Mech

If it hasn't been run in a long time the compression may come up after a good run.. If you can get it to run at that compression. If you put about a teaspoon of oil down the spark-plug hole and do another compression test and the comp comes up a lot it's got bad rings and so It probably will need work, but if it stays almost the same comp then it's likely just dirty valves. If you pull it over slowly listening at the carb and exhaust you might hear leaking valves.. might. The spark sounds like a faulty cdi unit. It's just possible though someone has connected things up incorrectly though so it needs diagnosing.

Well done on the perseverance. That's strange about the right-left thing. Perhaps they changed the axle design somewhere along the way.

Finger-tip feel will pick up what an eye can't see. I'd rub a fine flat file right round it making sure there wasn't a bit of raised metal. And, could it get caught on the back of the hub ? If the splines in the hub extend in further than the end of the splines on the shaft, then rust could form on those inner hub splines on the inboard side, and jamb when they come along and hit the axle splines. I'd work it gently back and forwards, from along by the end of the shaft, using two hands, until it got nice and smooth on the splines and wore off any rust. I'd work oil into it while I was freeing it up. Then I'd pull it until it stops, and I'd start moving it around feeling for the central position, and/or splines touching, pulling it gently towards me the whole time. A tiny burr can be enough to throw the hub slightly to one side, but that tiny lean makes something catch in the clip groove and it goes solid. I'd work it into position and give it some light taps from behind .. perhaps that would work for me.

Oh.. now it did load.. haha. So if the clip is out of the groove now, then what you will have there is a lip on the axle where the clip has been rubbing. You can probably feel it with your fingers ? Get a fine file and file the lip off.

I think what you are hearing is the bearings inside that axle bearing housing. If the sprocket hub isn't moving on it's splines I'd recommend buying some ten mill threaded rod and pulling it off. Pulling the hub off is gentle, trying to bash it off and/or getting the axle out is going to damage the seals in that bearing housing. The seals may be damaged already. The bearings are tapered bearings and as soon as they aren't being kept pressed towards one other by the two clips on the axle the cone part of the bearing gets a lot of play in it's cup, and that allows the axle to move up and down and that up and down movement will damage the seals. The seals may be damaged already and in one of those photos it looked like the bearings may have a lot of mud and rust in them anyway, so if it was my bike I'd be considering pulling the entire thing apart, replacing the bearings and seals and fixing or replacing the sprocket hub. I'd invest the few dollars involved and get some threaded rod (except I already have a selection of threaded rod because it's so handy). And the video didn't load here.. Probably my internet connection which is very variable from day to day.

I couldn't view the video. Which hub are you trying to move and how far does it slide before coming to a stop ? is it sliding nice and freely before the stop ? Could it be that the clip has caused a slight lip on the edge of it's groove and that hub is hitting that lip ?

If you have a punch and hammer you could do the same thing, hammer in a line, in line with the axle. As you beat the sprocket hub on that thin part of it it will get ever so slightly thinner, and as it gets thinner the metal spreads and makes the hole in the middle bigger. For the hammering to be effective though you need to support the shaft. A block of wood with something steel on top of it under the axle, with the weight of the bike on it, and the axle won't bounce around. And you could use the same block of wood and piece of metal under the sprocket bolts to split the nuts off with a cold chisel. To use three threaded rods as a pulley you'd need to buy one or two or three rods from an engineering supply shop. They come in one metre or two metre lengths over here. Then you'd knock the bolts out of the sprocket hub, put the rods through the holes and put nuts on the end of the rods. Then you could use the sprocket and slide it along the threaded rods till it's near the end of the axle and wind three nuts down to the sprocket, then find some piece of metal, or even wood, to go between the sprocket and the end of the axle. Then when you tighten the three nuts by the sprocket the hub will get pulled towards the end of the axle. Ten mill threads will give something like five tons of pull, and when you have one on each side of the axle and wind them down in sequence it will give two or three times as much pull. It'll move.

To free that sprocket hub up you could use a ball-pein hammer and go back and forwards along the bit you can get at in a nice line and after about a hundred taps it might have spread the metal and made it slightly bigger in the middle. If you turn it and do the same line of ball-pein hits in a nice line and all the hit marks right next to one other, and do it in three places around the circumference it will loosen it, or get lube under it. Failing that, I'd use three threaded rods, or two threaded rods with a bearing splitter behind the sprocket, and sometthing at the end of the axle and I'd pull it off. My very last choice would be to heat it up. I'd try not to use heat if it was me doing it.

I'd use a hunk of wood, end on on the hub, and a big sledge to tap it lightly across a fraction of an inch.

That photo looks good p52. Now knock the axle over with a block of wood and a sledge hammer and the other clip will come out.

Looking at the small amount of thread I can see in one of your photos it looks like turning the nut anti-clockwise should wind it in to the center of the bike, and that should uncover the clip. It may not uncover it entirely, but hopefully it's just enough to be able to use a tiny screwdriver to lever it out. If it doesn't expose the clip enough I'd knock the axle from the other end to try and get it to tighten up on that other end clip.. that might just make the difference.

Turn the nut the other way. It should wind inwards towards the center of the bike. The book says turning it anti-clockwise should do that, but if it didn't, then turn it clockwise. And it's stopped raining over here so I'm off to have a tutu with my new toy.. A small excavator !

And I noticed the diagrams do show two clips after all. They show one as being real small. I should read and look more carefully.. haha. Can I blame it on my specs ?

And, the exploded view of that axle in the manual shows it as only having one clip, but on the opposite side to what the parts diagram shows it's one clip. But in fact, your bike has two clips ! WTF ! #38 No, when you turn the nut counter-clockwise it winds in slightly and uncovers the clip, then you pull that clip and slide it along a little, then the shaft can be pushed over to the right to reveal the other clip.

Oh ok, just reread that manual you posted and it seems the bearings are only positioned by those clips, there is no adjustment. When the bearings get worn they get play and you throw them away. No. The manual says to turn that big nut counter-clockwise to wind it in and reveal the clip.. So that nut must be left hand thread.. Dang yankies !

At least the sprocket hub isn't seized on.. That's a win. Perhaps try knocking that hub over and seeing if the clip gets uncovered. The tapered bearings shown must have some flange on the axle for them to get pressed up against when you tighten the big nut, but there's nothing like a flange shown on the axle, or a clip on that sprocket side, so I can't figure what confines the bearings to keep their free-play right. The parts also describe that disc you've unbolted on the other side as being made of aluminium.. Dang yankies !

Oh ok, perhaps the hub will move across enough to get that clip out. Here's the parts diagram, and it only shows one clip, part #8, and it's on the other side.

Yeah that's the big nut . I looked the parts up to see an exploded diagram, which often show things clearer than the photos do, and it shows there being a clip on the left side by that nut, but no clip on the right by the sprocket. It doesn't show anything holding the sprocket on. Very strange. Then, it shows different pictures for the 04 and 05 models ! No matter. That clip by the sprocket won't lever out while the hub is half covering it like that. You'll have to back the nut off and remove a clip from that side, then push the axle over to the right slightly I think, then the clip will come out.

To get that clip out you are going to have to slide the axle over slightly to expose the clip I think. That means undoing the big nut on the other side. A pipe wrench or big cresent will do that. That clip looks like it's been moving against the hub, and so hopefully the hub has been moving slightly as well and won't be seized on. I'd start spraying lube on that hub now so it might soak in though.

Position it so the link is on the sprocket and then hit the ends of the link pins with a hammer lightly. That should push the link through the near-side plate and across enough to get a screwdriver in behind the other side and lever the link right out.

Ha.. Dust does suck doesn't it. In the old days before aircon and when all the roads around here were metal the dust used to get everywhere. We'd drive to town for the groceries and the dust would come billowing in through holes in the door rubbers if nowhere else and everyone would be white with dust by the time we got anywhere.. haha I'd forgotten about dust..

Yeah, the fading light sounds like a dud battery but if bridging the solenoid cranks the bike over then it must not be the case.. In that case it's probably a bad connection somewhere. You could try turning the headlight on to see if that fades as well. Not sure what that would tell us at the moment without looking in the book but it would be a simple check of the battery. I think I'd check the ignition switch as my first check. The recommended thing to do is what's known as a "voltage drop check". In the case of the switch you put a volt gauge across the power wires on the key switch and with the key off it should show 12v, then turn the key on and the voltage should drop to zero as the power goes through the switch instead of the gauge. If it keeps showing a voltage with the key on then there's a bad contact in the switch. Some models have the 12v going through the cdi and then the kill switch on the way to the start button so you should do the voltage drop test across those two parts as well. Switches are a suspect here.. If not a switch, then a bad contact where a terminal connects to a switch or component, or where a wire crimps into the metal terminal on it's end.

In the pictures it looks like if you take the chain off and rotate the concentric adjuster, and then rotate the axle, the bolts might just get past that housing and come out. And it looks like the access to the nuts is good enough to support and split the nuts off too. I'd do that and then figure out how to fix the problem. Nuts and bolts may be a possible cheap fix till you get the rest of the bike sorted and feel ready to replace the sprocket hub.

I'd wriggle all the wires as a first step. If it is a chafed insulation and you disturb it and move it so it's not touching anymore it can be the real mongrel thing trying to find it after that and you end up with an ongoing and intermittent problem. If it's a faulty component it will always be faulty.. plenty of time to find that.

Looks like you saved it as something other than PDF P52.. That PRN is a print file.. nearly right by the look of it except for the file type you saved as. There will be an option to save as PDF..