Mech

I don't know exactly how the setup works, but there is a cable that operates a safety on reverse, and if that isn't adjusted right it could be not moving/giving enough after reverse has been deselected and so it's preventing forward gears being selected..

Ho yeah, they are quite a bit different. So the other gear in there must be different too or it would be chewed up. You'll suss it. If it's not a market difference(thinking starter motors) then it must be some after market I reckon. Those chunky teeth don't really look like what a honda would have.. haha.. maybe. Or a honda mod.. There's probably a "old new stock" dealer somewhere with a set. We have one here called Anaconda.. They have a lot off old stuff.

After the pdf is made you can open them and rotate them and enlarge them and then save that as the preferred view and it opens like that after that.. Well i think it will, it does on my linux but I'm not entirely sure that they open like that on another computer.. In fact,.. could you tell me if this opens with the diagram horizontal.. Honda4514HShopManual.pdf Cheers.

Yeah it worked mint. I can magnify it right up and it's nice and clear, and, it only took a fraction of the time a jpeg would have to download..

If it goes into reverse without a clunk it should go into forwards. Are you sure there isn't some safety interlock stopping it ?

It'll be too old for a vin won't it ? Frame number is good though, and engine. I have spreadsheets of models and numbers. Most bikes have somewhere in their frame/vin a model code which they use in the service manuals, some four digit code which explains the market. For the trx it should be TE01,TE02 etc all the way up to TE27.. or more. It's not surprising the parts are hard to identify. Back in 86 we were still on microfiche and paper, and any super-ceded part numbers would have been sent out on paper and noted by hand(with a pen) in the book or on the microfiche. Somewhere along the line as the books have been digitised the superceded number has been omitted. So.. that replacement gear set I saw mentioned was by some other company, like Caltric, and that gear set needs to be tracked down. Or, you take a real hunch and buy the other gear from honda and hope the two gears together work, and fit the shaft.. Either way it's a worry and/or a guess. I hate guesses.

That ignition relay will only be to power the lights , starter, horn etc; The spark is completely run off the stator. That last picture is clear. You can print a single page, or whatever combination of pages you want, out of a pdf document, into a pdf document. Then they can be enlarged and searched etc easily. If you open a pdf and choose "print", then "print to file", then you can choose to print everything, the current page you are on, or any combination of pages, as a pdf document. It's what I generally do. Then you can post the whole electrical, engine, whatever, section.

I can't quite be sure I'm reading the colour, or role labels, on the combination switch contact diagram, but it looks to me like the wire coming from the ignition unit is earthed to kill the spark, and open circuit to run. That wire also goes into that multi relay called "combination relay". I'd suspect that relay can kill the spark if all the safety features aren't satisfied. I'd unplug that and spin the engine somehow and it should have spark.

Doh. I got confused.. Well can a different part #11 be got. The one listed is 25 T.. Is your's 25T ? Perhaps searching for that part, with the number of teeth your bike has, might lead somewhere.. I looked and there are American models, UK models and Australian models. I'll bet the problem is that the bike was meant for some other market. If you send me the frame and/or engine numbers I will try seeing if I can find anything. I have seen references to buying a gear set which apparently, while having different teeth count, does the job.. Old posts though and no part numbers. It may be what's happened to this bike.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+handa+trx250+starter+gear+43%2F18&sca_esv=4a9fe3e51a0d056a&ei=WnsJZ4fyKu6m2roP5pjsgQM&ved=0ahUKEwiHh_PzhoeJAxVuk1YBHWYMOzAQ4dUDCA4&uact=5&oq=1986+handa+trx250+starter+gear+43%2F18&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiJDE5ODYgaGFuZGEgdHJ4MjUwIHN0YXJ0ZXIgZ2VhciA0My8xODIGECEYFRgKSIgUUMEIWJIPcAF4AJABAJgBiASgAbMHqgEFNC0xLjG4AQPIAQD4AQGYAgOgAssHwgILEAAYgAQYsAMYogTCAgsQABiwAxiiBBiJBcICCBAAGIAEGKIEmAMA4gMFEgExIECIBgGQBgSSBwUxLjQtMqAHkQc&sclient=gws-wiz-serp Damn. I thought that was going to change into a tidy little url. So that's the part you need ? Better check all the other parts that might be different too/

I think this is your wiring diagram.. It looks like you need to check the key, kill and the other switch which I think might be a tether kill switch, there so a parent can pull on a tether and kill the bike. output.pdf

You need to tell us more.. That's what I think. Like, is it warm or cold, idling or with the throttle open, has it had any work done to it, has it had a tune ever.. I could be guessing forever why an engine might "randomly" shut off. My guess is, that, because there is very little in this universe that is completely random, that there will be clues which you are not telling us, that will explain the random and reveal it to be in fact some degree of chaos, not random.. haha.. Well you did ask for thoughts.. Any thoughts.

This is what the owners manual says about the stater... START BUTTON IS NOT EFFECTIVE Symptom, possible causes and remedy • Run down battery. • Defective switch contacts. • Brushes not seating properly on starter motor commutator. • Defective starter relay. • Defective main fuse. No mention of cdi. Since neither the spark nor the starter work, I'd be suspecting the key switch. Or wiring...

Is the spark-plug getting wet with fuel ? Does the spark-plug have a spark if you rest it against the head and crank the engine over ?

Oh too cute. The little mower that could.

I remembered in the night reading about someone who had a similar problem, except a bit worse in that the bike would barely move, and it was because there was a safety feature whereby the bike's revs were limited if the park-brake was on. He disconnected the brake switch(which was defective) and it went again. I can't remember if it was a yamaha or a kawasaki now though.. haha. Worth a look, or read in the owners manual.

It's a honda. It should be good.. Beautiful in fact.. haha

It would be a good idea to check the stator readings as well, and check the connector looks original.. If the stator or cdi has been changed with the wrong part or incorrectly it could run like this.

Check the charging system is charging, and regulating.. Just slap a volt gauge across the battery terminals and see it's 12.6 at rest, about 13.6 after it's started, and gets up near but no higher than about 14.7 with a few revs. Then turn the headlights on and it should be able to maintain about 13.7 volts. If you have a timing light put that on and check the spark isn't disappearing when the trouble starts.

Oh yeah Gw, get a wiring diagram. Drive-ons have safety features galore. You have to be sitting in the seat, with the blade disengaged, and with the cutters raised, in neutral, and it might start.. Oh, and full with oil.. And the hand-brake.. There might be more..

Some of the old suzuki were 12 volt and some were stator run cdi. You might need to ascertain what year and model and market you have to get the right wiring diagram. It's pretty much what Gw said though, and if you can match colours up you might get it to spark.

Just take the top cover off, in place, and check and/or change the needle position. That's easy. If changing the needle makes a difference, then move it some more till it's in the best position for running between 1/4 and 7/8 throttle. If that doesn't/can't make it run right, then take the carb off and strip, clean, inspect and adjust it.

#9 #11

I see someone posting a service manual for the 2008 Qlink Rodeo 700FI, but it turns out to be a yamaha service manual, for a YXR 700FX Rhino. Might be worth a look.

The three wires the same colour can be put in any order into the plug.