Glad it was so simple.

Actually.. Just reread and realised it ran when you put your hand over the inlet.. You should check for air leaks into the inlet manifold, and possibly leaks in the inlet hose between the air-filter and the throttle body(depending on sort of sensor it has).. I'll get onto the manual later.. when the day's too hot for work. Some idea of the year would be good too because I see there are HS500utv, and HS500utv-5.. And possibly 2,3,4 models as well..

I think you are over estimating the sophistication of this old beast Bellarmine. It doesn't have any of those systems.. "It acts as if it’s bogging down because of too much load. I haven’t personally shifted it through the gears on jackstands but I was able to drive it from the front to the back yard in first gear just fine while walking alongside it. But then when I got on it and tried to drive it, it tries to go but acts forced to shut off". I reckon the fact it drives without weight on it is going to be the vital clue here..

Ok. If any of the wiring is broken it should set a trouble code in the computer and flash a light at you... I should think. The exceptions are if the power supply or the earth to the ECU (computer) fail, then the ECU can't record a code because the power's off.. So the manual will say to check the earths and the power supplies, and it could have several of each going to the ECU. Then, we generally look at the mechanical side of things, so a stuck injector, faulty pump or regulator, in some vehicles something like a broken key on the crank so there is no signal coming out of the crank angle sensor.. stuff like that. I'll have a look at the manual later..

Is this HS500 an atv or utv ? Does it have any other designations.. such as HS500atv-2, HS500atv-Bruger.. There are quite a few options in atv and utv.. all called HS500***

You need to check the 5 code first. Code 1 means the ECU is crook (or got bad wires), but you fix what flashes on the dash first, then clear the codes and drive it to see what comes up next. The codes you have to extract, they are old and could be historic and irrelevant. That's why you clear them after you've done the work and re drive to see what gets set next. The recorded codes are good for finding intermittent faults. You just need the faults that show on the dash when you turn the key at the moment. With trouble codes, we should never take them literally, they are only a guide. The 5 when you turn it on is just a guide to what section of the wiring the fault lays in, it doesn't mean the motor or the motor drive circuit board is faulty.. Mostly it's wires that break. Here's the section out of the manual, and you need to start at page 22-12, and follow the instructions for checking the motor control circuit. The procedure starts at the bottom of page 22-12, and goes through to near the bottom of page 22-13. There are six steps of checking with a digital gauge. Then you clear the codes (step four), and go for a drive. If the dash starts flashing after the drive and a re-turn on, then you fix that code next. 420TE.pdf

Ha.. I better go read the book.. I'll get back to you.