MaxPax

spray it over with soapy water or water/dish-soap mix, after 30min you might see where the leak is and then you can fix it with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-Repair-Motorcycle-Tractor-Puncture/dp/B07MR5FX8M However, if it leaks between the tire and the rim, or around the stem, that would not work, best then would be to put a tube in it.

Carlisle A.C.T. I think are very good for the price, I'm very happy with mine.

about 0,5 bar

Hey all. Very good first experience here, got help directly with a lengthy prob. KLF300C 1991 with a hydraulic log wagon forwarding firewood...

mornin

Interesting isn't it that the topics that divide the population of our civilization just keeps stacking up. We have the environment, racial differences, sexual preferences, gender politics, immigration, and now a new one - pandemic or not. These ideas and the emotional involvement in them create but division, not unity which we sorely need in this time.

AFAIAC Pence is a traitor together with most other bought off politicians on this planet. Tyrants rule this Earth.

I checked, the brown wire was indeed shorted to ground. I pulled it out of the connector and the few minutes I let the bike running it seemed to run just fine. Before though, after changing the cdi box and stator, it seemed to run fine for about a day until it wonked out, so I am excited but a bit reserved about this. However, it's charging 14,5 volts on idle and 14,55 volts with half throttle. You sir might just deserve a bunch of free pizzas, if it stays fine now I will be a happy man with some extra parts laying around, like a fully working stator assembly haha. Question now, can I leave the brown wire out? The reverse light works and the stop switch works, seems there would be a reason for that wire to be there. Can it be disconnected without causing other problems down the line? Maybe the wisest thing to do is to find out where it grounds and fix it...

Thank you for your suggestions, sir. I will check later today when I come home from work. The regulator have six wires.

Even though the problem completely disappears when I disconnect the charge regulator?, maybe I was unclear, that is still the case. Bike runs fine with it disconnected but does not charge the battery at all obviously. If it would be the flywheel key that is compromised, I believe it would still be running wonky without the charge regulator...

Backstory: ATV Ran fine, once stopped in the forest and had to be towed back to my workshop. Found that the stator connector was melted together. Fixed that and it ran mostly fine but intermittently lost spark. Changed CDI box which fixed that problem. Ran fine for a year, but started to misfire more and more often until it did that most of the time. It's not really losing spark, it's firing when it's not supposed to, occasionally making the engine kick in the wrong direction if the revs are low enough. I found that disconnecting the charge regulator would make the problem disappear. I measured the regulator, one diode seemed bad so I got a new one. No change. I then bought another new CDI box and changed the stator and ignition sensor as well as the ignition coil to make sure everything in the ignition circuit was new. And now, it's still doing it. I'm leaning to a broken cable/connector somewhere but it seems illogical to me that it would spark when not supposed to if it were that. Any suggestions is very much appreciated!