WPW
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I didn't know copart was into anything but automotive. I'm going to check them out. They have a depot 5 miles from where I live easy pickup. Thanks for the tip.
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Like Frank was saying lots of safety lock outs, parking brake, blade rotation, etc etc. Everything manufactured since the mid 80's is idiot proofed. Even the Troy Built rototiller. Most use a common wire color on the switches. So disconnecting that lead disables that particular switch. There will be some switches that need to be closed like the seat to operate. It's tedious but you'll get there.
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All the specs you need to repair one of these older machines. Coupled with advice from members maintaining my sportsman will be easier and more efficient. -
I've been using Dennis Kirk for years for atv, dirt bike, and snowmobile parts. In my opinion quality parts at reasonable prices. On a carb kit for my Polaris Sportsman I saved $50 off the factory parts. A quality part that fit perfectly.
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The last step of the project is a must. Use neverseeze.
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Sorry I forgot to mention step one. Spray the wd40 and pray first.
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Not always as simple as it appears. Old age and rust can complicate the situation. Take your time and if you snap a bolt don't panic. I've drilled and removed with an easy out. If that doesn't work you can weld then drill and tap. Good luck.
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I've been using a solar I got from JC Whitney 25 years ago. It's only 200ma but works fine as long as the battery is in good shape and has a full charge when stored.
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Lights are stock, 2 low beam 1 high on handlebars. They are switched separately. Disconnecting one low makes no difference. It appears that the stalling is caused by a sudden current draw. If engine is revved when turning on the lights you can then return to idle with them on. I can't find a test for the voltage regulator so I'll get a new one and hope for the best. Thanks for the input.
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Does anyone know how to test a voltage regulator for this machine? My clymer manual gives no specs at all. The bike is producing 14 volts with battery charged. Terminals and connections have been cleaned. When at an idle turning on the lights kills the engine. Revved it stays running and I can return to idle and now turn lights off and on as I please. I'm being led to the voltage regulator but would like to be able to test it to be sure. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
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25 years ago my boys got a Suzy 250 quad racer in rough shape. It had been sunk for days, frame bent etc. A lot of water clean up and a welder we got it going. Being a 2 stroke the engine work was minimal. We drove it until the piston blew a couple of years. Repaired the jug and piston, running great and it was stolen that night from our front yard. Never to be seen again. I've had ever since. Lots of fun and headaches.
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this ATV has been setting for 2years. I've rebuilt the carb and placed a new battery. When running at idle or fast idle engine stalls when the lights are turned on or placed in reverse. When viewing the voltage it remains at 14 volts until the engine stops. Any ideas, voltage reg, etc?
