jung4g

For the last few weeks, I've been getting various diagcodes on a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 SP. Some of the throttle codes I saw: 520194-1, 520194-3, 520194-7 and the others popped up as well. Sometimes without issue, sometimes I'd be kicked into limp mode. Some of the time, I'd restart (not always easy to do, but that's a different thread and solution), but when I did get it going, they'd be gone and it'd drive fine. Totally intermittent. Here's the solution I had to all of them, as this machine shouldn't be having so many issues even though it has 800 hard miles of either plowing or cutting trails in Northern MN: 1. Stock Battery is tiny and crap. I swapped it out for a slightly larger AGM in the stock location (easy to swap if you crank the wheels out of the way and remove the coolant overflow. I did have to bend the stock battery retainer a bit for the new battery to fit, but that was 10 seconds with a vise and hammer. 2. I pulled the entire front cover/cowling off to get a clear picture of things, but you could do what I ended up doing with just the wire terminal cover off. The terminal block by the fuse holder has the main power coming in from the battery, and going out to the winch, the starter, etc. I think the most effective thing I did was to remove all of those wires, brush them with a stainless steel brush to remove oxidation, dirt, and corrosion, and then reinstalled those wires good and tight. Everything has been working better than it has it years since I did that. It seems the weak battery AND some voltage drop through bad connections wasn't supplying the juice needed for all systems and I kept getting codes and limp mode kicking in. I hope for you that a new battery for ~$45 off Amazon (way cheaper than my local stores) and maybe 90 minutes of just installing that and then cleaning the main connections up will solve those odd issues. I will say I checked all of the harness connections on the throttle, checked the throttle itself by removing it, adjust the idle up and down, and put a new air filter, and even tried the zip tie trick in the throttle switch to try to solve this along the journey, but none of those made a lick of difference. It was all the electrical connections.

Quick update on this in case it helps anyone... After removing the wiring on the terminal block, taking a stainless brush to them, and redoing that setup nice and snug, I was able to get the machine running right away. However, driving up from the frozen pond with it a bit later, it shut off on me, due to the fact I was driving on the old ignition switch as the new one arrived later yesterday. I was able to wiggle the wires around and get it home, but after putting the new switch in and finding that it was still intermittent, and pull the ignition switch plug apart and removed all of the wire terminals from it. I cleaned the dielectric off those with an air hose, scrubbed them the bit I could, and then carefully bent the inner portion that acts like a spring to maximize the connection as some were a big saggy. Note that I had that apart a few weeks ago as I found one of those wires had broken nearly through due to a bit of oxidation at the terminal (see the pic). I soldered and crimped it back it place and it was holding well. A small screwdriver or a terminal disassembly tool (like I use) made pulling the wires out very simple. Now it's working beautifully. Strongs stronger than it ever has. I'm 99% sure the worn terminals that I bent back and the broken wire were causing all of my starting issues after all of that. I'll keep the old ignition switch and starter solenoid I'd bought as backups. IMG_1077.HEIC

I use an older (2015) Noco battery charger that works on 6 or 12v, and has modes for different setups, including a maintain mode. To make it more likely that I'll plug the quad or whatever else in, I have these installed these quick connects on leads to the front grill guard, I have them on other vehicles as well is in the bed of my truck so I could actually charge/jump the quad when it's in the truck: https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Battery-Connect-Disconnect-Recovery/dp/B014FEV6EU/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=battery+fast+connect&qid=1610029637&s=automotive&sr=1-8 More expensive, but more uses and I don't need it there 100% of the time.

I know this is old, but figured to keep it alive since there isn't a solution stated yet and I've got and had the same issue on a 2017 Sportsman SP for a while. It hasn't seemed to effect how it drives, so I hadn't bothered with it, but I'm torn into the whole electrical system now with other issues. The plug to the display seems pretty stout overall, so I'm really guessing it's an intermittent connection somewhere to just the positive or ground around. I'm planning to redo those after brushing them well and adding additional runs for large gauge wire from the battery to the main junctions to decrease potential for voltage drop, as that can cause a lot of issues.

Yeah, it does click and usually it'll turn over. I ordered a new spark plug, solenoid, and ignition switch last night since the aftermarket parts are cheap and I can have them by the weekend to test. I pulled a few things apart last night, including the whole front cover, and plan to undo a bunch of the wiring clean terminals and reassemble when I get the new parts. I'm also planning to run supplemental grounds and postives from the battery to frame like I would do for car stereo installs to help maximize the potential of the electrical system. Electrical seems to be the overall issue whenever I've run into intermittent issues. Maybe that'll also help some diagcodes that recently popped up as well.

The quad has done this off and on, almost since new, but it's gotten worse this year. Sometimes if I freshly charge the battery, it'll work fine, others times that won't matter. Turning the key to on it sounds like it's connecting as I go to the start position, slightly before the full turn, but it's not like there is just a sweet spot to find, it's totally erratic. Now the battery is basically dead so I put a new, slightly bigger AGM battery in today to replace the factory one with all of 800 miles on it, but those have lots of plowing hours included. I was able to get it started once, but it still went into limp mode after just a few moments of driving it (that's another topic), so I put it back in the garage and started probing around. Now it doesn't even try to turn over. Is an ignition switch, the $18 shipped aftermarket variety on Amazon worth a shot? Or should I go straight for the starter? The new switch may not come for over a week, so I hate to just put my hopes in that if I'm missing something obvious. Fuses are good, so it's not something super obvious.