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My Suzuki LT185 didn't come with a battery from the factory (no electric start). I was wondering if I would need to add a battery if I wanted to install some of those light bars/pods or should I just wire it in to the headlight switch? Will the generator be able to put out enough juice to run the light bar? Also, is it normal for the headlight to get dim at idle, then brighter when driving? Never had a quad before with just a generator.
Hey yo quadsters, I have a question regarding CCA in batteries. My ATV is cold natured and it will start with my generic battery that's in it, (don't ask me now what battery I have in it cuz I'm at work,) but when I hook up an external battery storage unit (Beatit 1200Amps QDSP 1200A Peak 16500mAh 12V Portable Car Lithium Jump Starter) for quick jumps it fires so much faster. Which by the way is a bad ass accessory to have around. I keep the battery in the quad fully charged all the time. My question to the pros is how much difference does the CCA of a battery contribute to the quicker start?
Got a 04 Sportsman 500 that wasnt running- owner said it needed a stater and a new battery. It ran rough (been sitting out in the weather for a while). A friend and I started by adding a new battery and it would start barely with the choke and his hand over the air-filter. I decided to install the new battery in the holder on the side. we had it on the rack because the old on was still in the bike. I tried to be nifty by turning the battery to put the terminals in an easier spot to get to, but forgot to reverse the cables too. In a sentence, I reversed the positive and negative on the battery like a dummy. When we discovered my mistake and corrected it, we turned on the bike, but the display did not light up and the key did not turn on the starter. jumping the solenoid worked the starter, so we thought the solenoid just burned up when I reversed the pos and neg... new solenoid and no difference. what have I burned up? Also, the shifter does not seem to do anything in the trans. it slides back and forth like its stripped in the trans. any help would be appreciated!!
I think the biggest issue right now is the electrical.
The battery box on my machine kind of fell apart and I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else and what they did to rebuild the box.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
i am sure some one has switched from the dinky battery to a larger car car battery, so any advice? ive got enough bits and bobs on my atv that i feel i need to step up, i keep a float charger on it but i left it unplugged for about a week and it was dead and it a fairly new battery from advance auto, im probably gonna add a cb radio in the future and i think the only thin that has a constant draw is the clock in the dash and the memory for the stereo
2012 cf moto x5 500 lwb
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be.
It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
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