Mech

Good work Admin. 

I'd give it a "like" except... "like"s not working.. haha.

Ha..  And the price we like too !

Good score..

The relay likely clicks because the power to it is being intermittently disconnected. A bad relay shouldn't make the lights flicker, but a broken wire/bad connection will make the lights flicker and the relay click.

Did you check the switches are making good contacts inside ?

Gw's right.. check the earths as well.

Good stuff.. and is the fancy screwdriver nicely made ? Worked good did it ?

I've been thinking of getting one for a while.. but wanted to make sure they were good quality first..  haha. 

This might be the right diagram..  Check it carefully.. Check the cdi and start button are wired like that diagram, if they aren't then you need a different diagram.

1997-Bigbear-350.pdf

You need to be sure the key switch you fitted is the right sort for that model. There are two different switches.

You need to get a manual with a wiring diagram.

Then you need to start tracing the power to the ignition switch, through the switch, and then through either the kill switch or the cdi unit, depending on what wiring that's using. Some models the start signal to the start solenoid goes through the cdi unit before going to the start button, and in other models the power goes to the start button then to the solenoid. And there are the start cut-out relays as well.

The bike needs to be in neutral or have it's brake light on for the starter to work..

What ever it is, it's always best to try adjusting the mixture first because that is (even the hard to get at adjusters),  the easiest thing to try.

It checks the mixture screw is changing the mixture enough too, which is a good thing to check. If winding the screw a full turn each way didn't have a dramatic effect, then it would be a guide/helpful in the diagnosis.

I don't have one, but these look quite good.. There are other designs of special tools for adjusting the hard to get to bike carbs as well..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHYW1PBF?tag=qcforum-20

Look the original yamaha part number up on Babbits or Partzilla, and then put that part number into google..

The inner most bearing would be easy and cheap to machine out and fit a caged needle roller bearing, which I've done several times before on honda engines, but that sprocket flange is a problem at the other end. On a honda you can fit a common ball bearing race on that end, but not on the suzuki.. It does look like a repair or replace of the head is going to be the way to go. I'd clean it all up and go pick the brains of a competent engineer, he may be able to build the bearing surfaces up and machine them easier than you think.

Other than that, I see that both versions (different years) of head listed for your model,  use the same cam.

Each of the two head designs get used in several other years, but it's far from clear just quite all the small differences are. In these links you'll see they say which other model bikes each head fit, and you'll notice that they aren't just earlier or later consecutive years, they jump around a lot.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/11100-19B01?ref=64703b8d4d387f224d0394c7c7e590909bddd469

https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/11100-19B10?ref=64703b8d4d387f224d0394c7c7e590909bddd469

If this fuel gauge is an analogue, with a needle, then it's probably damped and so slow to move. You should get a test light or a small bulb, about two watts would be good, and use that to short the gauge wire to earth, but leave it on long enough to see if the needle works.

If the gauge is digital then it's possible that the ECU could be contributing to your problem, possibly, or in any case it could be a wire broken or shorted to earth.

It's hard to tell without looking at the bike, or a wiring diagram which I haven't been able to find, but the variable resistor in the tank could short towards earth potential for full or empty reading on the gauge. You really do need to get that tank unit out to be completely sure it's not the sender unit.

The lock detent I was looking at was just a bit of dark metal I think. Not white. Check for locking tabs on the retaining ring, then bigger screwdrivers/levers crossed and a steady pressure. Lube helps and lube it all when it goes back together.

I like the "Clydaho" too by the way..  Very good.

I'd warm it up and adjust the idle mixture and speed first, then see if it still does it after it's cooled off.

It might be too rich at idle when warm, and so have the speed wound up. Then when it's cold the rich mixture is just right and the wound in idle speed screw makes it race. Could be....

In the upper left of that photo, about 11 oclock, is that an indented sort of notch you have to overcome to get the ring to move ?

As far as I can see in that photo it should just turn, but a better lit photo might reveal something.. a lock tap perhaps, though that's not usual.

Two big screwdrivers normally get those undone. They can be tight though. Lube might help.

Lol...

You won't need luck.

Two screwdrivers crossed above the center of the unit, with their tips hooked in behind the lugs, and then both used to lever against the other so it turns the flange thingy.

Have you ascertained it is the sender unit faulty ?

When you put it back in, a smear of vaseline/petroleum jelly on the seal will make it go together real nice.

Well clean it, start it up and watch it while it's running for a few minutes. If oil starts appearing then that's your leak. If it doesn't leak go for a ten minute ride and recheck for oil leaking, if it's still no leak go for a half-hour ride.

Under that oil cooling pipe flange there will be a rubber O ring I'd think, or possibly a gasket. The oil filter will have a built in rubber ring for sealing so you could try turning that about a 1/8 turn if it's not already tight. The oil filter should seal at only hand tight, sort of wind it down till the rubber seal touches then about another half to one turn. If the filter was put on without a wipe of oil on it's sealing rubber it might have bunched up and not be sealing properly. If it is the filter leaking then you could undo it until the seal comes off the mating surface and then tighten it down hand tight again.

I think I'd just live with those tyres till I'd put some hours on the bike and made sure nothing more serious was wrong.

On that type you turn a big locking ring that holds the tank unit down. The rubber seal under it should be reusable.

Figure which wire on the tank unit is the gauge wire and short it to earth. The gauge should swing. Be careful not to try shorting the pump wire !

Here's the procedure for removing the tank unit.

Hisun..pdf

The oil's higher up the engine than the oil pipe, so it's possible that that oil leaked from the oil filter, or got there when the filter got changed.

It doesn't really look wet either, which would suggest it's not leaking now or recently.

I'd use some fuel and then the garden hose to wash it clean and then keep an eye on it, it may not leak at all, and if it does you will be able to see where it's come from if you look before it's spread the oil about.

Good plan Gw..

Has this started after the bike's been siting for a while getting the repairs done ? Is the fuel fresh ? Could moisture have condensed in the carb ?

Check the plug is clean and has a good blue spark, then undo the drain screw under the carb and make sure fuel keeps coming out at a good rate. Keep flowing fuel till you are sure the carb should be empty and make sure it doesn't stop delivering plenty of fuel. Catch the fuel and check there wasn't water in it. If there was water then clean the tank and test the bike again.

If it's getting plenty of fuel to and right through the carb then it's probably time to take the carb off and give it a good clean.

I usually start by taking the top cover off before taking the carb off the bike, and checking the diaphragm isn't split and that the slide needle hasn't come loose, or adjusting the needle (if the circumstances seem likely that it's in need of adjustment), but if the problem just arose then just that it's not jumping up and down, or dropped down through the slide. Then I'd remove the carb and strip it entirely down and clean it and reassemble it.

It's nice and warm here in N.Z, so I'd probably go for one of those things you put on the seat behind you in a bikini..