Mech

You'll get the hang of it. It's handy for posting just a few pages.. wiring diagrams etc. I looked in manuals I have and it seems to be fairly common build. All you'd need to do to get the old bolts out would be undo the nut that holds the sprocket hub on and slide the hub along a bit. If it's seized on the splines it might be a bit trickier. Then I'd try wedging it first off, and if that didn't work I'd pull the wheel hub etc and use metre long threaded rods to improvise a puller to pull the hub off. I always have two in my workshop so I'd get a third and put one through each bolt hole and use some old steel plate or puller hub I'd have. You might be able to use the sprocket with something behind it against the axle so the sprocket doesn't bend. Threaded rod from the engineering supply shop's fairly cheap and handy to have.

I don't know about anyone else but I haven't been able to see your videos or that picture P52.. It might be that you need to save them as some other file type before uploading them.. Doh.. Tried again and the photo did open.. As you were...

To print a part of a pdf P52 you do what's called "print to file", you don't need an actual printer. It just sends a copy to your documents or whereever you want to save it to. Open the pdf and check/note what pages you want to make into a new pdf and then choose print, when the printer page opens up you choose "print to file", then you can choose print all, print current page or print pages, so go something like 101-112, or individual pages 101, 102,108,109,110,111,112. Choose preview and it will show you what it's going to look like, then hit the print button on the preview page and choose where to save it to. Split the nuts off.. It's a common mechanics way of either loosening seized nuts or getting them right off if needed. And if you can see the back of the bolts then it might be easy to get them right out. Worst comes to worst you put bolts from the sprocket side and nuts on the back..

Could just disconnect the regulator and see if it stops the problem...

The old hub can probably be repaired or modified to accept other bolts. It will come apart P52.. If you open that pdf you have, go to the right section for servicing that area of the bike, then choose to print just those few pages as a pdf, it will be a small file You could then post that small file here in the page for us to check over.

If you can get the nuts off, by splitting them perhaps, then you might be able to pick up some car studs of a slightly bigger diameter that would pull into the hub. To split the nuts you need something solid and steel under the stud and nut, like a big block of wood with a hunk of heavy metal on it, then you use a cold chisel to cut/split the nut in line with the stud, length-ways along the stud. Once you've cut in a bit and spread it slightly on one side turn the nut and do the same on the opposite side. If you cut enough the nut will fall off in two pieces with a bit of wrestling, or it will come loose enough to be spun off.

Some models the nuts holding the sprocket on are on captive bolts, not studs. They look similar to what cars have for the wheel nuts. Are you sure they are studs ? If they are the captive bolts they might just knock out with a hammer and the new ones get drawn back in with a nut and some improvised spacer.

As Gw says, some parts are availiable, some genuine and some aftermarket. You really just need to get online and look for the part you want. A model and market and/or having the frame number is going to be required.

So it had this same problem before you replaced the carb twice, and did the head up ? Initial impression, since it's popping out the inlet and exhaust, would be that your ignition is failing.. It might be that the ignition timing is going erratic.. I think I'd put a timing light on it and watch the timing and that the spark doesn't fail as I rev it up. Could be the cdi or a wiring fault. You could also check the charging system is regulating as it should.

Take a photo, put it on the laptop and enlarge it..

Oh ok. Some bike bolts do have small heads.. I'd forgotten about them.. 8mm is near enough to 5/16 to work.

I think, unless they are using european metric bolts, that what they describe as 6mm bolts take a ten mill spanner, and 8mm bolts take a 12mm spanner. And I think they describe the cam/valve cover as a rocker cover in page two.. output.pdf If the bolts are euro then a 6mm bolt will use an eleven mill spanner.

I think you need to clean the rust off. In the two manuals I looked in it says the timing mark is a single small groove/line. It looks like a small chisel mark in the flywheel. There are other ignition advance marks but they are one long mark with a short mark either side.

Yeah that sounds like sh**, but without seeing what you are doing with the throttle, and whether it will come right with more throttle, and stuff like that, it's hard to say what's wrong with it. Was it like that before you put the new carb on ? Does it start easy ? Will it rev if you coax it past that misfiring ? Is the spark, and spark-plug good ? Pull the plug out and check it has a nice blue spark, and at the same time check what colour the tip of the plug is. It sounds like it's flooding.. But that's a guess. You could try turning the fuel tap off and see if it comes right as it runs out of fuel in the carb. You need to give us more info.

Well we did some things right !

Oh is that right. And is this in America ? Kiwi boot polish is a kiwi icon, like taniwha soap and the buzzy-bee kids toy. I didn't know we exported it though.

Seriously Grizzly.. Some of these new brands do break gearbox shafts, kickshafts, axles, cranks, wheel hubs, diffs, stuff you'd never imagine would break, and the parts are hard to get in a lot of them.

Try buying some parts.. Unlikely parts, parts that never break on a jap but do on these, like a gearbox shaft or a back axle, wheel hub.. something like that.

Bugger the styling ! That "styling", with the huge clearance between body work and tyre would flick mud all over you I'm thinking.

Yeah hopefully that is it. It might just be certain revs vibrations make something wiggle and short or loose contacts. Most switches on bikes come apart pretty easy. Just do it over a big tray so you don't loose little balls or springs. Clean the contacts and check the spring is firm and springy.

Most of it doesn't sound like tappets.. There are rattles and clunks.. haha. It misses completely. Does it run better if you open it up further P52 ? I'd still recheck the valve clearance though. I've got the adjustment wrong before and they've gone out of adjustment in just a few minutes or riding.. It happens. And they can work tighter or looser.. Depends on the bike and how they were adjusted. I'd also check the spark plug gap and the spark plug cap's resistance.

The valve adjustment might have changed. If the valves have worn the rocker then adjusting them with feelers doesn't work well. The feeler doesn't allow for the wear because it just bridges across it and you end up with the feeler measurement plus the wear clearance. If the adjustment isn't right, things hammer and quickly get out of adjustment again. There are a couple of ways of setting valves accurately. One is to use a dial gauge to measure the movement of the rocker, and the other is to check what the thread pitch is on the adjuster bolt, and then calculate how much of a turn it would take to get the correct clearance by backing out from from zero clearance. I set bike valves though by feeling the clearance and through a combination of feel and sound I know what the clearance is. Once the clearance is right, it stays right for a long time. If it's wrong it changes fast.. and that is true on most valve systems. Other than the valves, read post #18..

Yeah all forums are great for getting the low-down. I'm, well was, a self employed mech in the rural and before the internet it was a nightmare trying to get even basic information like a read of the service manual. Now you can just go to a model specific forum and ask what's the common fault and often they will point you straight to the stupid obscure fault, or you can download the manual. That common fault information is the sort of knowledge that once only service managers at dealerships accumulated.. And manuals used to be dealer only once, till the japs figured out that was counter productive and deterred people buying their cars. The internet certainly is a huge boon for all of us.

Yeah cv carbs are quite fussy about their air-filters. No air-box, or too much or too little oil on the foam filters can make them behave real bad.

Ha.. Gremlins. Good to hear it's coming right. I'd try and get the fuel tap. Float needles that work just fine all day long can still be leaking a tiny bit, not enough to upset the running or cause any problems in a day, but they can slowly fill the sump when the bike's left for a few days. It's probably not meant to be able to start in gear either.. It's a safety feature. Stupid safety !